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#62594 07/05/2006 4:13 PM | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 80 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 80 | How do I remove the torque tube on my original drivetrain '51? | | |
#62595 07/05/2006 5:19 PM | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 80 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 80 | I am looking at pulling the tranny for cleaning and to replace the clutch, also I have new ring and pinion set for the rear end I will most likely take the axle to a shop to get that set up correctly. So right now I just wanted to remove the driveshaft but I didn't see how. | | |
#62596 07/05/2006 5:31 PM | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 80 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 80 | If I wanted to remove the trans without removing the tube and rear end is that possible? Would it involve removing the engine and pulling it out that way?
Thanks for the advice. | | |
#62597 07/05/2006 10:04 PM | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 324 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 324 | You can take the ball loose at the transmission and slide it back on the torque tube exposing the u-joints. disconnect the u-joint and then slide the yoke back. This is best done with the floor over the transmission removed from inside the cab. After you have the u-joint loose and the yoke slid to the rear you can jack the torque tube up to clear the transmission. The transmission can now be removed without removing the engine or the complete rear end assy. Good luck. Tom | | |
#62598 07/05/2006 10:56 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 50 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 50 | Blake - Just went through this myself, the procedure 235 recommends is correct but let me add a little safety caution. Before you loosen the u-joint and attempt to slide the yolk back have your jack in place and snugged up under the torque tube as you may need to take a little pressure off the yolk to slide it back. Once everything is clear you will jack the tube up until it clears the trans to allow removal. I had to jack the tube right up hard against the floor board and then some to get the tranny out. Unless you loosen the rear axle on the springs when you jack up the tube you will be building a lot of downward spring force in the tube and if your jack slips you are in trouble if you are under it or your fingers are in the wrong place. Suggest you put a safety chain around the tube and a rear crossmember tightening as you go as a safety precatuion. Once your tranny is out you will have to reverse the process to release the downward force before you attempt to remove the third member from the axle housing. I did mine on a lift so I didn't need to loosen the rear axle from the rear springs but if you are doing this on the ground it may be a necesity. Finally, it was mentioned you could remove the tube from the rear end, the tube is permanantly afixed to the third member, it can't be separated. When you go to the shop you will have 6 feet of tube with a pumkin on the end of it to work on. I too took mine in to a gear shop for conversion, suggest you get a copy of a manual on these trucks and review the procedure with your shop to ensure they understand how to deal with the drive shaft seals inside the torque tube, pinion removal procedure, etc. Hope this helps - Bug
1951 Chevrolet 3100 AD Pickup
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#62599 07/06/2006 2:35 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 50 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 50 | AD-52, Hey, no problem, learning these old trucks is not easy. I have found the best way to approach a job on these trucks is to buy a manual and study the procedure you want to accomplish, then, utilize the search feature on this web site and review past posts on the subject. After doing all that you should be able to tackle just about anything without getting in too much trouble. I seldom post questions on this site because there is such a wealth of knowlege already in the "bank" to review. I will offer a comment if I think I can aid someones project, especially if safety is an issue. Regarding removal of the tube, I was told by Patrick Dykes http://www.patricksantiquecars.com that the torque tube is affixed to the pumpkin at the factory during manufacturing and should never be removed as you will never get it put back together the way it was built... I suggest anyone considering changing rear end gears give Patrick a call and ask him to send a copy of his instructions he sends with his gear sets. After reviewing the procedure I elected to take mine to a shop but I took the instructuins along with Patrick's kit to review with the guys at the shop just to make sure they knew what they were getting into. Hope this helps. - Bug
1951 Chevrolet 3100 AD Pickup
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#62600 07/07/2006 6:22 AM | Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 236 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 236 | Well, while we are on the subject. Does the drive shaft have to be moved aft to pull out the torque tube seal so you can replace it with an Okie bushing? Glenn, | | |
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