The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop lug bolt removal

I'm trying to remove the lug bolts on the rear of a 53 1/2 ton. I have some bolts that have bad threads. The first few came out easily with hitting with a hammer. But the others won't budge. I've even tried heating it with mapp gas and still not luck. any suggestions?

Really big breaker bar with a bigger piece of steel pipe. Then stand on it.

start by tightening - use a good impact wrench

Bill

I'm talking about the lug bolts. not the lug nuts.

Bigger hammer. And if that doesn't work, use an air hammer.

ah, the studs different ball game, they'll be very tight in the axle flange, might hafta take it to a shop with a press, don't think I'd be heating that axle much

Bill

I have drilled out a few. I think that they must have flared them out on both ends.

I was real careful not to drill into the spindle. I started with a small bit and gradually got larger. Then I took a hammer and chisel.

Best of luck

Those bolts (studs) are not threaded, they have raised, straight "ribs" like these) . This handy tool set can be used to both remove the old studs and install the new studs, with the axle still on the truck. No hammer is necessary - you will be pressing the stud out and then in.

2 of them will not come out. I think they might be rusted in there. I'll probably have to just leave those two without nuts until it is drivable, and I can take it to the shop and let them give it a try.

If you cant beat them back with a 5# fist maul, then the best bet is to cut them off flat, then start step drilling from the center. When you get close to the knurled portion, a 5# fist maul and a large drift.

oh yeah, and dont hit yourself

Had a couple just like your describing. I sprayed with penetrating oil and soaked them and soaked them. Nothing doing. Finally I had to grind them flat as mentioned above, then center punched and drilled them out. The steel is not that tough and with a couple nice sharp bits they will come out. The Knurled edges (ribs) is what makes it tight and holds it in. After drilling them out the new ones are sort of tough to pull all the way in.
Good luck.

That is where I am at right now. The bolts are grade 5 i'm guessing. I got a hole drilled in the 2 that won't budge, but as I go bigger in size, the bolt just won't cut. The smaller bits where able to go through with a lot of force, but the larger ones with the more surface area are a little tougher. I ordered the little handy press that tclederman recommended and I'll give that a try.

I have yet to find anything that I cannot remove that is stuck with the old PB blaster and heat. I got this trick off this site and I am a burnin coolin fool.
Heat it with a propane torch. When it is good and hot, spray it with PB blaster. Then apply the proper tool(s)to remove, i.e. BFH and drift pin, wrench, vise grips, etc. On lugs bolts I like to put the lug nut on to provide me with more surface area when swinging the "meat".
The experts here say heat expands the metal breaking rust and corrosion. When sprayed the PB is drawn in as it cools.
I removed a pitman arm the other day via this method. Put the puller on it with tension, heated, cooled with blaster, it popped, and I proceeded to wrench it off.
I have removed broken bolts in nuts, nuts on bolts, you name it.
Heck, I'm contemplating using it to see if it will get the ex off my [censored]!
Cavebull

in the machine shop we used to swage the top of the knurled portion sticking out of the Axel ,look to see if it was swaged ,most stock one's on 5he old stuff was . we used a cutter to cut the swage off to keep from enlarging the bore .

I saturated mine in PB Blaster, lightly tapped them w/ a hammer straight on to shake free rust, and put the lugs nut on and use it to back them out

This maybe a little late, and there is a big difference between a 53 and a 68. I recently had to knock the studs out to replace the drums on the rear of my 68 C20. I left the lug nut at the top of the stud. The I used two 2# mallets placing one on top of the lug nut and hitting it with the other. This gives you a larger area to hit, which allows you to think about force rather than aim. It also adds 2# to the down force. Another 2 cents gone.

Larry