Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
1 members (Gray_Ghost),
79
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,024 Posts1,055,395 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | |
#60462 05/15/2006 3:11 AM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 63 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 63 | Hey everyone I have picked up a 283 and want to rebiuld it. I am looking to get the maximum gas mileage and reliability out of this 283. It has the double hump heads but needs a intake manifold and carb. What manifold, carb, cam etc. do you suggest? The truck will not be hauling any loads and will be a daily driver. I have never rebuilt a motor before. Should I try and tackle this myself or have someone rebuild the motor? I am having fun but am nervous about this part of the project. Have a terrific day and thanks, Wayne | | |
#60463 05/15/2006 5:54 PM | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | Whether you do it yourself or not would be determined by your abilities and/or experience and or availability to tools/shop. First get yourself a book like How to build a small block chevy. David Vizard writes great books. Well worth the money. Here is a link. http://www.themotorbookstore.com/chevy-small-block.html Double check the engine casting numbers to make sure you have a 283. Check the head castings to make sure you have a matched set. Find a machine shop that will spend a little time with you. You can rebuild your oil pump and run it in most cases (even though they are cheap to replace). I think I would rebuild it with the heads you have and drop an RV cam in it. If you are looking for mileage, keep the carb small (350 to 600cfm max.) Bigger is not always better. In your case I would stay small. Don't listen to the parts house guy who says his buddies friend runs a 750 cfm Demon on his and he has so much HP blah, blah blah. Maybe find an HEI ignition for it (although your stock points will probably work fine). A new HEI can be had for less than $150 from a warehouse supplier like PAW. If you don't have a stock manifold and carb, an edelbrock performer and an edelbrock Q-jet carb would be fine and probably run pretty close out of the box. Also, I wouldn't wast my money on forged pistons if you are replacing them. If you want to get mileage, cast pistons will be fine. Also keep in mind that the parts for the 283 are more expensive than a 350. If you think cast pistons aren't good enough, go with hyperutectic like Keith Black's. They can handle up to 400 or so horse. You won't be hitting that. That is why I said to save your money and get cast pistons. I would say htat dependability is great from the factory. So, if dependability and mileage were your goals, stick to stock and forget about all the horsepower "advice" you will get. Keep it simple, especially for your first build. Good luck, keep us posted. | | |
#60464 06/14/2006 2:17 AM | Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 17 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 17 | hey zb3 whats up ya this is wayne I have a 63 fleetside truck with a 283 in it.It is all stock with a 2 barrell in it I didn't rebuild it never had a rebuild on it.I paid 6000 for the truck It has 90000 original miles on it I drive it as much as I can that motor runs beautiful once I cleaned up the plugs and carburetor still strong for its age great pickup power for a stock motor 283.You might just live with stock on that rebuild. good luck. | | |
#60465 06/14/2006 3:12 AM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 510 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 510 | Simple and cheap: Edelbrock 2101 Performer intake manifold, 1403 carb (500 cfm, electric choke) Summit 1103 cam and lifter kit ($79 for the whole mess...can't beat that) and I'd echo the suggestion of running an HEI distributor...or at least a Pertronix Ignitor to replace the points.
As builder sez, cast pistons should be fine for a mild motor. Hardened valve seats would be a real good idea, too. If it were me, and I was gonna run the double-humps, I'd take them to a shop and have 'em checked for cracks, put in new valves, guides and springs as well as the hardened seats. That way I'd know that I had good stuff in the upper end of the motor.
I'd also go with a stock or high pressure (60 psi bypass) oil pump, but not a high-volume unless you plan to run a larger oil pan and enlarge the oil return galleys. (This really isn't needed for a street motor.)
Again, agreeing with Builder, I wouldn't recommend a lotta performance stuff, especially for a first rebuild and a street motor. The parts I've suggested are pretty mild, but reliable. When you've done this one, you can build up a killer motor for the next project. | | |
#60466 06/14/2006 3:19 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 63 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 63 | Hey everybody, thanks for the replies. I am going to follow your advice and keep this motor pretty much stock. I have been looking at the Edelbrock manifold and carb and you guys echoed that. I will have those double hump heads checked out for cracks and rebuilt. The motor also came with another set of heads with a triangle or pyramid on the ends. I was told they were an earlier model of performance heads by chevy but I do not know. If the double hump heads are cracked I will have those other heads checked out. Thanks for all replys and encouragement, Wayne | | |
#60467 06/14/2006 10:42 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | You have got some really good advice & sugestions already. I would like to add mine. I would pull the heads & pan & examine the cylinder walls & crank. If you can do a simple ring-valve job & freshen it up I would do it myself. If it needs complete rebuild with boreing & crank grinding I would send it out or get a new Goodwrench 350. It will be cheaper with better results. If it is in a 55-59 you will have to use a small dist. The HEI is to big for that model without denting in the firewall. Crane has a great electronic conversion kit for the window type dist. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
#60468 06/15/2006 2:21 AM | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | Double hump heads on a 283?
I'll admit its been years since I played with a 283 but I think those heads are wrong for that motor.
The valves are too big and the passages too large to achive high velocities. I would fear it will be sluggish and inefficient compared to running heads with smaller valves.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | |
#60469 06/15/2006 2:28 AM | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 226 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 226 | go to www.mortec.com and check out all ur casting numbers, and some sites will identify heads also by the humps, bumps, and triangles... just do casting number search for sbc, small block chevy
What it will say on my Tombstone: "Boy, that guy sure owed alotta people Money"
| | |
#60470 06/15/2006 3:34 AM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 510 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 510 | As I recall, "double humps" came with either 1.94 or 2.02 intake valves. Not sure about the exhausts, but I think the 1.94s had 1.50 exhaust and the 2.02s had 1.60s.
I think the heads with smaller valves would work on a 283...wasn't that what was used on the 57 "fuelie?"
If I'm mistaken, I'm sure someone will correct me. | | |
#60471 06/15/2006 6:27 PM | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | I think OldSub and Panel Boy are right in suggesting that the double humps may be wrong for your 283. The power pack heads would be a good choice. You might want to consider saving the hump heads, or sell them to help fund the build of the power packs. | | |
#60472 06/15/2006 7:18 PM | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Take fatweed's advice and check the casting #'s from your heads. There are a lot of so called "double hump" heads out there. Not all of them are the performance heads. There is also many misconceptions on what the casting mark actually looks like. I know of several local guys that have heads that have 2 humps on the casting mark, and claim that the have the "feulie" heads, but when the #'s were checked they were the standard heads. Just to throw in my 2 bits, I would suggest a 4 bbl. carb, spread bore perferably, for best economy and power. You'll be on the smaller primaries in normal driving, but still have the extra power in the secondaries when their nececcary (like passing, goin up steep hills, etc.).
Bill Burmeister | | |
#60473 06/15/2006 7:26 PM | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,438 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,438 | I'm running a wore out 283 with camel humps, edelbrock 2101 and 1606 carb.... it runs like a raped ape, but the gas mileage sucks.
If you go with a stock 4 barrel, get the "spread bore" type, and run a holley econo-4... they get decent gas mileage until you open the secondarys.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | |
#60474 06/16/2006 3:07 AM | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | Originally posted by ChevyAsylum: I think the heads with smaller valves would work on a 283...wasn't that what was used on the 57 "fuelie?" I think you are right, though its been a long time... Based on the description of what he wants to do, I would agree that the powerpak heads are a much better option. Back in the gas-rationing days of the 70's I put powerpak heads on a 350 trying to create an economy motor. Ended up with high compression economical motor that was very responsive but ran out of breath somewhere just past 5000 rpm. Great on the street, but not a drag racer car. That was one of the best running motors I've ever owned. If I wanted to build an economical daily street-drivable 283 I would use the powerpaks over the fuelie heads.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | |
#60475 06/16/2006 1:54 PM | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | From what I know, the power packs were used on fuelie cars in the late 50's. "57 had power packs. My 58 has the 58X power pack heads. Through the early sixties the power packs were still available. I have several sets. The local machine shop recommends them for small cube engines. | | |
#60476 06/16/2006 5:55 PM | Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 608 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 608 | ZB3 If you can get to them, Post the Casting #,s on here and I can tell you what those heads are from my Chart. Regards  | | |
| |