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| | | Forums66 Topics128,161 Posts1,056,922 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 21 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 21 | Hello fellow bolters! I have a 59' Apache and it is mostly original and I was wondering if keeping (and rebuilding) the original style brakes would be worth the extra long stop. I want the truck to ride original but is this a bad idea?
Yes this is my truck, No I wont help you move
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,554 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,554 | I am a big fan of disc brakes and any other performance upgrades. In other words I am an old hot rodder.I would not consider telling you or anyone else what to do with their truck.Its your truck,and as long as the upgrades or lack of make you happy,thats what its all about. I have two trucks,a 1955 and a 1965 the 55 has a 350 V/8, and the 65 has a 500 cu.in. Caddy V/8.Just the way I like them,however when I go to a show I enjoy looking at the stock trucks too. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | These Trucks are heavy metal. And with a bigger engine or a fast driver or freeway driving I would put on a disc kit. You get the good bearings with it too. I like power steering and disc brakes for sure. I recommend you put on the under floor power brake with dual master cyl and booster, the one that uses your stock brake arm. It will look plenty stock with these upgrades, Safer and easier to drive. On more thing: seat belts with shoulder strap. Mid 80's Chevy truck, easy to install. This stuff will be $600-$700 total. Bartamos
Last edited by bartamos; 07/20/2009 8:14 PM.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | ODD_Bolt, I'd go with discs except for the fact that most kits are 5 lug, then you'de have mismatched rims front to back. Also depending on the wheels you are running they may interfere with the caliper. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 21 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 21 | Thanks for the input! I will do some research on disc convertions. =)
Yes this is my truck, No I wont help you move
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | I would be more concerned with a dual master cylinder upgrade. Even 4 drums set up properly will work well. Certainly disc brakes have more stopping power, but most people don't haul the loads their truck has for the previous 30-50 years of its life. I like disc brakes also, but I have no problem with drums either. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | I'm with Builder on this one. Drum brakes, properly maintained, are as good as discs for quick stops (I mean, I can make my new radials screech in protest, how much more do I need?) Unless you're planning to haul heavy loads or tow a trailer, drums are perfectly fine. It's true that prolonged use of drums (like braking a heavy load down a long grade) will create heat fade but again, it all depends on how you intend to use the truck and most of us have gearboxes to help with that. Discs are better in the rain also, but not many guys who've done any rust repair are real anxious to drive around in the rain.
Just my .02 cents worth and I'm sure there are those who disagree. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,082 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,082 | i installed a kit from performanceonlne.com in my 57. 7 inch booster with dual master and 5 lug front disc with newer style roller bearings. http://www.performanceonline.com/store/customer/home.php?cat=1061you can also get the 6 lug version. it bolts directly, (with their supplied mounting bracket), to the original under the floor location, utilizing the original pedal. although i ran into some install problems, like anything else, when it was done i am 100% happy with the results. no more 2 foot stopping. LOL. stops as good as my 2003 s-10. http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/...00/?action=view¤t=DSC01539.jpgleonard | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 549 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 549 | I would be more concerned with a dual master cylinder upgrade. Even 4 drums set up properly will work well. Certainly disc brakes have more stopping power, but most people don't haul the loads their truck has for the previous 30-50 years of its life. I like disc brakes also, but I have no problem with drums either. I agree. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I suppose the real question would be this, What are your plans for the truck? Occasional weekend cruiser/show truck? Daily driver? Working truck? All of these should be taken into account before you jump into any conversion. A cruiser or show truck, especially one that is entered into a stock class could get away with the drums and single master cylinder. A daily driver or work truck would certainly benefit with a dual/dual boosted master, and/or the front disk conversion. Same goes for a non-stock cruiser/show truck. Keep in mind, some disk conversions will not work with the stock wheels, as the caliper hits in the wheel. Before anyone asks, I kept mine with a stock rebiuld of the brakes. This was namely due to 2 reasons. 1 was cost, as I was on a somewhat tight budget at the time I did the brake rebuild. The second was that at the time, the 6 lug disk conversion was not available, and I did not want mismatched wheels or to swap the rearend. It does stop very well, even with a load, and is used as a daily driver. I do have to plan stops, and I also use compression braking to slow it down. However, if I were to do it over, it would get a dula boosted master cylinder, as well as a 4 wheel disk conversion. I would fab my own however, using late model Silverado parts, which has larger disks and calipers than the aftermarket kits.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | I suppose the real question would be this, What are your plans for the truck? As far as I'm concerned this is the first question. The decision regarding what brake choice is best for you really starts with how you plan to use the truck.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 841 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 841 | shhhh, be quiet. my trucks all have drum brakes and single master cyl. they all haul heavy loads and pull trailers with out any planned stops. please don't let them know they need this $700 upgrade, they were happy with the $2 wheel cyl rebuild kits and $10 master cyl kit. if they read this thread they will be so PO'ed.  | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 393 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 393 | Is it necessary to put in a booster on the master for a disk brake system? I've updated to a dual and rebuilt the Huck brakes on my '47 1/2 ton and it stops well. But I'm thinking of one of the disk set ups. I realize I would need a different master and add proportioning and residual valves but I like being able to check the master level through the floor. My truck is lower and it would be very difficult to check the level of the master with the 'finger check' - I would have to jack the truck up at all 4 corners to get under it. A non-power disk system would be better if it works.
It's a small world, but I wouldn't want to paint it.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 | A booster is not a neccessity. It merely allows for the driver to use less effort when applying the brakes. I built my old Ford '27 Roadster Pickup using a newer 'vette master cylinder without a booster, It is running front discs and rear drums. The following link is to CH Topping Performance Brakes. This guy is an expert on all things brake related and my experience has been that he freely shares information. http://www.chtopping.com/Home/index.htmlJohn
Last edited by Hot Rod John; 07/21/2009 1:05 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 21 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 21 | well put, I think a new master cylinder is in order and four wheel drums all around! haha.
Yes this is my truck, No I wont help you move
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | I can't see any reason to regret that choice Odd_Bolt. And you get to save a ton of money while you're at it. Let us know how it goes. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | A booster is not a neccessity. It merely allows for the driver to use less effort when applying the brakes. I'll agree to that to a point. With a lighter vehicle, or one with large disks (like a race car) you can get away with it. But given experiences I've had with non-boosted disks in full size trucks, I would strongly reccomend using a booster.
Bill Burmeister | | |
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