The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts '59 Viking 40 Rear Axle Seal

While going after a load of mulch, my brakes failed. After having it towed (by a wrecker) home, I decided to investigate a suspected leaking wheel cylinder.
I pulled the drum off of my right rear to work on the wheel cylinders (there's two) and found the entire brake assembly almost completely caked in grease. I think that it's safe to assume that my outer axle seal is leaking. I searched this topic in the forums to no avail, and don't have a book that covers this axle. Can someone enlighten me about what all is involved to replace this seal?

FYI: 1959 1 1/2 ton single speed rear end, with 15" drums.

Thanks

John

I would say inner seal, your outer seal leaking would throw grease on your wheel not inside the drum.

the trucks and trailers I've worked on you take a soft punch and tap the inner bearing from the outer side that will push the seal out.becareful not to damage your bearing.

If your shoes are grease soaked you would be best to replace them

I understand what you are saying, but I am not that far along yet. I have the drum off, and removed the shoes and wheel cylinders. I suspect that I will need to remove the end cap (it's bolted on) and then do I need to pull the axle, or will the hub come off without removing the axle?
You wouldn't happen to know of a drawing, or picture online that I could look at for a better understanding of this. So far, I have never tore into a rear axle larger than a 1/2 ton.

Thanks

John

Hey John,
It's sorta like pulling apart a front hub but with an axle in it. Pull the cover or axle bolts from the end of the hub. Remove the cover and/or axle (depending on the set-up). There will be a double nut set up with a locking tab in between. Find the bent over tab of the locking ring and straighten it away from the nut. Remove the outer nut, then the lock mechanism and then the inner nut. Now it's free from the axle tube. Sometimes the inner bearing likes to stick so it may need persuation. Try to find a number on the seal before removing it so it can be cross referenced to modern part numbers. Most places (older places) should have it in stock.
Good luck,
Scott

I removed the end cap and all I could see was the end of the axle. It did have a threaded hole, so I guess the next thing will be to get a slide hammer type puller, and try and pull it out. Is there anything that needs to be loosened, or unbolted before I do this?

Tomorrow, I will try and get to the local library and see if they have a manual with illustrations.

Thanks

John

Hy J Lucas, according to my Canadian parts book, the O.E.M. p/n is 3750867 = Napa p/n NOS31870 $29.99, hope that helps.

Just put a bolt in it and pull it out, it's just sitting in the hole,
Scott

Thanks Scott, I will do that tonight.

John

Just like you said Scott, it pulled right out. Inside there is a lock nut that looks like I can remove with a spanner wrench, or maybe a drift punch. I did not go any further, as I am doing this outside in the driveway, and they are talking chances of rain for the next two days. Right now, I put the cap back on (less the axle) to contain the rear end grease. Thursday, or Friday when the weather improves I will continue.
In the mean time, I will get my brake shoes relined, and kits ordered for the wheel cylinders. Is it safe to assume that when I remove that lock nut, the wheel hub will pull off like a front wheel hub? Then I can drive out the axle seal, and hopefully match up the numbers at NAPA.

John

go back to 48bt post, you should have 2 nuts an outer nut,lock ring, inner nut. lock ring should have tabs folded over both inner and outer nut, use screwdriver to straighten tabs over outer nut then you can loosen it once you get outer nut off you should be able to slide lock ring off axle tube then loosen inner nut. then you cn slide off the hub assembly.