The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Brake Shoe Spring Tool

When using the special pliers to remove the brake shoe return spring, I have problems with the end of the pliers that contact the shoe. The brake shoe return spring has good tension, and tends to cause the end of the pliers to dig into the shoe causing damage, like a divit. I am not too happy about causing damage to the shoe. Anybody have ideas on how not to cause damage to the shoe? Any mods to the tool that are simple and effective?
See link:
http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo352/46Canopy/KMO-142.jpg

Thanks,

Dale

There is no way I know of getting around the little hole in the lining when you use the correct tool. If it bothers you, I usually clamp a vice grip to the spring and pry it in with a pry bar. That's because I'm too lazy to go get the correct tool out of the room where we keep our special tools.

I had the same problem. What I did is simple. Go to Home Depot and get a short piece of aluminum the same width of the shoe and bend it to the shape. Leave it long enough so you can curl it around the ends of the shoe. You may hae to cut a slit to clear parts of the shoe, then slide it on. Instant armor.

Rick...........

For bonded shoes, there is no way out. For riveted shoes, you place the pointy part in one of the rivet holes. Having a divet in the material won't be an issue as far as braking goes. Most of these brake tool pliers have a spoon type of look to one handle where you can use it to slide the spring over its keeper. But that spoon needs something to grab on to. The only time I had to use pliers to stretch the spring over the keeper was on tractor truck brakes. The little brakes ( passenger car and trucks ) you usually slide the springs in to place. Hard to describe, easier to show. Looking at your picture, the divet is the only way.

Actually, there is one more way. I had a buddy who used to assemble as many of the springs as he could then pull the shoes over to their anchor points. Doing it his method, I would attach the left shoe, put the spring on, then pull the shoe over it's upper mounting points ( the wheel cylinder ), then pull the bottom of the shoe on to the bottom anchor. Gently using a soft blow hammer to nudge it around.

Grab the spring with vice grips and pull. sometimes leaves a compression mark on the spring. I have used both methods neither have any effect on the brakes. I have several hundred brake jobs behind me at Pep Boys.

Brad

K-D makes a different variation of that tool that has a spring loaded pad on it instead ot the pointy spike. You should be able to find one at any parts stroe that carries K-D. Tht one doesn't leave any marks on the friction material.

Just stick a small piece of wood under the end, between the Bake Pliers, and the shoe. Works like a champ, and is free.
Christopher

I got one of my old belts, I tighten it around the brakes shoes, that way the hole is punched into the leather of the belt and not the shoe. I had to put an exta belt hole in it so I could get a good tight strap on it but it works pretty well.


Ed

That Ed, is a good idea!
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Good ideas gentlemen. Rick, I like your idea, it makes good practical sense. I can use an old brake shoe, and place it into a vise and form the thin aluminum using a mallet to form it to the shoe. This is something I can work on and throw into my toolbox for future use. I can use it on all fours since they are the same on a 41-46 ½ truck. In fact, I can even make one for the larger trucks when I get around to it. There is always room in the toolbox for an additional tool!

Christopher, that is exactly what I have been doing. The small wooden block. Except, with the tension of the spring, the wooden block was always sliding around the shoe causing additional frustrations. Unfortunately I do not have the hands of a surgeon, necessitating additional time, patience and walk-around breaks so I don’t wind up pulling my hair out.

Bill, I checked KD’s website out, and could only find the tool similar to the one in the photo in the first posting.

Ed, I like your idea too. For some reason, I have a hard time tossing away old parts. Even if they are old leather, rubber, beat-up metal. I am sure I can do the belt around the shoes thusly providing a non-slip surface. Thanks.

I could swear the one I have is a K-D, maybe it's not. I'll have to take a look at it when I go back to work on Thursday. Or maybe they don't make that one anymore, I'll check mine to be sure, though.
I'll toss out another tip while we're talking about not damaging brake friction material. I saw this in issue of 4 Wheel & Off Road way back when I was in high school. Take some masking tape and apply it to the friction surfaces, this keeps any contaminants that might be on your hands (oil, brake fluid, brake lube) from getting on the friction surface.

Denny,

The nice thing about using the belt is you don't need three hands to put everything together, just get it all set where you want it than strap it on.

Ed

Im with Ed Blouch on this. Its the easiest,cheapest, and most practical!!

Herre is my take on this one ...Yrs ago i modified a big bodied 12" flat blade screwdriver by grinding the flare off the sides at the tip so it is straight an ground a little bit of concave on one side, just put the spring on the shaft of the screwdriver with a shot of white grease on the screwdriver shaft, place the concave on the button of the spring stud ..pry an the spring will slide down the shaft an pop onto the stud with NO MESS AN NO FUSS ..
Just how I DO IT.
Tim

Tim, growing up I used a phillips screwdriver MANY times. A poor boy uses what he can get his hands on!!

EDIT: and I didn't even have any grease!

That is the "spoon" type of end that I mentioned any good brake tool would have. Works great over studs and spring hooks. Unfortunately, it doesn't work so well when you are trying to get the spring in to a slot. No grease required, the spring will slide.

SWRADIAL,,,,Sounds like a good idea,'cept for when i do brakes,i dont want any grease anywhere around my parts.

Well, you should be lubing your wear pads between the shoe and the backing plate. You should also be lubing your adjustment wheel threads.