The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
5 members (Gdads51, Rusty Heaps, Wheelie, Bill Hanlon, Otto Skorzeny), 67 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,054
Posts1,055,782
Members48,426
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 127
W
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
W Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 127
Hey guys, I'd like to remove the hubs from my drums. I don't see any rivits holding them together, and was wondering how to do it. Rather than beating on them and breaking something I thought I'd ask the experts! Thanks...Jeff


Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
Without seeing how they are put together, I can only make a guess at what you need to do. There's a possibility that you may have to press out the wheel studs to remove the drum. Some are held on that way.


Bill Burmeister
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 127
W
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
W Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 127
Thanks longbox, I hadn't considered that.


Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 788
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 788
you can also whack them out with a hammer. put the nuts on unil they are flush with the top of the stud, remeber flush so when you whack it with the hammer you are hitting them both squarely athe same time this way you do not screw up the threads on either one as you have to take the nut off to get it apart
ron

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
If you do go the hammer route, use a brass hammer. A steel hammer, even if you put the nuts on, may damage the threads.


Bill Burmeister
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,203
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,203
Hold the softer hammer on the studs and hit it with a bigger hammer. Joe

Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 127
W
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
W Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 127
Got the hubs apart today with a press. Gave that chi-com press quite a workout. Glad I didn't have to hammer them, cause they were tight! Thanks for all the tips....BTW, Joe H got any pics of that 3 carb setup? Does it perform good? I'm putting a 250 in my 40 and just picked up an Offy intake with 3 carbs, just wondering what to expect.


Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 431
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 431
great tips! flush nuts, brass intermediate. i just ruined some threads on something else by non-flush, steel hammer method

Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 788
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 788
you can always make a few different drivers for removing these kind of studs and for strg ends Take about a 2 or 3" section of 1" hex and drill it and tap it about 1/2" deep with corresponding thread and put it on until it bottoms and then give it a good whack with a hammer,done
there are so many cheap tools out there now albeit"china" and if they are avail locally you can buy them. lots of them don't last that long, so they are ok for home use as you may mever use them again
ron

Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 431
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 431
i follow you padre if i think 1" square or round, but, 1" hex? what's that?

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
All hex nuts and hex headed bolts come from hex bar stock. One of my friends has a machine shop with a number of automatic screw machines and has hex bar drop offs from 3/16 to 2.5 inches in brass, aluminum, steel, and stainless. The drop off is the last bit of bar that won't chuck up in the collet and feed so it is scrap. I get several of each size from him and use my lathe to make bolts not readily available from most fastener places; stuff like some convertible top bolts or bolts with a long shank and just a few threads on the end, or something as common as hood arm shoulder bolts.


Evan
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
G
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
G Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
What was available would be my guess. Anything you can drill and tap would be ok. The hex might be easier to thread on but I doubt it.

Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 319
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 319
I beg to differ, coilover. While large hex nuts and special bolts certainly are made from hex stock, most standard bolts and screws are made from round stock and "cold headed"...a forging process that makes a strong, accurate, CHEAP head (hex, socket, phillips, countersunk, etc.). It's all about mass production and minimizing waste.


If you can't fix it with a hammer and screwdriver, you need a bigger hammer.
1965 Chevy C10

Moderated by  Fibonachu, KCMongo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0