The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Buying a crate engine for a 53 GMC 3/4 Ton

Okay so first time ever buying a create engine, I want a 350, thought that would be simple enough but yea there are alot of options how do I choose. Here is what I want out of it.

A. It needs to be able to tow 5000 lbs
B. I would like it to run at least 75 MPH (that's the local speed limit not trying to be a speed demon though that would be nice)
C. (Does it matter if i am going manual or auto on the engine block or not? Can anyone recommend a good 4x4 auto trans to replace what I currently have?)
D. I want a package motor I don't want to go buy this part here and that part there, I want her ready to drop in and go.


http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance/809/12568758/10002/-1 so I am looking at this one but there is no package deal on it at jegs and honestly I have never done this any thoughts?

If your rear end is stock then it is probably a 4:56 ratio. At 75 MPH the engine would have to be running pretty flat out and the one your looking at is not a high RPM engine. Someone will come along shortly with the gear selector website info so you can figure it out. Also, with 5K behind you I don't want to be in front of you when you are trying to stop. The 56 Y/O brakes just are not going to do it well at all.

You did not say what tranny you have so I cannot recommend one as you may already have it but it would likely need to be an OD unit.

I think you may need to rethink this whole thing with the weight and speed your wanting.

didn't say because i do not know but I am changing to disk brakes, It is not going to be a true "stovebolt" it is going to be my everyday vehicle, fishing hunting it will get a ton of miles on it, it is a 4 speed granny is all I know. But it will look original all body parts head lamps tail lights turn signals all that will be re manufactured to a 12v version, interior ect will be original except a CD player but, out of site out of mind right? is there any other engine types that might suite my needs only upgrades I will be making are mechanical bring it to the current day in auto technology. <<<< New car guy here please excuse my stupidity :P


Also the reason I say 5k is because that is what the trucks rated for my boat fully loaded down is barely 2500 and I can pull that on my small suv no problem. But no when towing the boat speed limit here is 55 MPH.

I would suggest a GM performance crate engine and put an NV4500 OD trans behind that so it won't be screaming the whole time. Go with the 300 hp version for decent horsepower but still having engine longevity,
Scott

Putting a V8 into a 1953 model can be a challenge unless you use an independent front suspension clip. Possibly this is already in your plans if you plan on going to disc brakes. The original 4.56 rear was not made to run 75 with any kind of engine. Chevy 3speeds with a Warner overdrive makes a 4.56 very driveable. Your plans of installing a v8 will require many hours of labor. It could turn out to be such a project that you don't have time to go boating.

I am open to ideas do you have any recommendations on another GM engine 6 cylinder? And the boat engine is next FYI last weekend I blew the solenoids, due to bad seals, which in turned flooded my engine with salt water, and cant even get the thing to turn on to flush it...

This is what I bought. Ready to run only needed headers and gas. Even came with an air compressor.
http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/E...=350%20HO&sku=12499711&engCat=sb

and you needed the independent front suspension clip? sorry im such a noob here just trying to get all my ducks in a row so i can go to my bank (the wife) and convince her to pay for it.

Cal, just keep cruising this and other old Chevy sites for information. Before long you will know what you want and how to get it.

No need for an ifs clip. The big issue is the steering box. The clearance is very tight for the exhaust manifolds. I've seen some guys simply moove the box to the left about an 1 1/2"-2" to get clearance, or the engine could be mounted off center, too. I used to have part numbers for Hooker headers that were supposed to clear, I think one side was a Chevelle fitment, the other was '67-'69 Camaro/'68-'75 Nova fitment. I don't recall which side was wich, though.
The NV4500 would be a good trans choice, but a 700R4 would also be ok. GM used them in their light 3/4 tons for years. My Dad has an '88 with one, we towed my truck back from Marrietta GA with it, 3700# plus trailer weight, did just fine.
You mention a 4x4 trans. Is a 4x4 conversion in the works as well? If so, you might look for a '73-'87 3/4 ton or '79-'91 1 ton for axles. Should be able to get better gearing, plus front disks. You may need to contact Advanced Adapters for a T-case adapter, depending on what axles and transfer case you use. I would suggest the NP205 gear drive part time case.

Just a thought...
You have a 3/4 ton with 8 lug axles. There is no disc brake kit currently available for that truck.

Installing a V8 is not a simple bolt on instalation. It will require careful planning and fabrication. A 302 GMC 6 cylinder will give you all the power you could use and bolt right in where the original 228 was.

As for transmissions, the NV4500 ranks high for any truck that will do towing. This transmission can be made to work with the original 6 cylinder bellhousing.

Trucks are really cheap in this economy. If you are set on a V8, consider buying one that has already had that swap. You will be $$$ ahead, and you can preserve that unmolested jimmy for someone who will appreciate it for what it really is... A 56 year old truck that has thrived and survived.

John

First: stop being sorry for not knowing what you're doing! We're a pretty friendly group here, and are happy someone new is getting into the hobby.
Second: to get an idea of what you'll need for the front suspension, you'll need to get some reading material. Order catalogs from LMC, Brothers and CCP, and get familiar with what's out there in the way of conversion kits, parts availability, etc. And I always recommend having the catalogs versus on-line versions because you can take notes, read them in the bathroom, quickly compare things, etc.
Also, get a subscription to a truck magazine. Custom Classic Trucks does a pretty good job of covering early trucks.

Now, as for the conversion: I don't own the same body style truck you do, but they're pretty popular, so I would be very surprised if a V8 conversion kit (motor mounts, trans cross members and radiators) isn't readily available from a couple sources.

You'll do well to swap out the rear end for something later, and more common. Ford 9-inch, GM truck rear, Dana 44, etc. Your options here are wide open. As you get more familiar with the truck, this site and your research material, you'll be able to make a better decision. Swapping rear ends is pretty easy, and if you can't do it (because of welding on new spring perches), just about any shop can do it for you, and shouldn't be too hard on the wallet.

Engine: 2 years ago, I bought a $1,300 crate 350 from the GM parts counter. 290hp, 300lb. I'm VERY happy with it. I had a 4spd granny gear with 1:1 final drive and 3.55 gears, and it went down the highway in the left lane just fine. I've since swapped in a 4spd OD with .72:1 final, and rebuilt the Dana 44 with 3.42 gears, and it gets down the road VERY nicely. Mine is a manual trans, and I'll do some towing with it eventually. And auto trans will work very nicely with any GM crate engine.

Keep it simple with an Edelbrock intake, Carter 4bbl carb, and cast-iron exhaust manifolds.

You'll need to redo the entire wiring system anyway, so making the conversion to 12v will be pretty easy.

-Brad

It is already a 4x4, Not sure how the older axles hold up if there is better or what but it appears to be originally 4x4.

Read your Gallery report on the "new" truck and see that you got a quick baptism in AD brakes. You do know that the "parking" brake is also an "emergency" brake don't you? But I guess that didn't work either. You may find out that $7,000 truck would have been a better buy. However it sounds like restoration is in your blood and this is your hobby. If that is the case, you will have much more fun "bonding" with this truck. Good luck, hang around here and you'll learn a bunch from these guys.

I hesitate to mention it but as I have found in my life experience it isn't what you say that causes as many problems as what you don't say, so here goes;

if it's a 4x4 then both axles must have the same ratio and that isn't going to happen changing the rear to late model parts. So both front and rear axles must be changed. Look for a 76+ model GM and makes sure the width works with you fenders. 1/2 tons are 3:73 ratio I think.

I love restoration but like my page reads, I am a boat guy first ever time with a truck or any automobile. I knew the parking brake was also the E brake but it doesn't work either as you assumed. a 7k truck would have been a smarter/better buy but when all is said and done and I pass the truck down its gonna be nice to say I did it all ya know?

I could care less if it is a 4x4 just that the truck is already one should I keep it that way? or can I convert it to a 2x4?

Personally I would prefer mine to be a 2 wheel drive as it is much simpler and a little easier on fuel. Unless you, for some reason, need a 4x4 I would pull it all out and upgrade the rear with a F$%D 9" or 10/12 bolt GM. Then I would install a Mustang II IFS and V8, etc., etc.
Now the purist will come out and have a little hissy fit, but that is what I would do. You do what makes you happy, not what I would do or what anyone else would do. Take it all with a grain of salt or in some cases a pound of salt.

First step would be to ID what axles are currently under the truck. The gearing may not that bad, especially if they came from a later truck. Now, if you really want to convert it back to a 2wd, especially with towing in mind, a late odel 1/2 or 3/4 ton axle in the rear and either a 1/2 ton I beam w/disk conversion or perhaps a crossmemeber from a later 3/4 ton ifs 2wd might be a beter choice. Nothing against the Mustang 2 based suspension kits, but they are better suited to cruisers, not trucks that still are used for hauling/towing.
One advantage that a 4x4 would have over a 2wd, though, is Low Range. Could come in handy, specially when pulling your boat out of the water. You can lock it down in Low Range, and have an extra strong pulling gear to ease it out. Plus the extra traction of 4 wheel drive.

That truck sure looks like a 1/2 ton.
What does the grill badge say? 100? 150? 250?
How many lugs do the wheels have? 5, 6, or 8?

It is important to know what you have before you start tearing it apart.

grill says nothing, it has 8 lugs. 152 22 C XXXX is what the ID plate reads on the inner door post driver side, also says it is 95HP 3400 RPM and can tow 5500. I looked it up and it reads like a 3/4 ton... but I may have goofed something up. Left out the last 4 as that's the number it is in production to my understanding.

My bad... it is a 3/4 ton. Those wheels looked like an inexpensive steel 6 lug 1/2 ton wheel. Any chance that front axle is a closed knuckle NAPCO axle? If it is you would see NAPCO cast in the front with big 1 inch letters.

Took a look at the pix, 8 lugs, 3/4 ton. I didn't notice any lockouts on the front axle. Are you certain it's a 4x4?

wow now I feel dumb... see what I get for thinking, it is indeed a 2wd I assumed it was because of the lockouts on the rear wheels, have not looked under the front until now, but it is a 2w rear wheel drive, I'm used to front wheel drive and just assumed.

No one is dumb here, we are all learners sharing what we've learned.

Didn't mean to amke you feel bad or anything, just trying to figure out what you got. The hubs on the rear are normal for a 3/4 ton (or at leaast on the older ones) that use the full floating axle. The bearing setup is more like the front, with an inner and outer bearing. The axle itself doesn't carry any of the weight, unlike a semi float like what a 1/2 ton (or late model light 3/4 ton) would have. Most likely, it's an Eaton HO52, with the 4.56 gear. Easiest way to et a more highway freindly gear would be to swap the rearend out for a later one, Dodge and ford 3/4 ton vans are close to the correct width, though many are not full float.
You might also search the site, I do beleive that there are a couple of guys working on a disk brake conversion for the 3/4 tons that keep the stock front axle.