The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
8 members (Materman, cmayna, Rusted Nut, Stovebolt48, Hugh63c10, RoadsScholar, moparguy, SNOYL), 100 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,070
Posts1,055,892
Members48,428
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#476756 11/30/2008 7:55 AM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 45
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 45
I'm about to tackle the brakes on our 1950 6400.

It looks like everything is shot - so I'm going to tear everything off and start from scratch. Currently, the plan is to put things back together "stock looking" , but I'm looking to those of you that have done this before for advice.

Since I already have to buy a new master cylinder and Hydavac and lines and wheel cylinders, does anyone recommend a particular one over another? Is there a particularly great master cylinder or Hydravac to find, or is the stock replacement stuff at my local Napa Auto Parts dealer gonna do a good job?

Last edited by Jim A; 11/30/2008 8:20 AM.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
If you wanted to update the brake system, but still have a Hydrovac, then take a look at the catalogs at NAPA.
They offer (original for other model vehicles) newer style Hydrovacs.
You may want to swap to a dual circuit master cylinder, and use dual Hydrovac, this was standard practice on a number of vehicles.

A cheaper simpler solution would be a dual circuit master cylinder with attached booster, still mounted under the floor.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
T
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
T Offline
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
I think a 2 reservoir master is a good idea. I redid my brakes, rebuilt hydrovac - the master cylinder is kind of spooky, its so small. But I will say its got the best working brakes of any antique I have ever had. Like I said, some up grades Iam sure would be good, but the old system will surprise you - atleast it did me. Good luck with yours.

Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 86
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 86
Will any of the newer Hydravacs and dual resevoir cylinders bolt up to a 59 Viking 60 where the master is under the floor?


Matt

"Brunhilde II" '59 Viking 60
To paraphrase Ben Franklin: "Big Bolts are proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy"
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
A Hydrovac as I understand it is a remote mounted brake booster. It hangs on the frame wherever you want to put it, this system uses an ordinary master cylinder in the stock location.
If you had a dual Hydrovac system it would be two identical Hydrovacs usually mounted side by side on the frame fed by an ordinary dual circuit master cylinder.

To upgrade a truck that originally had either no Hydrovac or only a single one to now have dual Hydrovacs will involve finding a dual reservoir master cylinder with the proper bore and making or finding an aftermarket bracket to mount it. You may luck into a bolt on replacement dual circuit master in the later years, I'm not sure.

I think if you are going to update the MC and booster and no longer be original then a better solution than using dual Hydrovacs is to use a more modern master and booster bolted together as a unit. This will be a more reliable and cheaper system.

Even better yet though. If you already have a power steering pump then I highly recommend a hydrobooster, it is small, compact, powerful, and works off the PS pressure. I have had a few Hydroboosters, and really like them, doubt I ever use a vacuum booster again. (But they are not recommended for drum only brakes on a small vehicle, larger trucks are OK with drums though.)

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 581
M
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
M Offline
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 581
Originally Posted by Jim A
I'm about to tackle the brakes on our 1950 6400.

Since I already have to buy a new master cylinder and Hydavac and lines and wheel cylinders, does anyone recommend a particular one over another? Is there a particularly great master cylinder or Hydravac to find, or is the stock replacement stuff at my local Napa Auto Parts dealer gonna do a good job?


Jim, you Left-Bankers (Californians) think bigger than this mid-westerner, and Grigg is clearly one of the biggest thinkers - and do-ers! - of all. But I'm wondering what your ultimate goal is for this truck, and why you're contemplating a complicated procedure. If you have the original (but maybe shot?) hydrovac, why not get it rebuilt? I think rebuilding all the brakes (pads, cylinders, master, lines, etc.), and the hydrovac, AND, making sure the emergency brake functions properly, would be sufficient for a truck that shouldn't be driven that fast to begin with.

Of course, California isn't as flat as the Midwest, I'll grant you, and I know modern traffic can be challenging. But I put more faith in a simple, but reliable system, with appropriate driving habits, then in more modern but complicated technology that still can't overcome poor decisions.

This, however, is the opinion of a guy who, after 4 years of driving into and out of the same garage behind his house every day, managed to back into a tree next to the driveway. (it was dark, and raining . . . and, and . . . REALLY foggy . . . yeah . . . that's the ticket!) dang

-Michael


Please type slow, as I can't read very fast.

1939 Chevy/Central Fire Engine
1941 Chevy/American Fire Engine
1950 Chevy/American Fire Engine
In the Gallery
More Photos in Me Gallery
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 502
G
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
G Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 502
Jim,
You might want to consider how much driving you intend for your truck or what kind of loads it will be carrying.
I feel the stock brake system functioning like it should is enough brake for your truck, but then you didn't say how you intend to use it.
I'm doing brakes on my 2ton and cost is coming into play and if you add it up it will be easy to well exceed 1000 dollars just for parts.
Now if money is of no concern then I would put on what ever tripped my trigger.
I drove my truck home when I bought it not knowing the rears were froze up and did ok with just the fronts working, so i know this thing will stop just fine once the whole system is working.
With a six series gear in the diff I can't go to fast anyway
Dan


Remember your freedom - US Veterans provided it.
101st Screaming Eagles
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
I just replaced the original hydro on my 48 this year and it cost my $280.00 with a core. I wanted to buy a new style since I was sure the 48's style was no longer available. Since I didn't have a core (they have to be the same hydro as the new one to be accepted as a core) it would have cost me nearly $400.00, just for the hydro-vac. I definately wouldn't install two for that kind of money. My other 48 has a dual res master with a booster mounted under the floor. Total investment was only about $50.00 for the new master. I had a good used booster and fabbed up my own mounting system and replumbed it myself. This truck has twice the braking power with less effort over the original one. In my opinion, do a booster,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!

Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0