The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop New MC in stock location

On my '50 3100, I'm installing a master cylinder and brake booster in the stock location and replacing the original transmission cross member with a tubular cross member from CPP.

Does anyone have pictures of this set up installed? The new x-member ends seem too square to fit properly in the original location. And it doesn't line up with any of the original holes. Same with the booster bracket. Is it supposed to line up with some of the original holes?

Does the x-member mount to the top or bottom of the frame rails?

Thanks in advance.
Red Green

Come on. Can't anyone help me out with this new transmission x-member installation?! I can't be the first to install one of these...

I think I've got the brake booster figured out.

ttt
Most of us can't afford the kit.

I did the install but don't have pictures. Basically, the old MC comes out, the new bracket and MC/Booster go in. The lower diagonal support bolts to the lower frame rail. Mine actually lined up with a rivet head which I ground out and replaced with a grade 8 bolt after deciding not to skip that piece of reinforcement.

It was a very easy install, running new lines and bleeding the master and new calipers etc... was much more of a pain.

The problem I ran into was that the booster interferred with the clutch arm, or visa versa. So I converted to a hydraulic clutch set up and now everything is peachy, my calf never gets tired and the truck shifts like a honda or chevy.

Fred T - that's funny because so far everyone else has been very good at spending my money on this project. And the part that I can't figure out only costs $59. All the other advice I've been getting is telling me to replace the whole driveline, just because the brake booster will fit better.

NM51 - Thanks for the input. I found some pictures on someone elses website and I think I have an idea of what you're describing. I think I've come to the conclusion that I have to wait until the engine goes back in so I can figure out the exact height and location of the new x-member.

Thanks again for the input.

RedGreen-

I don't think you'll have a problem with the new brakebooster/master install. However, unless you've got an automatic I think you might need to find a new clutch arm, line the bent ones I've heard people talk about on this site.

When I got my kit from CPP they told me it was for trucks with automatics only and wouldn't work on manual 'cause of the clutch arm. Also, I'm not sure if it would have hit the rear tranny support since the SM420 and cross member were gone before I put the booster/master in.

I´m going to face the same problem with my 41 Sedan soon. The bracket is only for an automatic setup.

I was thinking about 3 ways arround.

1. Cut the front portion of the bracket and the od pedal arm off and attach the rear portion with the booster and MC to an stock MC. or...

2. Attach only the 2 pedal bushings of the original MC to the bracket or...

3. Fabricate and weld an scond bushing for the clutch pedal to the bracket

Have not decided yet wich way to go.

Frank

Wow. I never thought a "conversion kit" for my vehicle would be so difficult to install in my vehicle.

So, the way I'm reading this, I need to go back to the original master cylinder and run the new disc brakes with no booster, or figure out how to rebuild the clutch arm?!

NM, how intensive was convert to a hydraulic clutch set up?

I've thought about the hdyroboost kit, but I don't have power steering so it would get very costly to install.

Hopefully I'll start installing some of it tonight so I can see where I stand and figure out what needs to be done.

i agree w/ nm
the brake set up install was pretty straight forward. the kit uses the same frame holes that are already there. the pedal aligns w/ the brake arm.
you will need to make a new hole for filling the resovoire as the old rubber cover hole is mute now. you'll need to weld a tin cover and use a seam sealer both top and bottom.
the easiest way to open the new resovoire is by inserting a screwdriver on the side of each of the two retaining hoops and pry the side away from the hole.
can't help you w/ the tranny mt.
Ps redgreen
not all of us CAN afford to do what we want.

I made my own brackets and installed a booster and dual res master but it's on a 1 1/2 ton, there's no clearance problems. I'm still using the drum/drum set-up so I went with a 70 Chevy master designed for the drum/drum truck. It works very well.
Scott

OK, so last question (on this topic, at least).

Where do I learn about converting to a hydraulic clutch?

Thanks.
Red Green

RedGreen ... did you get it installed?

I also would like some info on the hydraulic clutch.

chev235. I got the brake booster installed. I bought the booster and bracket from someone on this list who had already powder coated it. Because of this, I'll probably leave it like it is, but if it weren't I'd be cutting it apart and reworking it. It's pretty crooked.

But other than a couple of scraped knuckles, trying to fit nuts and bolts into tight spots where they don't belong, this part of the process went fairly smoothly. I still haven't tried to fit the cross member in yet. I have to get the engine and trans ready to reinstall before I'm ready for that.

http://community.webshots.com/user/RedGreen123


NM51... Can you expand on the hydraulic clutch conversion?

Hey Red Green,

I've been following your "problem" with the m/c cross member problem and am emailing you a couple suggestions and a picture. This may be the lesser of evils!

Dave

My recent brake install went pretty well, but it took a fair amount of fabrication to accomplish. I have installed 4 wheel disc brakes on my 51 half ton.

The hardest part involved making a new bracket for the Lincoln Mark V disc/disc master cylinder I used (1 1/16" bore?). I saw the bracket kits advertised in the magasines but I didn't like the looks of the rod end they used to attach the existing brake pedal to the master cylinder pushrod. I ended up modifying the existing master cylinder bracket to allow the Lincoln m/c to be directly behind the brake pedal, just like the stock set-up. I then used a 6" grade eight bolt (with the head cut off) screwed into the existing clevis rod end as the pushrod.

My driver's side floorboard was rusted out, so I welded in new metal from the toeboard to the front of the seat frame. I have an extra battery door that I will cut in above the master cylinder which will allow me to check and service the brakes easily because there is no room to remove the master cylinder lid curently.

I am running 78 Lincoln Mark V disc brakes on the back and CCP's stock spindle disc brake kit on the front, which use 70-77 Camaro rotors and calipers. I am using the stock Lincoln proportioning valve. I ran all new brake lines and new flex hoses. I can say that even without a booster the brakes on my pickup are EXCELLENT. With a pedal ratio of around 10:1 I have more than enough mechanical atvantage to produce enough pressure to lock the wheels with moderate effort. Pushing the pedal halfway down in its travel will result in maximum stopping power.

When I get the battery door cut in I will try to post some pics.