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Joined: Oct 2006
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'Bolter
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Need a reading by a real wood worker, I just know there are some woodworking experts out there. We're all aware that the bed wood for an AD was originaly Southern Yellow Pine, which by the way is about imposable to find now days. At least, that's what I have found here in the mid-west.
But does anyone know for sure what species the under-bed support wood was?
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


Denny G
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ha ha ha ,try pressure treated wood, thats what i did ! should last...................


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I believe it was Ash Denny.
cheap but dense grained, from what was left of my blocks I would lean towards Ash.
Tim


1952 Chevy Shortbed

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If It Aint Broke Fix It Till It Is!
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I agree Radial, with the extra parts that came with out truck the blocks were ash, definitely looked like they could have been original blocks!

Last edited by coach-frank; 08/06/2008 3:11 PM.
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Thanks guy I'll pick up a few pieces next time I'm up for may guitar lesson, theres the "Hardwood Connection" just up the street from there. I'll see if I can get a few nice clear 8/4 lengths. I haven't had them out yet but they are actually still in excelent condition, from what I can see. But I'm just playing what if.
Denny G

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


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Stopped by the Hard wood shop yesterday and they don't haves White Ash but they can get it, runs $5.95 bd/ft. The guy suggested Osage Orange at $13.95 bd/ft which he has in stock. Asked again about clear Southern Yellow Pine and got the NG sign as usual.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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Which ever you choose take an old tip from Radial....soak them in some preservative before installing. As for boards Radial suggests standing them in a pan of preservative and let them soak to help prevent premature end cracking ect...thanks Tim, I'll never for get that tip!!(And to think I use to do woodwork)

I have some close grain Oak that I'm going to use for my panel supports blocks. Its tight grain and I will soak them. I can't complain as they were free. My friend planned them and brought them to me!


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Alvin,
if you can find a qrt.of Nelsonite that is the best stuff for wood stabilazation, I do believe they make a more user freindly version of it now ...Nelsonite in the day we used it heavily was well NOT healthy stuff to use without a respirator an spray booth.
but for Soaking end grain blocks it would be great!...no mist in the air to breath in.
OOH AN ALVIN Sethy said THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! for the 2 dollar bills ...he is up too 22 of em in his savin box.
Tim


1952 Chevy Shortbed

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OOOOOK, thanks Radial and tell Sethy your welcome. Never know when I might run across more of them little boogers!


1937 Chevy Pickup
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1952 Chevy Panel
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
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daaaa, pressure treated, it will out live us n the truck


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New pressure treated wood has a higher copper content than the old copper arsenic based and must be used with stainless nails because the formula used corrodes steel. The new stuff significantly more corrosive -- 5 times more to common steel, according to American Wood Preservers Association. Due to the galvanic reaction between the copper and steel, fasteners should be stainless steel or copper. At the very least, you need to use a good grade of galvanized fasteners. I would think that there may be an issue with it sitting on your frame. I put some non-galvanized screws in some about 4 years ago and they turned to mush. Maybe some rubber or something between the wood and the truck to keep the wood from rubbing the paint off of the frame. Just a thought.

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i used steel blocks they will last a few years mayby cheaper also i sell all my wood a buck a foot fir alder and ceder

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i used oak which i had laying around. varnished it too.

TIP:
put two pieces of rubber one on top and one on the bottom of each wood block

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=67634&Number=487652#Post487652

Last edited by carolines truck; 01/04/2009 12:10 AM.

Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
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I'm about to begin the installation of my new Mar-K bed kit and I'm going to make my underbed frame supports out of cypress. It's naturally weatherproof and holds up real well.

Spot


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
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TIP::
here is a diagram of what i did to help quiet the bed just a little bit more.
i used a hardwood for the blocks and used two pieces of rubber ... one on each side of the wood block.

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=9A-3.jpg

Last edited by carolines truck; 03/15/2009 2:30 AM.

Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
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can I use just rubber blocks? like the ones that stack on the ends of shocks.
Thanx

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Mmmm, I would think they would eventually "settle" or maybe even rot depending on the type rubber. What about a polyurethane or a piece or stock I always called poly pinko?!

For me I used the wooden blocks but cut up pieces of an old fire hose and used top and bottom. The hoses are rubber lined with several plys of stuff including a type of polyester on the outside that will not rot..... this is just for info/idea's.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile

Moderated by  klhansen 

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