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#509369 02/23/2009 2:16 PM
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 137
O
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
O Offline
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 137
As I wait for my CDrom shop manual to be delivered, I really dont want to wait to dig into my 292 engine to fix a leaking exhaust manifold gasket.

So, is the manifold bolted in a simply as it appears? Or are there secret hidden nuts/bolts placed with the intent of bashing my knuckles?

Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 707
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
H Offline
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 707
They are all placed as they are with the intention of making you bleed. When you bleed on your stovebolt, a holy union ensues, so be happy. Soak 'em all down with penetrating oil before you crack 'em, and don't forget to check the plane of the manifold before reinstallation.


1951 3800

Be the change you want to see.
-hotshoe
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
........bleeding = blood brothers smile You and the Bolt!


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 841
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
H Offline
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 841
one between each intake and exaust port, some are a litle lower than others. if you take off the exaust, carb linkage, choke, fuel, and pcv lines first they come right off. i would change the outer alignment dowels to studs while it's off. if you don't have a straight edge and feeler gauge to check straightness a machine shop should be able to do it for you. they need to be milled lots of times. a exaust leak is a pain on these, i just got done fixing one.

Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 136
O
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
O Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 136
You will either A. Bleed from the knuckles. 2. Bleed from your eyes (cause your so po'd at it). C. Bleed from your wallet to pay for new parts. Thats why we love our Bolts!

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 581
M
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
M Offline
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 581
Ditto on the outer dowels to studs replacement. Think my fresh rebuild may have an exhaust leak at the front. Wishing I could tighten down that outside edge! :mad:

If it makes you feel better about the bleeding, I managed to shower myself in Coolant lastnight in the process of removing the thermostat. I may not have been "one with the truck", but I sure smelled like it! dang

-Michael



Please type slow, as I can't read very fast.

1939 Chevy/Central Fire Engine
1941 Chevy/American Fire Engine
1950 Chevy/American Fire Engine
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,191
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,191
The bolts holding the whole mess to the head will come off pretty easy, its the three holding the intake to the exhaust that could give you trouble. If you heat the area around the bolt, but not the bolt itself, they should come out. Take it off as a unit, separate them and check the condition of the surfaces. They wear pretty bad on the exhaust side right under the intake. If you plan to have them machined, go ahead and bolt them together solid. If going back on the engine, leave the three bolts loose till you get the whole unit bolted to the head. Once on the head, snug all the bolts down, starting with the three hold together bolts, then working from the center out, tighten the others. Joe


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