The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Aluminum vs Copper Radiator?

Is there an advantage to one over the other? I am running a 350 SBC in a '57 3100 as a cruiser that ends up sitting still for extended periods of time due to traffic [Woodward Dream Cruise]. Have not had any issues so far, but the orginal radiator is on its last leg with a missing over flow tube, and what appear to be small deposits on some of the vains of the radiator that I assume indicates microscopic leaks?

original is fine - weeping can be fixed, might just need the tanks resoldered, and the overflow is easy to replace - check a rad shop, should be cheaper to rebuild than buy new .... if yer sittin still for extended periods, save some gas, shut it off

Bill

Aluminum is cheaper to make, cheaper to ship, weighs less (but most of the weight is water, so the difference isn't that much).
Copper cools better.
Your choice.

I have had customs made in both Copper or Aluminum - it is really a preference. you have to go to a good radiator shop. I can hook you up with my guy in Green Bay if you want - does great work, good prices.

I personally like Aluminum

I was in the market for a replacement and was considering the aluminum until I came across an original one on Ebay that had been quad cored then the owner sold the truck. He paid well over three hundred to have the work done but I got it for $87. From what I've learned is that the original units work very well if it's in good condition and will also cool a small block with no problems.

Thanks guys! Sounds like I need to make a visit to a couple radiator places and see what they say. Should I pull the one I have and take with me? I live near Detroit, so you would think the Motor City should have a few qualified places....

yeah, around here if you drag it to a shop they'll test it in the dunk tank so you can see the bubbles, makes it easy for them to decide if it's worth just overhauling or it needs a recore

Bill

A leak test only shows integrity. It may have been badly repaired in the past, with tubes crimped shut, full of debris, etc.
I think there's a flow rate test (how much volume passes in X seconds), but even that doesn't guarantee the surface condition of the interior - where the heat transfers from the liquid to the tube wall.
Sometimes the choice comes down to: it is cheaper to do it right (new rad), or do it twice (repair, install, fail, repeat)?

I have the original 216 in my '53 3100 and need a radiator....would the aluminum do fine for just a weekend driver?

eightfan, either aluminum or copper would be fine

Great....thanks!

I know when I looked at rebuilding my orginal radiator, it was going to cost me as much to re-do it as it cost to purchase a Walker copper radiator.

I replaced my recored original radiator this last fall. It was recored back in 2000 and every year I would have to pull it out and reseal the top tank. It had very thin brass tanks that flexed each time it heated up. It would take about a year to cack the solder joint. Counting the first rebuild, and one repair, I could have bought a new one. The new one is aluminum and works great. It holds 14psi just fine, truck runs cooler then ever, and I don't have to worry about pulling it back out! Its a real treat pulling a radiator in a '37, so I hope this was the last time.

I bought a Afco brand radiator. One other thing, since I had to reroute the lower hose, the whole coolant system holds 1 gallon more then the old system did, I guess the longer hose and thick core is where its all at.

Joe

....shop wanted 542 to repair..bought a new for $250 a year ago.

I will not argue one way or the other as it depends on conditions and other variable. Engine, size, ect ect.

But when I ran my original in my 37 with a 350 set up it ran warm fairly qucik. My biggest problem was the engine sitting low in the frame compared to the radiator position. Well last year I had a leak on the top tank seam and put an aluminum in it. Any time I cut it off and walk in front of the truck it seems like there is twice the "heat" being expelled from the aluminum than with the old copper radiator.. which was a NEW core when I built it. So, take your choice?? I just know what I "feel".

I am currently putting a 305 in my 52 Panel and the engine sits "low" in it to. However, I have a new 4 row copper radiator for it and will see how it cools...but all in all that will not be apples to apples as the amount of air going in is different than the 37.... and the 37 has a hotter performace engine.

This is just my opinons and what I have observed.

I had mine recored locally with a 4 pass copper core w/original upper tank and frame for about 1/2 what i had priced a same capacity aftermarket aluminum for. And since it was built using the original mounts and upper tank, it fit perfectly and still looks original. Cools very well. Plus I supported a local business and it's USA built!

So the expectation should be that since the existing radiator does not profusely leak it can be recored, and that recoring should be less expensive than what it would be to purchase a new one? What do I look for when talking recore? I like the idea of supporting a local if not US business as I am sure that most replacement ones are from country C?!!!

... recore is when they use your top and bottom tank and the "core" is what goes between them.

Here's a link to an aluminum one on Ebay.
This one has a built in trans cooler for the same price and is advertised to handle up to 1000 hp.

Well, maybe I spoke too soon. The seller has yet to ship the radiator and has stopped communicating. If you ever come across cdunk907 selling anything avoid him like the plague! I canceled my payment and bought an aluminum replacement.

As rightly said, both of them are fine. The point to keep in mind is that the conductivity of the solder between the pipes and fins in a copper radiator is much less than in an aluminum radiator.

Got my 4 core aluminum from Jegs at a good price. 3 yrs of service and still happy.

the conductivity of the solder between the pipes and fins in a copper radiator is much less

Why?

Monster Cooling sells a two row replacement unit for $169 & a three row for $219.

I don't think there is much difference between alum and copper. However the copper mfgs I know about are all oldtime manufacturers selling a proven product (if new) as apposed to those that make the alum. The important issue to me would be the quality of the construction of the alum rad not should I get, alum or copper.
As I didn't know the quality of any of the alum mfgs I picked copper and bought from an old line rad mfg in Memphis, Walker Rads.

I took my original '56 radiator in to be eyeballed and it was flowing horrible, had a few weeping leaks, and overall looked sad. The cores were sets of plates lined up like an accordian, the edges are fluxed, then the whole deal is dipped in molten solder. Essentialy, once they get old and start to come apart they are trash.

I had mine recored with a single pass 3-tube copper core with vented fins that masively increased the cooling effectivity. It's rated to handle a 500hp SBC, and I can attest that when I was movin full loads (10K+ for a GVW of 21K) up a VERY steep hill all day my 270's temp never got any higher than it does when I'm just tooling around town.
Finding a good rad shop that does top work can be a challenge, but you can have an original looking rad that performs like a custom unit for about the same price or less. Research your local shops, THEN go see the ones with good repuations.

find out who the race crowd uses. They will tell you who the best local shop is

One thing that I see that has not been addressed here is be sure to use Distilled Water in Aluminum Radiators and the right type of Anti Freeze. I was told by the radiator manufacture to use a water wetter too.

A wetting agent for water is simply soap. Don't use too much or you'll be foaming from the mouth. lol

I noticed there is a place in Brighton, MI (south 1st street) that does this type of work.

I'm from Brighton. It was cool to see this company

I couldn't find the monster cooling radiator for $167/$219.

Is there a link?

Silly question... are radiators on Task Force interchangeable with same year passenger cars?

I went ahead with the aluminum unit I mentioned previously from Monster Cooling.

To cool my 30 over 400,i have a big block pontiac 455 in my 55-2 it cools it if you don't set to long in one place run's 180 other wise but i really don't like the way it fits ..all most cooked the 400 with the stock one i got out of a caprice ...know a guy runing a 400 in his 56 with a big block Chevelle that fits much better ,,but you can't find one around here in the junkyard .......guess it's best to just step up for a new one ...to do what ever it need's to do to get job done...

So I guess my question was not just silly about interchanging, but just down right dumb! Oh well!!

You are asking for information and/or advice. This is a good place for that. We all have opinions to provide.

I disagree with your statement about silly or dumb questions. Never feel that way.

OK guys, need some collective advice here.....

I was getting ready to drain my radiator and take it in to see what could be done as far as recoring, when a buddy stopped by and proclaimed that all I have is 'external electrolysis' and that there is no need to spend the money on any repair. Claims if I just pour some vinegar on the areas it will take the deposits off and I will be good to go. His says these are just a result of mineral deposits or whatever on the outside.... I have a couple pics posted on my link.

What should I do?

mmm I think yer bud is blowin smoke - it's possible the 'staining' is from over flows, but most likely from leaks under pressure, I'd take it to the shop and have them pressure test it and get their advice .... and skip the vinegar, it's extremely corrosive, it's not "CLR kitchen cleaner" - you could do as well to clean it off with a scrub brush and garden hose, but I'd count on it coming back in time

Bill

Ok, so I before I pulled the radiator I called two places in the Metro Detroit area to get an idea of what a recore would cost...WOW! $475 and $530. Oh and estimates on when they could have it done are 8 and 6 weeks respectively.

So, now I am thinking might at well just buy a new one and here is where I need some advice. What vedors are reputable? Will one from Jim Carter/ LMC/ Classic parts all be the same quality? I dont really like the look of the Aluminum that I have seen, and even those that are specific to my truck seem pricey. I dont want to skimp but this truck will never travel this far from home but will spend considerable time at low speed/idle. Thanks!

Just installed a new aluminum radiator. $185 for a two row unit with A/T cooler and shipping.

http://stores.ebay.com/PERFORMANCE-COOLING

Great radiator, fast shipping, and an excellent price. The upper hose connection was larger than my old one, but the parts store had a hose no problem.

I bought 2 row aluminum from Jegs, summit has the same thing. price at both`$169 works great.