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Joined: Dec 2006
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J
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Last night I was working on elongating the U-Bolt holes on my 1/2 axle so that it would fit into my 1 ton springs. Well I picked up a tapered stone bit from home depot and all it did was shrink and never even bit into the metal making it bigger. I was using a drill rather than a die grinder since I do not own one. What can I use in order to open up that hole? Would a dremel be better to use and what type of bit. Obviously the stone one did nothing, it was a gray stone, I have seen red ones and white ones, but this is an area which I know nothing about.

I tried the drill bit method, nothing. The only thing that some what worked was my torch but it made a rough mess that the stone could not even clean up.

Any advice would be great. Thanks

Last edited by Jackyl; 05/02/2010 4:28 AM.
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My first choice would be a milling machine and the appropriate size end mill.
Second choice is what they sometimes call a "West Virginia milling machine" also known as a file, a rat tail file in this case.

I'd be quite scared of using the torch to cut a front axle if I then planned to use the axle. eeeek

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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Although I will agree a mill would be the best choice, a drill can accomplish this task if you keep the rpms down. When you say elongating, you don't mean enlarging, correct? You are trying to make the holes oval so the narrower/wider u bolts will fit. How much do you need? 1/4? 3/8?

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'Bolter
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Go get a cheap (Harbor Freight) die grinder, a metal cutting bur, a long sleeved shirt and safety glasses and go to town,
Scott


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2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
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1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
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west virginia milling machine- that's funny. i will have to remember that one.

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You'll have a difficult time using a drill bit to move a hole if it still mostly overlaps the original. In a rigid setup like a milling machine it sometimes works if the drill is short/stiff, but freehand will be quite difficult if it even works. That's why my first choice would be a milling machine with end mill.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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Maybe I'm missing some details here, but is there a reason you're trying to use a 1/2 ton axle on a 1-ton truck? Trying to mix/match parts like that seems like a frustrating procedure at best, and possibly deadly dangerous. I'd reccomend using the right part for the job, rather than trying to force something to fit that's obviously not suited for the application.
Jerry


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J
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Well it is no longer a 1 ton truck it is now a 1/2 ton sized truck. I have already chopped 21in out of the frame and removed all of the normal 1 ton equipment and putting a 1/2 ton front end on it has been done before. It was done by elongating the bolt holes and putting the u-bolts through it. That is the reason why I am doing what I am doing.

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Can I be your life insurance beneficiary?
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by hoggyrubber
west virginia milling machine- that's funny. i will have to remember that one.

I'll be using mine today to elongate some hinge bolt holes....... grin


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Just so you know, in place of "West Virginia" you can substitute any state or country which suffers from a worse stereotype than your home state or country.

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Back to the comments about what I am doing, Jerry why is what I am doing that dangerous? I have been asking about this for over a year and nobody has said that it cannot be done. They have been very supportive about it. I thought hot rodding was creating something that you want using what means that you have. I have no money so I cannot replace it with a front clip or a mustang II setup, so alternatively I have selected to use the technology that existed in the 50s and copy it. The holes for the U-bolts are shy by 1/4in the entire size of the pad is the same as it was on the 1 ton. Could I replace the springs and put on the 1/2ton ones sure, but why I already have springs that are good.
To this point I do not see anything wrong with what has been done is being done. This isn't my first rod and it won't be my last. Granted I do not have a machine shop in my yard, I have the tools of a mechanic.

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J
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Changing the spring would do more good then just fitting right. The ride quality will vastly improve going from a 1 ton spring to a half ton. You might find the half tons are still to stiff and will need to soften them up some more.

I can see your problem, on one hand you have to open up the axle holes wider, on the other you have to change springs and hangers.
The axle seems like the logical choice, but in the end, its still going to be a 1 ton with a 1/2 to load limit.

I would really look into the spring change, I think you will like it better in the end.

If you still want the axle holes opened up, go get a carbide bur (rotary file) and chuck in your electric drill and have at it. It won't take long, just be sure to wear safety glasses.

Joe

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I'm not a big fan of the approach you've taken on the 1 ton demoted to 1/2 ton thing, but that's just my opinion.
However elongating the U-bolt holes 1/4" with a file should be just fine, provided you use some good hardened washers and heavy nuts like they'll sell you when you buy your new U-bolts.

If you've used a torch then depending on what was done I'd probably look for another axle.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
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Actually I was trying it to one hole and when I started to do it, the acetylene ran out so it did not even cut into it. Plus I talked to a shop this morning and they said that even if you did cut it it would have only impacted the metal within a 1/16 of what you hit and I know that I will remove more than that for the u bolts. When I have money I hope to replace the front end completely with a mustang ii setup, but for now it is to get it on the road to tool around.

As far as the 1 ton weight goes I will never carry anything in this again anyway. I am not worried about it, more just a once a month driver than a daily driver.

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Also I was planning on using all the nuts and washers that the 1 Ton had on it. They are in great shape.

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It's standard practice and highly recommended to replace spring/axle U-bolts and hardware whenever they are removed, for safety's sake they are not considered reusable.
http://www.eatonsprings.com/atqReinstallingUBolts.html

Any spring shop can make them for you if you take an old one in or have good measurements, they are not expensive.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
J
Wrench Fetcher
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Interesting read, I will have to find a spring shop, but good to know.


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