The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk bench bleeding issue

i have a 52 1ton and am installing a double resevoir m/cylinder out of a 67 chev in the same spot down under the floor, i have bench bled the m/c my question is will the mc suck air back in with the lines and wheel cylinders empty the first time i bring the pedal up? i have had this apart a few times and am starting to wunder if i am crazy, any help and or suggestions would be appreciated thanks trying

I believe that it will, that's why bleeding the fluid is a two man job. With on guy pressing the pedal the other guy opens the bleed valve and shuts the valve when the pedal is down. Or I like to use a pressure bleeder, that way you have keep the master cyl full and one guy goes around and bleeds the wheel cyls. and job done.

I have a combo vac pump and brake bleeder it's a cheap one but it works so I bench bleed the master put the plugs in the holes mount it make up all my lines than right at the end take the plugs out and screw in my lines to the master keeping an eye on the fluid level than starting fom the longest line"rear" I vac at the wheel cly than do the other rear than go to the fronts and do the same. I also pressure bleed with help one of us will pump the pedel and the other will open and close the valves.Keep an eye on the fluid thru the whole thing


Pete

What order of bleeding do you do? I was also told to bleed the hydrovac too.Where on the hydrovac? I beleive you bleed the hydro first????? Then the brakes!!?? Help me if you can. I have a 51 2ton 6100 dually dump. I have a pressure bleeder too.

For what it's worth, here's how I would do it. You can re-use the m/cyl & yes it will suck air on the re-install. After everything is installed but before adding the NEW brake fluid,raise the rear end of the truck about 3 inches HIGHER than the front. Crack open each of the 2 REAR cyls, fill the resivoir to max & then let it sit overnite. Gravity will help push the air out of the longest of the lines (rear). Next day, have a buddy help with the bleed process starting from the L.R, R.R.,R.F.& L.F. last. Should be easy.

when you vaccum bleed can you do this with the lid off of the m/c?also when i tried to bleed today, when i would crack the rear bleeders the pedal would go to the floor. on the front it would not, iam begining to think i have a bad m/c although it is new

with the power can I don't know why your having so much troble.it's simple 1 man job, an cover has too be on the MC for pressure. your using a pressured up can on the M/C. I used a hand vaccum pump and never had a problem.with the dual mc do you have a porpurshio.n valve.don't know if I spelled that right ;but someone will get that right. hand vaccum pump no cover needed.just keep eye on fluid level

I leared that you start at the furthest cylinder from the master
and work towards it,the M/C.

Jeff

Get one of these...

You need a bigger hole in the floor, but bleeding brakes is simple with one. I've had a motive brake bleeder for years and they're an excellent tool.

There should be two bleeders on the hydrovac. Bleed the one on the control body first, then proceed to the one on the hydraulic cylinder. Bleed your wheel cylinders next, then return to the hydrovac and bleed it again in the same order as before. Then you should be done.

Jeff