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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,100 Posts1,056,513 Members48,448 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Need a reading by a real wood worker, I just know there are some woodworking experts out there. We're all aware that the bed wood for an AD was originaly Southern Yellow Pine, which by the way is about imposable to find now days. At least, that's what I have found here in the mid-west. But does anyone know for sure what species the under-bed support wood was? Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 117 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 117 | ha ha ha ,try pressure treated wood, thats what i did ! should last...................
care to chat write back
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 | I believe it was Ash Denny. cheap but dense grained, from what was left of my blocks I would lean towards Ash. Tim | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 866 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 866 | I agree Radial, with the extra parts that came with out truck the blocks were ash, definitely looked like they could have been original blocks!
Last edited by coach-frank; 08/06/2008 3:11 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Thanks guy I'll pick up a few pieces next time I'm up for may guitar lesson, theres the "Hardwood Connection" just up the street from there. I'll see if I can get a few nice clear 8/4 lengths. I haven't had them out yet but they are actually still in excelent condition, from what I can see. But I'm just playing what if. Denny G Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Stopped by the Hard wood shop yesterday and they don't haves White Ash but they can get it, runs $5.95 bd/ft. The guy suggested Osage Orange at $13.95 bd/ft which he has in stock. Asked again about clear Southern Yellow Pine and got the NG sign as usual. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Which ever you choose take an old tip from Radial....soak them in some preservative before installing. As for boards Radial suggests standing them in a pan of preservative and let them soak to help prevent premature end cracking ect...thanks Tim, I'll never for get that tip!!(And to think I use to do woodwork)
I have some close grain Oak that I'm going to use for my panel supports blocks. Its tight grain and I will soak them. I can't complain as they were free. My friend planned them and brought them to me! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 | Alvin, if you can find a qrt.of Nelsonite that is the best stuff for wood stabilazation, I do believe they make a more user freindly version of it now ...Nelsonite in the day we used it heavily was well NOT healthy stuff to use without a respirator an spray booth. but for Soaking end grain blocks it would be great!...no mist in the air to breath in. OOH AN ALVIN Sethy said THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! for the 2 dollar bills ...he is up too 22 of em in his savin box. Tim | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | OOOOOK, thanks Radial and tell Sethy your welcome. Never know when I might run across more of them little boogers! | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 117 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 117 | daaaa, pressure treated, it will out live us n the truck
care to chat write back
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 | New pressure treated wood has a higher copper content than the old copper arsenic based and must be used with stainless nails because the formula used corrodes steel. The new stuff significantly more corrosive -- 5 times more to common steel, according to American Wood Preservers Association. Due to the galvanic reaction between the copper and steel, fasteners should be stainless steel or copper. At the very least, you need to use a good grade of galvanized fasteners. I would think that there may be an issue with it sitting on your frame. I put some non-galvanized screws in some about 4 years ago and they turned to mush. Maybe some rubber or something between the wood and the truck to keep the wood from rubbing the paint off of the frame. Just a thought. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 196 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 196 | i used steel blocks they will last a few years mayby cheaper also i sell all my wood a buck a foot fir alder and ceder | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 | i used oak which i had laying around. varnished it too. TIP: put two pieces of rubber one on top and one on the bottom of each wood block https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=67634&Number=487652#Post487652
Last edited by carolines truck; 01/04/2009 12:10 AM.
Jim & Caroline The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense." Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | I'm about to begin the installation of my new Mar-K bed kit and I'm going to make my underbed frame supports out of cypress. It's naturally weatherproof and holds up real well.
Spot
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 | TIP:: here is a diagram of what i did to help quiet the bed just a little bit more. i used a hardwood for the blocks and used two pieces of rubber ... one on each side of the wood block. http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view¤t=9A-3.jpg
Last edited by carolines truck; 03/15/2009 2:30 AM.
Jim & Caroline The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense." Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 | can I use just rubber blocks? like the ones that stack on the ends of shocks. Thanx | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Mmmm, I would think they would eventually "settle" or maybe even rot depending on the type rubber. What about a polyurethane or a piece or stock I always called poly pinko?!
For me I used the wooden blocks but cut up pieces of an old fire hose and used top and bottom. The hoses are rubber lined with several plys of stuff including a type of polyester on the outside that will not rot..... this is just for info/idea's. | | |
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