The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Setting tape

Which side goes against the glass?

I bought me a basket case 52.
in the basket are new glass and setting tape ,

I noticed on one side of the setting tape ,
is kinda rubber or Cork like. and the other side has a clothe look,

So which side goes against the glass ?

thanks

If the glass channel filler (setting tape) is like the original tape, the soap-stoned side of the filler is on the outside. I'd guess that the cloth side goes towards the glass?

Wait to hear from someone who has more confidence in their answer.

Wait,? Well I couldn't wait.(I got bored).
Pretty much imposible (by hand) to but it in with the clothe side out, It wouldn't slide, Douh!.
I did get one glass Set. and screwed the other one up, I used some silicon spray I had around.. I think I'll redo,
and use the oil as per that Manuel link.(Thanks).

I am not real happy with the fitting of the New replacment glass.
that came in the Basket,
Seems, like it's cut a little small.
(I guess the chinese thrucks are a little smaller)

to leave alittle over hang to seal at the edge of the glass to the rubber, it just barely reach the front elbow curve of the frame.
even after tweeking frame.
I'll get more setting tape and do over.

Is there a better quality of glass available ?
where ?
i believe this stuff came from CP.

Every town of any size has a glass shop. They aren't cheap anymore but they are cheaper than having them shipped from a specialty supplier.

I had some cut from another glass. They gave me some setting tape but it was too thick for the channel. I ended up using an aged glass from a parts truck that was already set. But that's another story having nothing to do with this thread.

....well, I threw the setting tape in the trash can. I DID buy me a TUBE of Black Adhesive Caulking for about 12 bucks. Cut the tip to a BIG bead and using my caulking gun I really layed a line down in the frame. I mean I filled it up.
Next, I put the glsss in it and closed it. Then pulled the glass "back" a little to fit snug against the vertical strip.

Resist temptations to play with the adhesive that oozed out until the next day. Then trim with a razor blade and be proud of what a nice job you did.

Alvin, can you be specific as to brand and where you found it. I too found it impossible to use the tape on my vent windows.

Woody, I'll get the name off the tube. Its still in my caulking gun. I bought it at Advance Auto. I think its permatex but I'll be sure tomorrow. When you "lay it" in the channel you really have to "lay it in there". Don't try to do it with a small bead and do it two of three times....not the same. Lay it to it the very first time. It'll look messy as all get out but when you trim it the next day it will be oh so sweet.
Let you for sure tomorrow. One thing for sure is its listed as an "adhesive" not just a sealer!!

That sounds like the hot tip, Alvin.

Autozone sells a 3M Glazing urethane, not to be confused with silicon or other sealers.
Using it without the specific glass primer it will hold just fine,and as Alvin mentions it dries to almost solid rubber.
Make sure the glass and channel are as clean as possible before bonding.
(Tip: Wear rubber/latex gloves)
Give it 24hrs or so to cure before operating the windows.


I used a non original seal on my 50s frames but used urethane to secure the lower sash to the door glass. Worked like a charm!

Is this it?

Boy I wish I had known about this before I set my vent windows with silicone. It worked but what a mess to deal with.

I must of just got lucky when I did my windows. It was a pain, but once the setting tape was properly soaked things went together easily enough. One thing to note is that the setting tape comes in several thicknesses. The first time I tried to set the new window I cracked it due to the wrong thickness of tape. The local glass company was good about replaceing the window for free and gave me samples of the tape to find the right thickness. Once I found the correct thickness for the tape all the windows went in fairly quickly.

I don't doubt that a simple straight channel fit with the proper thickness of tape would be pretty simple but when I tried to use it to set my vent windows I spent a small fortune and hours of time buying tape (and asking for advice here) in various thicknesses and there ain't no way it would work.

This is probably the more the result of the glass being thicker than anything else but that doesn't change the fact that there was way in hades that thing was going together before I'd break the glass or bend the frame.

At least that's my story... YMMV

Yup! That'll work Woody,

BTW silcone's for sealing bathtubs and showers! (I hate the stuff!) :mad:

I fit automotive glass for a living and silicone contamination is by far the product that gives me most problems.

I used Permatex "made for the professionals"

its their Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant.
Item # on the tube is 81173

It worked well for me and really looks good after I trimed it out. Looked good with my black powder coated frames and new Steele Rubber.

Edit: its recommended for bonding and sealing glass, ceramic, painted and enameled surfaces, most plastics and get this, it says "including other silcone rubber"!!

Alvin, to be fair 90% of the stuff I'm working with is factory bonded glass.
Some well meaning folk may have had a go at some time trying to seal a water leak with silicone (bathroom) sealant.
There are specific products made as you mention,but I'm still not convinced,but that's just me!
If it works for you,that's fine.

In your application it's OK as you're not relying on the sealant for structural reasons.
The simple fact is most modern monocoque car bodies rely on bonded glass for structural integrity! (scary!)

The problem with silicone is it 'contaminates' the pinchweld,the very area I apply bond to.
Then the bond doesn't take,and causes failures.
I pefer to use urethane where possible as it dries to a more 'natural' rubber look,it's also a product I'm more familiar/comfortable working with.

Trust me, if I had known about the 3M stuff at the time I would have used it but it either wasn't available at the time or no one here suggested it when I brought it up a couple years ago.

LINK to that thread.

Jock, I truly understand your viewpoint. As my dadddy always said use the right tool (sealant) for the job... and each job may require a different tool. One of the reasons I love this site is for all the views and experiences we each share. I, as probably others, do not rely on the first comment as the "final answer". Thanks for your experience/comments/contributions.

Following Alvin's suggestion I also used silicone sealer and had the same experience as Woody. It was easy enough to clean off the glass but the stuff really stuck to the paint on the frames. It took a long time to get it off. Thankfully I only did one side at a time. On the second one I masked off all the at risk paint and it was pretty easy to clean up. I did the vent windows out of their frames or I probably would have gotten the sealer all over the new rubber seals too. There is a lot of extra room between the frame and the glass without the setting tape, some side to side but mostly front to back. I assembled my vent assemblies and measured exactly where the glass should sit to make the best seal with the rubber. Then I took them apart and siliconed the window in the frame, pulling them back the required amount. The method Alvin describes of using the entire assembly to lock the window in place sounds like a better solution if you can keep the excess silicone off the rubber parts.

Chuck

Chuck, the other beauty of urethane as opposed to silicone is unless you use the appropriate primer,it can be peeled off paintwork/trims after it dries.
Hence the reason I prefer it.
It's also paintshop 'friendly'
One downside is it contains Isocyanates so gloves are a must!

I'm glad you seem to have the problem licked though.