The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop paint removal sand or media blasting questions

Hey everyone,
I have a question. I am working on a 56 stepside with really no rust through, but it does have 3 different coats of paint on it. I wanted to try sand or media blasting it off. I know sand will warp panels, but wondered has anyone else taken this approach? waht media was used?

anyone with any experience at all will not warp a panel of the older made steel. Check and ask around. One place often overlooked it the monument place. We have a place here with a guy who has been blasting car parts for over 20 years with the same company. They are also usually a little cheaper. Just besure and ask the rates BEFORE doing anythig, anywhere!

If you just want to remove the paint why not use paint stripper or a grinder with one of THESE DISKS? Yes, the link isn't for the correct version but those things are the BEST thing I've found for removing paint and you can now get them for shop grinders. It will go through paint fast and not remove a molecule of steel.

Personally, I use one of THESE and love it. Some of the best money I've spent on my truck. Stripped two fenders, a hood and will probably get most of the cab stripped with a single disk.

Of course if you want your truck blasted, go for it but expect blasting sand to continue seeping out of every nook and cranny for a very long time.

Good luck!

I sand blast all my parts including cabs, doors, and etc. I've never had a panel warp. Sand blasting also gets into all the nook and crannies, it's faster and cheaper than stripper, sanding or grinding.

Frank

I used CitriStrip, available at Home Depot, Walmart and other fine stores. About $11 a quart, and safe to use, no bad odors.
I had 3 coats of paint over the factory paint on the "Bomber" and it took off about 80% on the first application!! Best in warmer weather, but it worked great, Faster than sanding, and cheap to use.

Mike

Woody, that is an interesting tool; I'd like to try it out but mine is already blasted. However I'm also too lazy to do anything but sandblast.

Woody, I suppose it all depends on conditions. I had my son to use the stripping disk, after I tried it for an hour or so, and at about $8 a pop it would have cost me a fortune to strip the many layers off the panel! So, I started blasting. Which I have gave up after this one. I sold my pressureizde blaster and if wont' go in my blasting cabinet it goes to the "blasting man"!

That's okay Alvin, I've come to the conclusion that I live on a parallel universe anyway... but I'm not complaining. Things just work better here.

Czechman. I do see that you blast some of the parts in your project. When you say you sandblast parts, are you using a blast cabinet or are you out in the open? Smaller parts fit in a cabinet, but larger things seem to need to be done outside. I was thinking about installing a curtain in the front corner stall of my garage to use as a blast area / paint area. I know that I would have to clean up all the dust between. I guess I am hoping to be able to reuse the aluminum oxide media by sweeping it up and sifting out the dirt. I just reviewed your cab photos. WOW, it took me a while. I have similar work to do, but I hope that mine goes more smoothly. I don't think I have any damage or welded in patches to undo.

I will probably use a combination of methods to remove the rust/ paint, but would like to blast the lower front cab corners so that I can see how much good metal is left.

Todd

Todd,

I have a small table top blasting cabinet that I bought at HF which I use for small parts. I also have a syphon blaster which I use outside in the carport. I don't have room for a real blasting cabinet so I have to make do. The tarp catches most of the Black Diamond media that I use. I can sweep up and sift all that mess in a half hour. I recycle about 80% this way. PICTURE

I would never blast indoors unless it was in a room where I did nothing else. The amount of dust generated is considerable.

I like the Norton RapidStrip discs for a 7" variable speed grinder. You have to make sure you use a moderate speed and don't press too hard or they melt the paint and load up. Two or three should get you through the whole body of the truck unless there was gummy house paint involved.

A blaster is fast but isn't typically DIY for the whole truck unless you have a huge air compressor.

Czechman,

Thanks for the quick reply. I have a small area next to my shop that is just about as big as your blasting area. Your picture gives me an idea. I wonder if I might be able to make a 3 wall box with PVC and then drape tarp over it. I should be able to capture most of the media that way. It does look like you are able to contain most of it even without side walls.

What do you use to sift it before reuse and how many times do you think that you can reuse it before it either breaks down or clogs up with dust?

I experimented with adding a second tarp which would have blocked the view of the picture I linked to. The problem is the wind. You get that much material up and the wind can lift it unless you fasten it down securely. I figure that if I can recycle 80% of my $7.50-a-bag blasting grit (Black Diamond) I'm past the point of diminishing return aggravating myself going through the time and trouble of trying to save more.

I've never thrown away any "used" media. I don't see it turning to powder/dust so I just keep recycling and adding new to keep my levels up. I don't believe I use enough pressure with a syphon blaster to shatter the media. People look down their noses at syphon blasters but the parts you see in THIS PHOTO were done in two hours. I consider the $100 I spent on that to be some of the best money I've ever spent on tools.

If you notice, there is a tall kitchen trash can sitting on a hand truck in the previous photo. On top of that trash can is a white box-like thing. That is my sifter and it uses a piece of aluminum window screen to sift. I have recently bought a large food strainer which I use if I only use a little.

Hope all this helps.

Czechman
What kind of blaster do you have , wher did you get it and what is the air requirement? I am 2 weeks from a 16 cfm Ingersol 80 gl tank.
Brad

I have a THIS syphon blaster. Your compressor should be able to handle the task.

I just used Aircraft paint remover on my 56 project and i was thrilled with its performance. Being an old guy I always do these projects the same way each time. I went to borrow a media blaster from a buddy and he said keep it I have a stripper I use now instead.
Ebay had it for $35 a gallon and its going to take 4 to do an entire truck. You have to really slop it on to have it work right, and the paint literally starts running off and the bare metal is exposed. some areas took 2 applications. A plastic scraper pushes the dead paint off and a shot w/ the hose stops the process. I completely finished down to light sanding stage the hood, front fenders, and the entire bed in 5 hours.

Trouble with chemical stripping is getting every bit of it back off. It will get into places you cannot imagine and wait for the new paint to show up.
Media blasting has a simular draw back, but atleast something not found with it will not attack the new paint.
I guess thats why chemicals on auto are best dipped.
It hurts me when i see someone using abbrasive disks and grinders on car bodies.

no grinders for me. for me I thought about the chemical thing surfacing again after paint. I am handwashing the entire piece with water and soap, then power washing the piece within an inch of its like. I am hoping this process repeated a few times on each piece will take care of the hiding chemicals.

This is the one I am looking at.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_35688_-1______14151%7C14152%7C14169%7C35688?listingPage=true&Special=false

Brad

That is a good compressor. I purchased one last winter when my Craftsman laid down on me. I have a Blaster and this compressor will shut off on me while blasting. I love it.

Chad

I used the Tractor supply 10% coupon last sat and got this
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_35688_-1______14151%7C14152%7C14169%7C35688?listingPage=true&Special=false
still in garage on skid waitin for enough to wire it in....

can I leave it on the skid or do I have to bolt to concrete?

Brad

It is best to anchor the compressor, even the size and weight of the unit you purchased, to keep it from walking while operating...speaking from personal experience.

Nice purchase.

I read to use steel shims in the book, but the 800# said to use rubber isloator bushings, conflicting with their book.
Any suggestions?
Brad

I agree with 56 stepside on the Aircraft stripper, however I get mine at Carquest for a little less than that on Ebay. It does work best on warm days. I remember doing a project and watching the 3 coats of paint including the original factory paint nearly sliding off the rear quarter and onto the floor in a short time. I also learned that if you dont wash it shortly after removing the paint it will flash rust. I generally washed the bare metal with soap and water, hosed the car down with a spray of a conversion coating, dry with compressed air, and then coat with a non sanding zinc chromate epoxy primer.

I have also had parts sand blasted (dont recommend), media blasted (recommend), acid dipped (recommend), and I have used the 3M paint removal discs (recommend for small areas only)

That is my 3 cents worth.

Scott

Well I started this one, so heres how it went for me. I went to borrow a sand blaster and the guy told me keep it, he uses aircraft paint stripper. I bought the non odor one and went to town. I strongly suggest using in warm environment and really slop it on heavy. I noticed if you put it on light, it is not nearly as effective. It took 3 gallons to do an entire 1956 long bed pickup. the directions say to wash off w/ clean water after each application, but I didnt do this. I left it on and just kept applying more over the top of what was already there. once as much paint as I thought would come off, had come off, I scraped everything loose and then used water and a mild detergent to relieve the body of any chemical left overs. I then bought lots and lots of coarse stick on sandpaper pads for my drill and went to town. I "rough" sanded the entire truck one end to the other including the other side of the fenders in 16 hours total. I then moved to medium grit, then fine grit. all looks good.

BRSDB3381 - I have the same air compresser except it is 60 gal and 3 HP. I left it on the pallet. Didn't bolt it or shim it at all. I've had it for 6 months now and use it almost every day. It hasn't moved at all.

I tried sandblasting with a pot and it was so messy and aggravating I just found a local guy who uses glass bead media and soda. Works very well, and I don't have to deal with the mess! Anyone interested in a used sandblasting pot!?