I am going to add Power Steering to my straight axle '53 3100 and was hoping members could share their experiences with the two types of kits that are available. The most common type of kit uses a '69-'87 2WD box mounted on the outside of the frame ahead of the axle. The other option is No Limit's R&P kit that bolts onto the axle. For anyone who has experienced these conversions, can you tell me how satified you are with the steering/handling? Plus, any tricks/tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Just to compound the situation: there is the Toyota 4x4 box.
I have done a GM box on a 55.2 and it worked very well. I made all of the mounting plates myself. I inset the plate into the frame to provide more tire clearance when turning to the right. Even so, I still had minor tire rubbing in a right turn. Just something to be aware of. This may not be an issue on an AD because of the tapered frame.
And to further compound the situation... I used an IH Scout II box. Check the axle swap pictures on the picture link in my signature. It uses crossover or "Y" type steering though, so for a stock axle would need a special or different arm on the back of the right spindle.
Something to consider on the rack and pinion is how to hook up the steering shaft to the rack so it moves when the axle moves yet still maintains the steering integrity.
I haven't done the rack and pinion approach but have concerns about some of the issues. My brother bought a truck with straight axle and rack and pinion, and after fighting to make it work gave up and converted back to a ball and sector steering box.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
I've seen a rack and pinion setup on the axle for semi trucks with an I-beam front axle, really big. That was at a trade show about two years ago, haven't seen any on the road (haven't been looking either) and haven't heard anything good or bad. Didn't see it or anything like it at the same show this year either.
I also have the same concerns as Steve, and don't think it's a good idea with what's out there now, possibly never.
When there is a factory vehicle with the appropriate sized rack and pinion on an I-beam axle then I'd say that's probably a good start, but for now trying to design and make something else work may not be the best of ideas.
Straight axles and rack and pinion don't work together. With the rack centrally located, it and it's ends stay in one place as suspension travel happens. The axle is a different story, however, as it travels up and down, through each bump it moves a slight bit side to side and then creates bump steer, which is not only unsafe, but scary to drive. The long arms on our stock suspensions mostly eliminate this behavior.
Thanks to everyone for sharing your experience. The tried and true worm and sector appears to be the winner. I too would be interested in hearing from Lonnie re: how he inset the mounting plate, and if the difference in the angle of the pitman arm affected anything. I assume the plate he mentions is along the lines of the one Brothers sells with their kit.
I've got the late pickup steering box conversion on my 1950 truck. There are some pictures of it installed on this page http://millpower-race-engineering.piczo.com/?g=37945531&cr=5 I bought the complete setup from CPP and found it was a simple job to fit. There's plenty of clearance for the left roadwheel on right turns even after I shortened the supplied steering arm that fits to the spindle to give a tighter turning circle -the roads are smaller in the UK than the Tarmac wide open spaces you guys have!
I thought the Toyota box was the easiest swap for the '47 to '55's.
regarding R&P on straight axles....the concept is not sound from a pure suspension geometry point of view (and scares the pooh out of me). I would rather see an orbitrol setup used (which is not legal on road going vehicles)
Scott
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
I am NOT complete with the conversion yet but just this week I have moved the shock to the back side on my 52 panel, I have just drilled the needed holes and have the power steering box bolted up. Now I need to tack the bracket, pull the box off and then weld the bracket real good. The power steering box is for a 74 pickup. Note; I've read LOTS of conversions from the one CPP has, and a couple from other vendors. There are two that have some detailed instructions and pictures. Now that I have been doing mine I found out the differences in some of the kits. MY kit has 1/2" spaces. On another kit the top two are longer....now I know why! The ones in my kit are 1/2" and let the bracket sit too close to the edge of the "rounded" edge of the chassis. No reason in the world for that as you cannot get a really good weld there..at least not easy. So, I'm cutting my own TOP spacers 3/4" and moving the bracket over toward the center of the chassis, almost against some rivets. Next: Each article says the same thing but different ways. Some say measure from the center of the axle, some say measure from the front of the chassis. Each comes out ABOUT the same BUT I did some measuring and if I had used a kit from another vendor it would have bolted to the chassis a "little" different. Example is that when installing the kit I have, the two bottom bolts are hard to get to from inside the chassis because of where the crossmembers are. It was a pain in the butt AND marking the place for the bottom rear bolt is also a pain. Nevertheless, I got it conquered but if I had it to do again I would get the kit with the bracket with all the holes in it. You can then bolt it, with one bolt, and mark other holes to drill in chassis.
Also one kit uses some existing holes!! I may end up liking my kit better, in the end,(Classic Parts) because it appears that the drag link will really be nicely parelelled with the chassis/pitman arm. In other words no heating and bending the pitman arm. (Classic Parts kit "about the same as American Classic but $40 less)
Also be sure to change your grease fitting to the king pins if the one you have is a straight one because when you put the steering arm on you will not be able to get the end of a grease gun hose onto it. I put one in with an angle on it.
I hope I'm not boring you all with this. But there is a difference from one kit to another and we wonder what it is.
Now, why did I choose a 74 gearbox??? One site will say use a box from maybe a 68 thru 76... another site says use one from 68-84. So, what do you do?? I looked up all the part #'s for those years and they change along the way. Not knowing what the REAL difference is I choose the year that the part # ran the longest figuring there are more of them out there if I ever needed another one. So, I choose the last year for that # which was 74 and bought a reman from FLAPS.... and I can buy a new pump, and hoses, for the same gearbox. This same year also had the 305 engine, making it easy to put the pump ect on the engine that I'm using.
I "think" the part #'s changed due to the steering ratios????? The bolters I've talked to agree that I should not note any difference in the steering...especially since I do not have anything to compare it to.
OOOK, my fingers are getting tired and your getting bored. I just hope this helps someone to take your time, explore the different kits available and make a GOOD decision...if so I'm glad.
Do you have pictures of the brackets to illustrate your points and descriptions?
The year differences in the gear boxes may be standard and then metric fittings?? At least the IH box I used changed from standard to metric about the same time, otherwise the same.
Grigg, I do have some pics in my camera that I need to down load to my photobucket. I'm not sure it will show the little details I wrote about but I have them. I'll try get loaded right away!
Gregg, I added some pics to the photobucket link below. The pictures are on page 5 (last page) you can see them better if you click on the pic to enlarge it....and read my "description. If there is something particular you want to see I'll get a better close up shot. Hope this helps answer your questions.
I can post the # stamped in my box. I suspect since some of them were the same ordering a 74 may get you a standard...or metric???
I do know the bolts that screw into the unit is 7/16 standard....if that tells us anything.
I went back and looked and the unit I got used the same # for the steering box from 68 through 76... and then another part # for only a couple years and then one other one on into the 80's. I have it written down somewhere. I did my checking on a local FLAPS web site for each year to get the info above.
EDIT: MMMmm, so maybe the switch to metric was 77. Thats when the number changed after several years the same.
Straight Axle Solutions Top Choices for Updating Your Beam-Axle Trucks Suspensions, suspensions, suspensions! Sometimes it seems like the only tech stories we do here at CLASSIC TRUCKS are chassis and suspension related. Then again, there's good reason for our bias. Most vintage trucks are in need of some sort of suspension attention, whether it's freshening up the stock stuff or scrapping all of it in favor of modern underpinnings.
Yet with all the chassis tech that makes its way into these pages, surprisingly little of it has to do with straight-axle front suspensions. There's a pretty good reason for that, too. Based on what we hear from our readers and what we see at events, independent front suspensions are high on the wish lists of most classic truckers. Most, but not necessarily all.
Let's face it, not everyone has the financial wherewithal or fabrication skills to dive into an aftermarket IFS install or subframe swap. Furthermore, there are some folks who would rather keep beam axles under their trucks--some for reasons of originality, and others who simply like the simple, rugged nature of the setup. Whatever the reason, there's certainly a need for beam-axle upgrade parts, and there's a wide variety of them available from the classic truck aftermarket.
Whether you want a lower stance, better brakes, improved ride quality, or easier steering from your beam-axle ride, the parts are available to make it all possible. Naysayers may point out that you'll spend nearly as much money upgrading the steering, springs, and brakes on a beam-axle truck as you would on an IFS conversion, and the end result still won't ride or handle as nice. There may be some truth to that, but it doesn't end the debate. Many suppliers we speak to say that beam-axle upgrades remain appealing because customers can spread them out over time--disc brakes to start, new springs a few months later, and so on. This not only breaks up the cost, but also means the truck isn't out of commission for weeks or months on end. And since most upgrades are bolt-on affairs, they appeal to hobbyists who may have limited welding or fabrication skills.
From our perspective, any modification that makes your straight-axle truck safer and more fun to drive is worthwhile. So we've taken the liberty of highlighting the upgrades we feel make the most sense. Think of it as a straight-axle wish list or a resource guide for making your classic cruiser more roadworthy. Take a look and see what you think, then get out to the garage and start whipping that classic into shape!
Fortify the Foundation Whether you're working on a straight-axle ride or a vintage IFS setup, it's always important for the core components to be in good working condition before any modifications are made. It should go without saying that the frame and axle need to be straight and solid, and you'll want to make sure all wearable items like kingpins, bushings, and tie rod ends are in good shape. Any excessive wear will only be magnified by additional modifications.
Basic rebuild parts are available from any number of CLASSIC TRUCKS advertisers if you're unable find them at your local parts store. A number of upgraded wearable components are also available. Companies like Brothers, Classic Performance Products (CPP), and others offer heavy-duty tie rods, tie rod ends, and drag links for straight-axle trucks that are not only more durable than stock pieces, but are also better suited for upgrades like power steering and radial tires.
New kingpins and related components (bushings, etc.) can also be found from a variety of specialty companies. Of particular interest are the Royal Kingpin Kits from Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation (SSBC). These innovative kits replace the standard brass bushings with modern needle bearings for improved steering response, lubrication, and longevity. They also use hardened stainless steel kingpins, and most other parts in the kits are either stainless steel or chrome-plated for improved appearance and wear. Royal Kingpin Kits are available for '41-54 GM 1/2-ton trucks, and '37-52 Ford 1/2-ton through 1-ton trucks.
Goin' to the Disc-o Here's a topic that we harp on a lot at CLASSIC TRUCKS, and we're going to say it yet again: If you plan on driving your vintage rig regularly, put disc brakes on it! Let's face it, you can be as careful as you want while you're out on the road, but you'll never change the driving habits of the jerk in the Honda who cuts you off right before slamming on his brakes for a red light or freeway exit. Having disc brakes on your classic's front axle will at least bring you up to par with the stopping power of most vehicles on the road.
There's really no excuse for not making the swap since companies like Engineered Components, Inc. (ECI), Stainless Steel Brakes, Master Power Brakes, No Limit, CPP, and many others have a variety of disc brake conversion kits and components available for popular Fords and Chevys. These range from simple setups utilizing later-model OEM equipment to high-tech arrangements featuring drilled and/or slotted rotors and performance- oriented aluminum calipers. Many kits give you your choice of Ford or Chevy five-lug bolt patterns, and a few Chevy kits (from CPP, Golden State Parts, American Classic, and others) can be had with a six-lug pattern for those who'd like to retain stock-style wheels.
Of course, when you convert to disc brakes you'll also need to upgrade your master cylinder. Most companies that sell disc brake kits offer bolt-in dual-chamber master cylinders with power boosters that fit in the original locations under the floor. They should also be able to help you out with proportioning valves, fittings, and other necessary hardware for such a conversion. A number of companies--Master Power, No Limit, Kugel Komponents, Industrial Chassis, and others--also offer specific-fit and universal firewall-mounted master cylinders and swing pedals, which some rodders prefer over frame-mounted units.
Steering Clear Manual steering wasn't really a problem when all our classics had skinny bias ply tires and drove on gravel roads. But combine wide radial rubber, hard concrete, and a tight parallel parking maneuver and all of a sudden you've got an aerobic experience that'll leave your biceps sore and your lungs aching.
If easier steering is part of your wish list, several options are available. OEM-style power-assist systems are available for resto purists, but many people feel that these power cylinder/control valve-style setups are a little clumsy and cumbersome. That's why aftermarket companies like No Limit, Golden State Parts, CPP, and others offer conversion kits based on more modern power steering boxes. Some of the more popular Ford and Chevy kits consist of custom brackets and Pitman arms that allow the use of late-model Toyota 4x4 power steering boxes. For '47-59 Chevys, CPP, Brothers, Tuckers Classic Pickup Parts, and others also offer kits that adapt '69-87 Chevy 2WD power steering boxes to the original straight-axle suspensions.
It's a Spring Thing A better ride and slinkier stance are pretty easy to achieve with almost any straight-axle truck. It's just a matter of manipulating the stock parallel leaf springs.
Almost any quality spring shop can de-arch a stock set of leaf springs to lower your truck's ride height. They can also reverse the "eyes" at the ends of the springs to achieve (or exaggerate) the same effect. And since we're talking about multi-leaf springs, you can usually remove a few of the shorter leafs to soften up the ride and lower the height (just don't get carried away).
Of course, since we're talking about half-century-old springs, it's often a better idea to just start fresh with new ones. Many aftermarket companies offer custom leaf springs (both mono-leaf and multi-leaf) designed to lower popular Ford and Chevy models. Eaton Detroit Spring can build a set of custom leaf springs for just about any truck that ever came down an American assembly line.
Any spring discussion should also include a few words about shocks. Simply put, you can't achieve optimum ride and handling with old, worn-out shocks. At the very least, you'll want to replace questionable original shocks with fresh new ones. Better still would be to upgrade to premium-quality, performance-oriented shocks from manufacturers like Bilstein, KYB, QA1, or Doetsch-Tech. These companies may not always have listings for vintage trucks, but if you can give them some measurements from your existing shocks (extended height, compressed height, etc.), they'll often be able to find a match. Keep in mind, too, that if you're lowering your straight-axle suspension significantly, you may need to install a shorter shock.
Bend That Beam Back in the days before subframing and Mustang II kits, one of the only ways to lower your truck's front end was to have the axle "dropped." The process essentially involved heating and stretching the axle ends to raise them, thereby lowering the vehicle. Like so many other blacksmithing and metalworking crafts, however, this one has fallen out of general practice. There's at least one holdout, though: Mor-Drop, in Oakland, California, is still offering the service to hot rodders and classic truckers in need.
A new and improved version of the dropped axle has recently come on the market, as well. Introduced by Mid Fifty F-100 Parts last year, this modern dropped axle is fabricated with a 2-inch tubular steel center section, CNC-machined steel ends, and laser-cut spring pads. (A detailed installation is shown elsewhere in this issue.) Mid Fifty currently offers 3- or 4-inch drop versions for '53-56 F-100s. The fabricated dropped axle concept appears to be taking off, as the folks at Classic Performance Products tell us that they hope to have '47-54 and '55-59 Chevy versions available by the time you read this.
Parting Advice Admittedly, this is just a brief overview of available straight-axle upgrades, but we hope it'll get you thinking about possibilities for your pickup. More information is just a phone call or mouse click away, thanks to the catalogs, tech lines, and websites of the companies listed in the source box at the end of this story. If there's something available for your beam-axle truck, these folks should be able to help you find it.
What do these three trucks have in common?
A) They all look great; and B), they do so without the aid of an independent front suspension. There are plenty of parts available to help you upgrade your straight-axle truck. Read on for more information.
It's always a good idea to freshen up the core wearable components before making major mods to your straight-axle suspension. It shouldn't be too difficult to find new kingpins, bushings, tie rod ends, drag links, and other parts through well-stocked parts houses or specialty aftermarket suppliers. Many companies also offer upgraded replacement parts like heavy-duty tie rods and tie rod ends. These Chevy parts are from Brothers.
This Royal King Pin Kit from Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation (SSBC) is a great way to improve steering while freshening up your frontend. Quality materials (stainless steel kingpins, for instance) and the use of needle bearings instead of brass bushings make for better all-around performance. Kits are available for '41-54 GM and '37-52 Ford trucks.
Another great way to improve handling on an otherwise stock suspension is to add a sway bar. They're readily available for most popular Fords and Chevys through many specialty parts suppliers. These front and rear bars are from Classic Performance Products.
We can't stress enough the importance of quality brakes on a classic truck that sees regular road duty. Disc brake conversions are available in a wide range of configurations (from basic bracket kits to complete assemblies) and with all kinds of options (different bolt patterns, aluminum calipers, etc.).
Shown here is a five-lug Chevy conversion kit from ECI and a six-lug Chevy kit from CPP.
Care to add some high-tech performance and sparkle to your straight-axle brakes? SSBC offers flashy options like this two-piston polished aluminum caliper and billet aluminum mounting bracket/splash shield on its various disc brake kits for Ford and Chevy trucks.
Don't forget the dual-chamber master cylinder and power booster when upgrading your brakes. Actually, converting to power is a good way to improve the operation of almost any braking system--even drums. This Chevy setup is from Brothers.
Power steering is another upgrade that's getting easier and easier to make on many straight-axle trucks--thanks to a variety of conversion kits from the aftermarket. This is a Toyota 4x4 power steering box mounted on a F-100 frame using a CPP kit.
Here's a similar power steering kit from Golden State Parts, only this one is designed for '50s-era Chevys.
Leaf springs can be de-arched for a lower stance. You can also have a spring shop reverse the "eyes" or remove a couple shorter leafs to get the same result. Better yet, order up a set of lowered leaf springs from any number of specialty suppliers, or have Eaton Detroit Spring make you a custom set. Eaton can make springs for just about anything, and they let you select the desired ride height and load rate.
Mono-leaf springs are another option for getting a lower stance and better ride quality. This comparison of a stock '60s-era Ford leaf spring and an aftermarket mono-leaf illustrates the difference in design and construction.
Back in the '50s it was pretty easy to find an axle shop that would heat, bend, and stretch your straight axle to get you a low, slinky stance. One of the only shops we know that still does it is Oakland, California's, Mor-Drop. This photo from the '70s shows four axles with various "drops."
A different approach to the dropped-axle concept is this new fabricated version. F-100 versions were introduced last year by Mid Fifty F-100 Parts. They're built using 2-inch tubular steel center sections with CNC-machined, solid steel ends. CPP hopes to be offering Chevy versions (in addition to Ford units) by the time you read this.
Last edited by carolines truck; 06/06/20097:03 AM.
Jim & Caroline The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense." Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
Adding to "Carolines Truck" post about dropped axles,I have a Mor-Drop axle,,,good product, but it took him forever.His blacksmith shop is quite an interesting place to visit. I recently bought another one from www.droppedaxles.com Sid Drapal is a great guy,gets the job done with no bull malarkey and is right there with tech help! He does most of the larger swap meets and has a really good selection of different axles.
Does anyone remember the add on power steering system for the 1/2 ton AD trucks that used a power cylinder on the axle and you kept the stock steering box? Or was I dreaming? Thanks John
I'm working on an idea to mount a GM Saginaw steering box on top of the frame rail with the Pitman arm hanging down beside the frame and the drag link running parallel to it. There's only one problem with that setup- - - -turn the steering wheel left, and the front wheels go right! The fix is a 1:1 ratio gearbox mounted just above the steering gear input shaft to reverse the direction of the input. I'm about halfway done with fabricating the gearbox. That setup should eliminate the tire-scrubbing problem, and also get rid of the Rube Goldberg bellcrank arrangement! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
X2! I have done every type; Saginaw, R&P, Unisteer, power ram tie rod assist, but now it will definitely be electric. I don't do made up kits (takes the fun out of it) so it looks like the Saturn E-steer is the preferred route. Now we just need someone to come through the door wanting it.
Carl, Just do a search. There are numerous installs with photos and one of the main kit suppliers, EPAS ($$$) has a video IIRC. The ones I paid attention to are the Saturn Vue conversions.
Carl, Just do a search. There are numerous installs with photos and one of the main kit suppliers, EPAS ($$$) has a video IIRC. The ones I paid attention to are the Saturn Vue conversions.
I did a search, and as usual, everything except what I am looking for comes up. I only need a simple question answered at this point anyway. Where is the unit installed? Behind the dash in the cab? Thank you, Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Yes Carl. Some modifications are required but from what I understand it is fairly straight forward. Not cheap though.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Carl, Click on the Gord&Fran post, it's great! Step by steps pics of an early Falcon install which would be very nearly the same as an AD truck. It goes in my keeper file.
This is the kit I bought, same column. It is pricey but you don't need a power steering box, pump, pulleys or hoses. Very clean. You can also buy aftermarket columns with all the bells and whistles already set up for it if that's what you prefer.
mick53, did you get the GM Universal kit? Do you have a stock column or?
I have the kit that is listed for the C-1 corvette. They have the same column. I'm using my stock column. I have not installed mine but I put one in my friends 54 and I like it. You could literally install this with a hacksaw and a file. It torques off the outer column tube so there are no brackets and you can clock the motor up under the dash. I'm putting my gain control where my throttle cable was and putting the "T" knob on it. A nice bonus is it works when your car is not running. If it fails it just goes back to manual. It's expensive and not for everyone. For me it was a no brainer, it's not a tractor so why does it have a hydraulic pump? I also have an electric A/C compressor for the same reasons and I threw away my distributor too so I'm far from normal. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you but I was polishing parts for aerodynamic reasons.Thank you for your time.
I don''t know that it is really that much more expensive by the time you buy a gearbox, a power steering pump, brackets for pump, fabricate for gearbox and column, pitman arm, belt, etc....
