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#529557 04/18/2009 2:00 AM
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Now that my ’41 is on the road and using the stock unsynchronized 4 speed I can tell just how noisy it is inside the cab. What are good choices for sound deadener to be placed under the floor carpeting?


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Kip's41 #529641 04/18/2009 5:27 AM
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1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Grigg #530490 04/20/2009 9:46 PM
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Thankx Grigg


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Kip's41 #530522 04/20/2009 11:34 PM
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Kip;

I had some extra foam used under carpeting. (This is the black multi colored foam) I used it between the headliner and roof! What a differance when you knock on the roof.
I will use it on the floor on top of door/window flashing sealer from home depot.

MichaelR #530575 04/21/2009 2:15 AM
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Kips41: the link gregg gave you will keep you reading for a while and its all good info. That leaves the choice to you and how fat your wallet is!!!

I do caution you about the finding the BRAND they talk about. I want to use Peel & Seal but around here Home Depot or Lowes does not seem to know what I'm talking about. I've been to the roofing dept, gutter dept, window dept, insulating dept and have NOT found the names I see and read about in my area.
I got a piece of the roofing but was not sure that was what I wanted. Took it back, got some more stuff from Home Depot and definitely not what I wanted.
Well, I ended up in the window dept and found some stuff made by Protecto Wrap that is called "Butyl Hybrid Window & Door Sealing Tape". I hate to open it and find its not what I want but I think I'm going to as it says it sticks very well.

The other surprise I got was I was expecting stuff a 1/4" thick but all I've found that sounds like what we discuss here is not even 1/8" thick!!!
Perhaps some of us (Me?) are getting confused with trying to INSULATE ...vs SOUND DEADENING???
I have the window seal tape sitting right here beside the computer and think I may try it. If it sticks as well as it says it should DEADEN the sound. I'll go for INSULATION on the firewall and roof/sides of the panel to help cool it....and the INSULATION may help to deaden the sound.

The sure bet would probably be the Second Skin or the Dynamax but that is a bit pricey to me!
At least the stuff I'm looking at does not have a smell to it but heck, some of the bolters say after a couple days the asphalt smell goes away????
I think it boils down to the brand name used in the area??

Happy hunting smile


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I personally used Summitts brand.
Part # SUM-879014
It is a bit cheaper than the name brands like Dynamat they show on TV all the time and seems to do the same job.
just my 2 pennies.
Tim


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I think Alvin hit the nail on the head. There are two types of material we can ues in our turcks. SOUND DEADENING and INSULATION. Both will reduce the noise in the cab, but I think each has it own advantages.

SOUND DEADENING material such as Peel & seal or Dynamat are basicly a thin >1/8" asphaltic material with a aluminum facing. This is used to reduce the "ringing" of the metal body. It will give your a nice solid thud sound when you close them, and your cab won't sound like riding around in an old tool box.

INSULATION material is typicaly a thick fiberous pad that you would use under the carpet or headliner to cut down on heat and noise transmission. I'm not sure of any specific brand names but some look like shredded carpet fibers bonded to an aluminum facing, others look more like a thick piece of felt.

I think if you use these two types of products you can achieve a relative quite and comfortable ride.

Here is what I did on my truck just for reference. I installed the Peel & Seal as a sound deadener on the inside of the entire cab, (walls, floor, roof, firewall, even under the dash). I also covered the inside of the doors and door panels, (easy to do on my 46, not so on AD's).

Then I used sone foil backed insulation, which came from Home Depot, sold as an insulation blanket for a water heater, and glued it to the roof and back wall of the cab. All of this was covered with the headliner or interior panels behind the seat. I didn't use this in the doors because I was afraid it would soak up any water that may get into the door from the windows and cause a rust problem. Then under the carpet is a thick felt like padding that was installed by my upholstery guy.

The final product is solid sounding doors and a fairly quite interior.

I hope this helps.
George

46forme #531596 04/24/2009 3:42 AM
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The dynamat, Hushmat, Second Skin, etc. advertise as a sound deadening and temp insulator. I have used Second Skin all over like George but as yet not cranked the engine and therefore cannot testify as to the effectiveness of the temp insulation of the product. I also bought 8 24" X 36" foam mats from Second Skin that is supposed to be a temp insulation to put on the floor board and anywhere else the spirit moves me.
I am toying with the idea of filling the hollow area around the rear window where you cannot reach, with some kind of foam insulation like "Crazy Stuff".
Back in the late 60s when I was in my twenties and driving my old 51 3100, I stuffed fiberglass insulation up under the dash, under the seat and behind the seat. The ride was incredibility quiet, as quiet as my mother's LTD. Therefore with this modern tech products we should be "riding in style."


~Jim
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What made a huge difference in the noise in my truck, was changing to 85-140 gear oil. Also, I lashed out and bought the felt, and rubber mat from Jim Carters for the floor. I haven't looked to see if they have it for '41's. That made a huge difference. I also sprayed the underside of the cab with several cans of cheap asphalt undercoating. I suppose it's about an eighth of an inch think now. I chose that stuff, not only because its cheap, but a little kerosene or paint thinner will remove it completely. I also sprayed the transmission, after cleaning it with my friend kerosene.

All of that combined with the tar paper I stuck on the roof and under the seat, makes it so you can carry on a conversation, especially when I'm in fourth, going 25 mph!

I realize that the low tech, and or cheap, methods I used are not the most popular.




Christopher
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Mr. Lang #532833 04/28/2009 2:11 AM
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I used a T5 transmission under the floor. It worked very well. grin
[sorry, couldn't resist it]

Brian

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i bought the sound deadening kit from LMC, don't. i had to throw it out it was cardboard and dried out and cracked. the upholstery shop refused to use it. ron


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WE b OLD #536160 05/09/2009 3:52 AM
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While there has been MUCH written about this subject I will add a footnote. Around here I could not find the "Peel & Seal" brand and after a couple trips to Home Depot and Lowes I ended up buying a 6" roll stuff that is by brand name called Protecto Wrap. I got it in the windows section for less than $20. I have NOT put it in my doors yet but I did cut a small piece to see how it would stick to the inside of the rear panel doors. Man, that stuff sticks. It was hard to pull back off and I did not "roll" it with the small wall paper roller that I will use when I install all of it. Its the thin stuff mentioned by many but just a different brand name. I actually saw a guy that used it under his hood and inside the doors on his vehicle and he said it was good stuff. He is running a 583HP engine and he said it makes a world of difference. For 20 bucks I think its gonna be a winner.

All this just for info.


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The best check for quality of all these products is to cut a 2" X 2" square and stick it to a cymbal and then strike the cymbal. Compare each product and I will guarantee you there will be a great difference in each of them.


~Jim
Achipmunk #537064 05/12/2009 10:40 PM
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That Protecto-Wrap is a genius idea! My husband is a carpenter and they use this stuff to seal gap between windows and walls. Comes in different widths 3", 6". Also comes 3feet wide as a product called "Ice and Water" that you put under the first course of shingles when roofing. Ought to work great even inside the doors where it will be exposed to the weather. I would worry about the other, foil-faced stuff drawing moisture and causing rust even inside the cab, but this stuff is like tar with a plastic face and shouldn't absorb moisture. So where exactly would you apply this stuff? Would you put on just strips or try to fill it in solid? I'm gonna have to try this!


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PJS #537179 05/13/2009 3:38 AM
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PJS: hopefully I will get to put it in my doors this weekend. The earlier doors are easy. Take off the inner metal panel and expose the entire inside of the door.
On my AD it will be different as you have very little room to get into the inside of the door and work. I plan to cut to length and then put it in one strip at a time. I think it can be form fitted to most places pretty good but there will be a small place or two you can't get sometime depending on the access. So, do all you can and thats it. I do plan to use a small wallpaper roller to roll it down and make it stick....but as I already mentioned. I stuck a small piece on the inside of the rear door and that stuff sticks really good.
I'm using the 6" stuff.......and remember, this is for SOUND deading and not insulation!!


1937 Chevy Pickup
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1952 Chevy Panel
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1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Achipmunk #537249 05/13/2009 6:50 AM
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MIND the possibility when using an some asphalt based product. when the high heat dance
of summer and exhaust hits the product it can smell, emit toxic fumes, slide or melt. brrrrr those type products [ if / are ] best used outside the cab and used in the housing industry whereas other deadening products are made for their application qualities.

do your homework first.....

Last edited by carolines truck; 05/13/2009 6:58 AM.

Jim & Caroline
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Alvin, Fortunatly with this stuff you don't have to cover the entire area to achieve good sound deadening. As for coming loose or any toxic fumes, I have had peel & seal in my truck for more than 4 years and have not noticed any smell or problems with coming loose, and I've had it out in the hot So. Cal. sun (over 100 degrees) many times.

George

46forme #537514 05/14/2009 3:40 AM
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George, just to make sure it don't smell I put the roll out in the sun the other day and left it. Since it was air tight package I figured when I opened it that it would "knock me down" and smell bad. Well, it didn't. I also mentioned that I took a small patch and stuck inside the back door and pressed it with my hand. Let it there for a couple days and when I pulled it off it was tough!! I figure when I roll it some with the wallpaper roller it will stick even tighter.
Thanks for confirming what I thought. I'll let everyone know how it turns out....as soon as I can get in the shop. 15 more school days and its summer time yahoo


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Achipmunk #537921 05/15/2009 4:56 AM
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well spoken my friends
when you ask
you get good answers
i bought a roll and will try it now
i'm also going to roll some on the inside of the garage roll up doors to quiet them wink

Last edited by carolines truck; 05/15/2009 4:56 AM.

Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE

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