Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
|
| | Forums66 Topics128,052 Posts1,055,727 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
|
| THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
|
| | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 | Last year I took the oil pan off of my 50 216 to do an internal inspection and replace the gaskets. I cleaned about 1/2" of deposited dirt and sludge out of the bottom. I cleaned and inspected as good as I could, repainted the outside and reinstalled with a new gasket. Almost immediately a pin hole shown up. I did what any self-respecting redneck might do - ran a sheet metal screw thru it. That almost stopped the leak. Later another pin hole. I made up a little JB Weld and covered the area where both holes are. First re-fill of oil (after replacement of pushrod cover and valve cover gaskets) and a 15 mile trip around the area and - you guessed it - another pin hole. Corrosion from old, dirty oil right? That old dirt was sealing the holes. Anybody else had this? Any remedy besides a replacement pan?
Professional Novice
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 |
Corrosion from water in the old, dirty oil - maybe?
You could try to salvage the pan by taking it off, thoroughly cleaning the grease and paint (if any) off of it, and then coating the inside and outside with POR-15.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 |
Professional Novice
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | I would take the pan of and have a sheetmetal patch welded in.....or find a replacement pan. They can't be that hard to find. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 | Well they say JB Weld can fix anything so I tried it. After a more thorough cleaning inside and out and inspection I dobbed some JB inside and outside on the most corroded spots and let it cure for a couple of days. Then 2-3 coats of enamel inside and out and after another 24 back on with the same gasket. Re-fill and drove about 40 miles and not a drop!  It's been parked now for about 5 days and still no leaks!
Professional Novice
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 | There are lots of old engines around. I would look for a good used oil pan. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,771 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,771 | I see oil pans on ebay pretty often. No sense patching on a piece of Swiss cheese! A good welder can probably replace the entire bottom of the corroded area with a piece of NON-GALVANIZED sheet metal, about 16 or 18 gauge. Galvanized metal gives off toxic fumes when it's welded, and the zinc coating might flake off and score bearings.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 117 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2009 Posts: 117 | brass...if you can braze that is, brass will stop that leak forever | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 684 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 684 | If you run across a good pan, you might grab it, just in case.
Although the JB Weld will probably last from now on. | | |
|
|
