The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Our second ride raised many questions...any advie

My wife and I took the old truck to HD this morniing to pick up some plants for the garden.

On the way back I stopped for gas and then couldn't get her to turn over. Dead battery again. I called my son who, when he stopped laughing, came up to give us a jump. It was a little tricky with the 12 volt jump but everything seems to be ok now.

There were 2 things that puzzled me

1 The directionals stopped working but then started again later with no intervention from me.

2 When I pushed her away from the pumps I could hardly get her to move. A guy came and helpd me but even with the slight decline we could only move her just enough to get out of the way.

When I got home I cleaned the battery terminal which was all oxidized and made a felt washer coated with petroleum jelly and covered the terminal with the same after installing the cable. I have started and re started several times with no trouble.

I had to re adjust the brakes because they were so tight I could barely move the wheels when I jacked her up. The brake pedal was hard as a rock.

I have never heard of brakes getting tighter after a first ride only looser. There are no self adjusters on these brakes. Anyone have this issue ever??

Oh and my new passenger side window has a crack from front to back that looks like a graph of the economic down turn. I chipped it when I installed it. Didn't take long to come back and bite me. :mad:

edge chips on glass always break, shoulda not used it

when it appears you have a dead battery the first thing to do is smuck the terminals with a rock in a turning direction - bad connection will usually be fixed for the moment

have you put new brake hoses on front and back? what you describe is exactly what can happen when a hose starts to break down inside, the lining collapses and prevents fluid return but allows the next push to increase pressure, eventually locking up brakes ... otherwise maybe you had them adjusted too tight to begin with and the heat expanded everything, including the fluid

Bill

IMHO if you got it looking good that is 99% of the goal. You got yours looking good, shouldn't take a lot to get her running well.

You just didn't have enough free play in your brakes. When they heat up the fluid expands and starts applying the brakes. Then they really heat up. If you have a pressure switch for your brake lights, more than likely they stayed on the whole trip, draining your battery. Back your brake adjustment off a couple of clicks and try again,
Scott

I think you guys are right. I backed off the adjusters and went for another ride. It seems much better (the whole brake system is new, lines, cylinders, hoses, shoes). I never did this extensive a brake job before. I adjusted the way I always do so that there is a little drag on the wheels when spun by hand. When I jacked her up today I couldn't even move the wheels. I backe off the adjustment alot.

I think the battery issue is fixed. If I start the truck and disconnect the battery there is essentially no effect on the engine, If I turn the head lights on the truck will stall but I think that might be the belt. The generator checked out perfectly by a reputable shop in town.

I have started and restarted and driven a few times since I coated the terminals with no problem. I will keep testing and see if I need a new one.

Funny this battery has started the truck dozens of times just hot wired to the starter and coil. It seems funny I suddenly have a corrosion issue immediately after installing the harness. I cleaned the terminal just a week ago for the same issue but I did not coat it. My father always coated battery terminals...I shoulda listened to my old man.

Rich

PS Bill, I did think of replacing the glass but it was installed when I chipped it and I was too lazy, impatient to replace it then. Oh well. I'd like to say I wont do that again .... but I probably will.

Rich

do you have an adjustable voltage regulator? check the voltage going to the battery. corrosion is usually caused by too much.

Monster,

The VR is the original. How do I tell if it is adjustable?
If it is what should the output be?

Thanks
Rich

Rich,

When adjusting brake shoes on a 1953 system, follow the procedure found in the 1954 Shop Manual. You adjust the shoes until they just start to rub - I adjust them slowing tighter until they smoothly lock-up (this makes sure the shoes are aligned). Then, I back off the adjustment until it just barely rubs, while spinning the wheel. Then I back off 4-7 clicks. On earlier huck (dual servo) brake systems, I think backing off 4 clicks was recommended.

If you are willing/able to fiddle around with the voltage regulator, it looks like the battery charging rate is between 7.0-7.7 volts. Once again, the 1954 Shop manual should also apply to your truck (1953 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manuals seem hard to find).

Regarding corrosion on battery terminals and grounding location, Vaseline and dielectric greases will help with corrosion but do not necessarily help with conductivity. I like to use a conduction ant-oxidant grease such as Kopr-Shield or NAPA equivalent (see below).

Tim

Description of NAPA product:

(Conductive) Anti-Seize Compound & Lubricant, 4 oz

NAPA Part: BK 7652569
Product Line: Balkamp

Features_&_Benefits

Premium Quality Copper Anti-Seize & Thread Lubricant That May Be Used to Prevent Seizing, Corrosion & Galling Where High Temperature Conditions Exist, Contains High Percentage Of Micro-Fine Copper Flakes, Provides Good Electrical Conductivity

Old time trick for hard starting 6 volt system is to install an 8 volt battery. You can buy them at any farm store. Makes the starter spin faster but you don't have to change any bulbs or fuses.

...although you will need to increase the output of the regulator to 8V.

Free travel,versus free play,there is a difference.

i put a 12v system in when i redid my wiring
it solves all of the cranking issues. also
if you get vary far from home a 6v battery
is hard to find advance usually has one if
you are lucky the 8v jobs are harder to find.
you can still swap over to 12 with the 6v harness. philip

All the old Delco regulators are adjustable. The early ones didn't have adjustment screws but they were adjustable.

If it's adjustable it will have a screw that you turn for more or less. I agree with 7.0 -7.7 volts. If it's not adjustable find out how much you are getting out of it. If you need one I have a couple laying around for shipping cost.

Not to be dumb but I have never tested a VR before.

How do I do it and what tool do I use?

Thanks for all the advice guys. Brakes seem very good now
Rich

oops....never mind


Tim sent me everything I need in a link.

Thanks a million Tim.

Please post your electrical questions separately in the Electrical Bay from now on. Thanks.

Sorry Cletis..I think I created a little "thread creep"
Rich

I am no brake expert, but isn't there a valve in the master cylinder that can cause the brake system to build up pressure if the pedal linkage is not adjusted properly? I would check that adjustment with the manual instructions as well.