The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks brake problems

O.K. so I have a 1964 C20 with a Eaton H052 rear end.
Here is my problem! I can not seem to bleed my brakes. I changed all my brake lines all new wheel cylinders all around, new brake hareware, new master cylinder. The entire system is NEW.
I starting bleeding the system but for the life of me could not get all the air out. The master cylinder was bench bleed until all air was out.
So, I decide to purchase the Phoenix Bleeding System. Upon using the system I can not force the fluid in, it would blow the fitting off the bleed screw( these was happening in both the rear wheels) so I was troubled. I removed the bleed screw to discover that there was almost no hole at all in both bleed screws. Manufacturing defect, I guess that is why I could not get the air out.
Now I install New bleed screws and I can not get the fluid to exit the master cylinder. If I remove the line from the master cylinder I can get a good flow.
I remove the master cylinder again and bench bleed for a second time, still I can not get the fluid to exit the master cylinder.
I read the manual and it states that the 1964 master cylinder is different that you need a special tool to pressure bleed. Could this system not be bleed with a Phoenix System?
Do I neeed to do something different? Man I am at witts end I want to finish this brake job so I can get plates and drive this thing.
Any help would be great.

Do you just have a low pedal but have some brakes? Adjust all of your shoes up tight, to the point you can't budge the wheel then test the pedal feel. If it's good, just back off the shoes until they lightly rub the drums. Many people don't adjust the brakes up properly and get this same scenerio,
Scott

had luck using a large syringe with a piece of vacuum hose about 2' long, put it over the bleeder screw, crack the screw open 1/4 turn and pull the syringe about halfway out and hold, with syringe pointed down the fluid will rise in the tube and show you
the bubbles and when they quit. tighten screw and on to the next wheel, check master cylinder frequently and refill, you can bleed brakes yourself using this technique....

Did you replace the rubber lines? Many times, the old ones are collapsed inwardly and won't pass a flow of brake fluid.

Is it possible your new MC doesn't have pressure valves to keep the pressure up in the lines? I think there's supposed to be around 10 lbs. Sometimes guys unknowingly get MCs for disk brake systems that don't need line pressure to keep the drum brake springs from pulling the shoes back too far. This can feel like air in the system. Just a thought.

Finally solved the problem.
It was costly in tools that is.
The 1964 master cylinder has to be pressure bled, the supplement states this.
So, I made my own pressure bleeder and BINGO all good.I also had to adjust my brake peddle travel.
My this was the most ****** brake job ever!