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#542820 06/02/2009 2:18 AM
Joined: Aug 2007
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as you can see in the picture the ones I have are broken. Im not sure if they are repairable (should I try closing the gap and welding it back together?) or if I should just replace them.

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
I'm not sure that shackle exention should be there. It almost looks like that's what broke the bracket,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
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They look original off a 3/4 ton frame. I sent you a message about the ones I have. Here is the assembly line manual page for the 3/4 ton... Manual

Joined: Aug 2005
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They are original to your truck. I see these on ebay quite often.

Bruce


My Trucks
Stuff I Collect
If it doesn't matter if you win or loose.......why do they keep score?
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It looks like the lock /wedge bolt was way over tight, never under estimate the power of the inclined plane.

Last edited by T-RUCK; 06/02/2009 12:57 PM.
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Thanks guys, I have a used set coming soon. Aside from having to remove the rivets, will this be hard project or is replacing these pretty easy?

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Pretty Straight forward.

Just grind out the old rivets and replace with some Grade 8 nuts & bolts. Thats how we did our replacement shock tower.

cshamel #543623 06/04/2009 11:11 PM
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Thanks, I figured it wasn't too hard but I never know what surprises I will run into. I already had some fun with rivets on this truck, I had to move the rear crossmember back about 3 inches to make room for my gas tank that I mounted behind the rear axle. Rivets arn't too bad, I first use a cutoff wheel and cut a X into the head of the rivet and then use a air chisel and remove the head. Then just punch it out.





Last edited by cletis; 06/05/2009 5:12 AM. Reason: deleted personal message

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