The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Rolled on paint

Anybody have any experience with rolled or brushed on paint? I've done this with a couple of older military trucks I had and it actually turned out great.

We are getting ready to paint our '54 3600 and I was thinking this might not be a bad way to do it. We are not looking for show quality and I like that it goes on thick. When I did the other trucks it, surprisingly, didn't leave any roller or brush marks. I just used spray cans to fill in and touch up the tight spots.

We are doing black, if that makes any difference. What do you think?

Google it & you find all kinds of info. I even seen a Corvette done in black & the guy was winning trophies w/it...Joe

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

If you nothing but time and patience you can indeed get a show car finish. It's not rocket science, just a LOT of work.

Wait for Maaco to put out a deal price and run it over to them.
I've seen some of the prices which doesn't go to much beyond the cost of paint.

Dan

I've heard some bad things about their paint fading and looking terrible in like 6 months. Is there any way you can bring them the paint you want to use?

If you have a compressor, get a sprayer from Harbor Freight this one works pretty well.

This one is better

I have a spray gun and compressor now, it's just a big mess and requires a lot more taping and cleanup. Just trying to think of other ways that might work.

A friend's dad told me that when they used to paint, they would get a bunch of guys with brushes and go like crazy then pull a couple of plug wires off and let the paint shake out. Coure that was on model A's etc.

Haha, I like that. That's the kind of tricks I like to hear.

A friend of mine back in college painted his '53 chevy with house paint and a whisk broom.

As far as a brush and roller goes you'll have to find a paint that does not want to dry fast because it's rough to maintain a wet edge.
I've brushed acrylic enamel on small stuff doing it fast but I'd never attempt a large area unless I could retard the dry time.

I had a car in the 80's with Maaco paint and it held up but I had trouble finding a match color to paint the fender I dinged.
I'm not pumping up Maaco, it's just an easy cheap way to get paint on something so it looks half decent and doesn't rust.
Dan

I rolled on Rustoleum 8 years ago. Full strength and right out of the can. I did not do any prep work. Just layed the paint over what was there. I just wanted the truck one color. I have not seen any rust through and the 'then rust' seems to be contained. I always thought that I could sand blast or somehow get that rustoleum off and repaint.

It now is dull and faded. If you go that route, I recommend you thin the paint. It will lay flat but you should put on a couple of coats.

works fine - best done on a warm day when it will flow well and cure fairly fast, although black will show up brush marks and footprints more than a lighter color

Bill

A little history: Ford brushed lacquer paint on the T & A Models (I couldn't say "T & A" models; cause too much excitement!)then buffed out the paint to a smooth surface. They brushed it on because spray guns hadn't been invented yet.
Now you can still do that today but the paint has to be dry (read HARD) if it's enamel; I'm not sure you can still buy lacquer nationwide due to VOC concerns but of course you would buff out the lacquer.
The problem with lacquer is you can't wipe it down with just any solvent because it will dissolve even after it's dry; enamel will too but you need some pretty hot (MEK) stuff to do that. Mineral spirits or lacquer thinner usually doesn't do that to enamel.
Brushing has always been an acceptable method to paint military vehicles when spray equipment is unavailable or other good reason.

There was an article last year (?) in either Hot Rod or Rod & Custom about rolling on rustoleum. The trick was to thin the heck out of the paint and have a TON of patience.

I remember reading that article Desert_buick. TI remember them talking about how labor intensive it was too. Cost effective but not time effective.

i've been painting my truck with rolled on epoxy primer. i reduce it and use a foam roller. it takes 3-4 coats but the reduced primer gets into tight places to help prevent the reoccurance of rust.

it looks very good in my opinion. i dont think you can tell its been rolled on.

i plan on rolling a single stage/industial paint when i'm done with the primer. the same way, with reducer.

Bugs can be a problem

yep. i just pic them out. sand the spot and touch it up.

Here's another web site that talks about it.

Fiberglass boat restorers use either a one or two part epoxy paint and a roll and tip (brush) technique. Comes out looking better than the original gel coat IMO. Search this site if you are interested.

http://plasticclassicforum.com/index.php