The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Brake System Brass Blocks

Is there any reason why the brass interface blocks in a brake system can't be reused? I'm looking at mine and they look in good shape despite their age. I will be running new SS lines and wonder if I have to worry about getting a good mechanical seal if I don't change them out. In some connections it looks like its the little copper washers that provide the leak tight seal. Right?

Also, do any of you folks apply a sealant to the threads of the tube fittings going into these brass blocks?

Look at the seats inside the blocks. If they look good, you should have no problems.

I have re-used brass blocks on two restorations and have had no problems. On the first restoration, there were several leaks using new stainless steel lines/fittings. I found that the fittings had to be turned snug tight, loosened, and turned snug tight again (the tubing manufacturer informed me that a significant amount of tightening was necessary).

I used no sealant.

Ive reused them for many years & have never had a problem. The only time I get a leak is when I do my own double flares. Then I have to get on them pretty good to seal them like TC says.

I re-use the blocks, too. But the copper washers are readily available so I replace them. You are right about the copper washer making the seal where they are used.

Like stated above so long as the seats are good and the threads aren't stripped. I used a some carb. cleaner (soaked them for a few hours) and a cheap toothbrush to clean them up nice and pretty.

NO THREAD SEALANT on the threads!!! Unless it's a pipe thread.
For every 10 people that tell you to re-use the brass brake fittings, you will find one like me that believes that brake plumbing utilizing an inverted double-flare as a seal is a one shot deal, it’s not meant to be disassembled and reassembled. Question; can you change a brake line and not the brass fitting it attaches to??? Sure, it’s done every day in repair shops, and they get it sealed up most of the time. But sometimes, they can’t get a good seal. If you apply a little logic to it, it looks like this. The brass is soft, the steel lines once the double flare has been crushed is harder than the brass, therefore the inverted flare in the brass fitting will be crushed to conform to the steel line. Get an eye loop and look at the inverted flare closely then decide whether you want to reuse them. Once the double flare is crushed on those SS lines they’re very tough and the brass is going to be the only thing that is going to move when you make up the fitting. If they have already been crushed by the previous connections then you’re odds of getting a leak are pretty good.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I thought the SS lines came with a different angle on the flares. I have never used them but I remember this being talked about.

My 2 cents. What I've done with fair success in the past. I put a steel seat in a vice, then I take the S/S lines and tighten them right up, then I install the lines on the brass fitting on the truck. I really rather not use S/S Brake lines.

That is somewhat correct. Used to be that SS lines used a 37 degree single flare, instead of the 45 degree double flare. This had more to do with the SS line tending to crack if a double flare was formed. IIRC, AN fittings used the same flare (Someone correct me if I'm wrong on that). With the 37 degree falre, adapters would have to be used the allow them to work woth existing brake compnents. The DOT actually frowned on SS lines because of that. The newer SS lines are a different alloy, which can take a 45 degree double flare without cracking.
Personally, on a driver, regular steel lines work just fine. About the only line I would consider dong in SS would be the feul line, just due to the ethanol that's in todays gas.

When you stop to really think it through that makes total sense. It seems that once that inverted brass boss is crushed by the harder steel to make the initial seal, one would guess that the odds of repeating that effort and get lucky enough to obtain a second seal would really be like rolling the dice. The brass has moved and unless you really crank down on that connection the second time to move the steel in further you really risk stripping the threads on the brass fitting.

I think I'll switch out the brass blocks. I mean in sixty plus years how many times have these connections been messed with? It's no wonder that my brake system leaks so much. I'll put new blocks in and be done with the leak issue! I don't want to deal with this anymore. The only other thing I have to sort out is whether to go SS or regular carbon steel lines. Can I trust any of the brake line kits out there that the lines have been flared properly?

My 1957 Chevy parts manual shows that 55 to 57 Chevy passenger uses same part number brass brake line block as my 3/4 ton. Found them new at Danchuck a huge 55-57 repro store, I'm sure they are online. I keep one of their catalogs it's giant and a great reference book.

I tend to go along with what Bill posted earlier, unless you're going to polish up the lines for a show truck, I see no other reason to use them. I've you're really concerned about corrosion and want a nice polished line and one that is easy to work with then look into the Coopermetal lines that Grigg has been perusing. Both of these are to expensive for me at this stage of my life. I can’t see any need for anything other then the steel lines since most of the original lines that I’ve seen have lasted fifty or sixty years.
Are the preformed lines any good??? We all you can do is wait to hear from some of the guys that have used them. I wouldn’t be worried about the double flare being made correctly, that’s a piece of cake with the correct tools, whether the lines are bent to fit, now that’s another story. I suppose it depends on which vendor you end up using.
Replacing all of the brass is gonna run a couple hundred bucks but as far as I'm concerned, it's worth it to have a system that I know is going to be leak tight and trouble free for years to come.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny, my nephew just finished up a 37 pickup and while we would/could have bent the lines the owner said buy them pre-made. His money, no problem. He got a set from JimCarter and they literally fell right into place real nice. I can't say that is always the case but for this one it was nice.

I have not heard anyone say anything about the new steel lines some places are selling. Back about a year ago Advance Auto took out all the shiny steel lines and put in s supply of lines that have some kind of black paint/coating on them. They "say" its to reduce rusting and that it helps when bending them. Does anyone know of these besides me??
I have bought some of them and tried them. I don't see any improvement in bending them but I can see was to where it would help keep the line from rusting on the "outside". Most lines rust from the inside.... these black lines are suppose to be treated somehow to help keep rust down on the inside to. I'll have to check them out again and see how they are constructed.
In the end, there is many choices so its just up to us to do what we think suits our individual selfs. Me, I use the steel lines. I'lll let my posterity have the fun to change them out and learn something new in about another 50years

I bend and flare my own lines Alvin, but I'm sure Dave will appreciate hearing from someone that has bought pre-bent lines and was satisfied with the vendor.
I was and still am an advocate for saving your pennies and purchasing the best flaring tool you can afford. I've tried them all and the only one that I've found to be 100% repeatable is the Fedhill tool. http://www.fedhillusa.com/
Grigg here on the forum has since purchased one and has gone even further and bought the Coppernickle rolls in bulk from the UK. Last I heard from him he still has some left, Grigg???
We've already been thru the discussion on "my flaring tool is better than yours" but it’s my personal feeling that anyone that is serious about making up their own lines can search that thread out and make up their own mind. Unless of course they want to spend countless hours of frustration doing their own testing until they finally end up with a Fedhill flaring tool.

We haven't heard from anyone that has used Inline Tube yet. They are one of the major suppliers of pre-formed brake line products. http://www.inlinetube.com/
DG

I bought a kit of unbent tubes and fittings to do my '54 pick-up from Inline Tube. There was plenty there to do the truck. When I did the '54 Suburban I bought the tubes from NAPA.

I purchased a set from Inline for my 54 3100... Out of the six pieces only 2 worked... They were very helpful and they had me send back the ones that did not work along with my old ones... Called them yesterday and Chuck said they were done and was to be sent off... They have made new ones from my originals... Evidently my lines were different then 95% of trucks from that year...

Cletis, did the NAPA tubes work out ok for you and was the cost in the ball park with other vendors?

Yes, they worked out great. I was able to get stock lengths for some and had to shorten and reflare some. I'm not sure about costs. I'd have to dig through old receipts to compare.