The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop torque tube conversion?

Is it possible to buy a kit to convert my torque tube into an open drive? I have a 49 1/2 ton gmc w/original rear end...thanks,sam.

The complete center section, ring & pinion, and the carrier housing from a 55-up rear end will bolt into the rear end housing to replace the torque tube gearset. You'll have to figure out a way to lock the pivots on the rear springs at the correct pinion angle.
Jerry

Jerry, I thought that only applied to 3/4 tons. Of course I am getting older and the memory isn't what it used to be.

I did what Jerry is talking about on my 52 panel. I cut the pivots off the rearend and got me a set of perches from the dodge/chrysler dealer and once I get the pinion angle where I want it I'll weld the perches to the axle. Good to go....however when you do this you may take a look at it and decide the rear end is not now centered in the fender opening as the rear housing will not be in the exact location....depends on the truck I guess.
Me personally I reversed my rear springs to put the spring center bolt more in the center. So, I doing this I put in new bushings/shackles/pivot pins. I am not finished with my panel yet but it looks like for me to be satisfied I now need to move it forward about an inch!

BUT.... if you weld or lock down the pivot points you can avoid all this..... I just love to type I guess!!!!

Thanks for the great feedback...I know just where a 55 is sitting in the junkyard, ill go next week and pull the chunk out of it...I just knew i could use something off that truck! thanks again,sam.

Classic Performance Products actually makes a kit that will "automatically" do this for you. The perches have offset holes in them so the axle is automatically center in the wheel opening. No spring to reverse, no alignment problems. Included in the kit are the perches, "U" bolts, bottom plates with shock attachment points and upper shock attachment plates. It's in their ad on page 34 half way down the right side of the page of the brand new copy of Custom Classic Trucks magazine.
www.classicperform.com or (800)822.7708

Or, just drill a hole in the Dodge perches that will let the axle tube line up in the right place. We used to put long spring perches on the race car with 5 or 6 holes in them so we could shorten up the wheelbase and get around the turns faster. Go through the tech inspection at the first of the season with the wheelbase set at the minimum length, then slide the rear end forward an inch at a time and install a shorter driveshaft. With an open-wheel car, it's hard to catch!
Jerry

I used a 1958 chevy truck pumkin (3rd member) in my open drive line conversion for the burb.If i remember correctly,you can use 1955 to 1962 3rd member.I put a t-5 coupled to the 3:90 gear set,pulls really nice.I had a buddy weld up my pivots on the original rear end housing.It's sitting in the stock position in relation to the rear fenders.

Tim

Alright I finally made it to the junk yard and bought a 62 3rd member... it bolts right up. I now have a t5 and the rear has a 390...I believe that should help me keep up with everyone on the road. Now to take it back apart and clean everything and replace the bearings and seals. Does anyone know where to get some reasonably priced bearings?

Thanks guys, I would never have been this far along without your help..
sam

Which bearings are you planning to change? If you disturb the running relationship of the gears by fooling around with the bearing fit, you're almost guaranteed to induce a gear whine. If they're not making noise, or there's excessive slack somewhere, leave well enough alone! Change the axle bearings and seals if you want to but that's all it's safe to do unless you have a LOT of experience building rear ends. I've been assembling rear axles for over 40 years, and I've only got about a 50% success rate with trying to install new bearings on a used gear set without creating unwanted noises.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry,I'm just looking to change the axle bearings and seals while I have the rear end apart. But the local parts house wants 82 bucks per bearing plus 26 bucks per seal. The bearings may have to wait at that price.
Thanks, Sam.

Here's the bearing- - - - -

http://frugalmechanic.com/auto-part/skf-r1502el--skf-r1502-el-cylindrical-roller-bearings

I'll look for a seal, or you can search the Rock Auto site. it looks like that bearing fits a BUNCH of vehicles, so no reason to get stuck by an "antique" parts supplier!

Edit: Check on a National oil seal, part # 414045. It looks like they're less than 20 bucks! Can't get the Rock Auto page to link, for some reason!
Jerry

Is there a way to convert the transmission or do you have to put a new one in?

You can convert an SM420 4-speed using parts from a bigger or later truck. I don't believe a 3-speed can be changed.

Thanks again Jerry, i'll check tomorrow to see who has the seals.
sam