The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Electric Foot Starter?

I didn't find anything when I searched the archives, so here goes.

I am putting a 250 in my '56 3105 on a V-8 bell housing. That requires me to use the V-8 starter, none of which will work the foot or "stomp" starter.

I like that feature, so here is what I came up with; use a John Deere or International, etc. tractor push starter. They are made to carry battery amperage, so they will for sure carry enough amps to excite the solenoid! Run a hot lead from a hot terminal to the tractor switch and from the switch to the solenoid. Seems to me that should work fine. Fuse to taste. Those tractor switches are to short though, so use an original stomp starter top cap, cut or grind it flat on the back, weld on a piece of pipe that will fit over the tractor starter cap, and add a couple of set screws to hold it down.

You could even use the original switch from the "stomp" type starter if you insulate the back.

This looks good to me but I may have missed something. Anyone see any problems with this approach?

Thanks in advance and best wishes,

Les

Interesting concept. Looks to me like it should work. You'll have to adapt some sort of spring arrangement on your petal to give it the feel of a stomp petal.

most things take a little more effort than anticipated but it sure sounds like a neat idea. One of a kind!

Les, I wouldn't expect any less from you

Those starter switches are the same as your high beam switch. Should work OK. Why not just install a starter button?

BIG,

They may look the same but that's about it...totally different inside. You can't judge a switch by its cover.

Stuart

They would work with the assist of a relay.

The HI/LO beam switch is a maintained double pole switch...once you pushed it, the starter would keep spinning until you pushed it again. Sort of scary to think about.

Stuart

I would use a momentary switch mounted to the stomp mechanism and a battery contactor.

Cole Hersey manufactures the momentary battery contactor that you mentioned, however I never could get them to last that long due to arc flashing of the contacts because the switch is not an over-center design that positively engages.

Your best bet is to use the standard starter, wire the S terminal to the B terminal on the starter then use a contactor like the White Rodgers 120 series that handle 200+ amps.

Then be creative and mount a simple momentary switch to pilot the contactor. The switch will need only a 5 amp contact rating

If you can get this done, you at least preserve the masher starter as the means to engage the starter motor in cranking the engine.

I'm also curious how you will connect and attach the basic masher-pedal linkage to the bell housing. On the original stomper starter linkage, the yoke that the pedal is attached to is mounted to an "ear" on the right and left side of the bell housing. Mashing the pedal actuates the whole affair and there is an arc or rotation as the yoke moves. The original lever attached to the yoke actuates the lever on the starter motor as well as pressing the electrical switch button. I believe you intend to use the lever on the yoke to actuate the tractor starter button. Get everything lined up and make sure the motion of all of the apparatus clears the various parts, and you have a masher starter.

Be aware, however, that the action will not be exactly the same since you wont be engaging the starter motor pinion into the flywheel (that will be done by the solenoid), but if everything works, you should have a good impression of using a masher or stomper starter to crank up your truck.

Good luck and let us know how it works.

Alvin,

You are just to Kind!

Les

@ waldo53, Good idea, thanks! That would make the switch a bit stiffer and still hide inside the rubber bellows.

@ Glenn A. Foster, I'll have to remove all of the original linkage.It won't work on my bellhousing anyway. Figuring out a way to have not only the "look" but the function of the floor pedal got me started on this in the first place.

@ everyone else, I have the switch in hand. The "neck" is only about 3", but it is rated for 80A! The switch is SPST momentary contact. Dimmer switch is SPDT locking. It'll only have to handle relatively low amperage. Worst comes to worst, I could throw a F**d solenoid in the heavy battery cable like mad electrical's "start 'em up" kit.

Thanks for the replies and best wishes,

Les

Roadmarks,

The inrush current for a starter solenoid is very minimal so your 80 amp switch is more than adequate...good luck!

Stuart

This is a link for the switch. https://secure.oemtractorparts.net/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=22&idproduct=564

Just received this part today. I plan on doing the same thing on my 261/700r4 in order to retain my foot starter. I really appreciate the idea about the pipe and set screws. That should work well.

I've actually had a similar idea. I was at Tractor Suppply and they had several different variations on the foor pedal switch. My other thought is to use a later model ignition switch and solenoid setup to work in tandem. Sort of a poor mans security system. The key would have to be turned and the pedal pressed at the same time in order for it to turn over.

Roadmarks
@ everyone else, I have the switch in hand. The "neck" is only about 3", but it is rated for 80A! The switch is SPST momentary contact. Dimmer switch is SPDT locking. It'll only have to handle relatively low amperage. Worst comes to worst, I could throw a F**d solenoid in the heavy battery cable like mad electrical's "start 'em up" kit.

Exactly what switch do you have. Whats the part # and where did you get it. I have been wanting to do this to my 37 GMC but am not at that point yet so I have not even started to research any switches

Shoer,

I got my switch off a no name parts table at an antique engine and tractor show last summer. Might be IH. Only # is "80A" on the side. I'd look for a starter switch at Tractor Supply.

Best wishes,

Les