The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop to blast or not to blast that is the ?

Lye, Sodium Hydroxide, Caustic Soda or what ever the name you go by, how do you neutralize it so it's. I need for it to be safe enough to pour down the gravel drive out back of the barn when I'm finished with it with out killing all the night creatures in the neighborhood?
I had an uncle that rebuilt a BIG old John Deere with steel wheels and all. He cleaned the castings up by soaking them for a few days in Lye and they did look like brand new. Wish he were still around so I could ask him how he dealt with the aftermath.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Sodium Hydroxide or Caustic soda as you've said normally comes in a granualated form.
Once mixed with water and used for a job, and if you are connected to the sewer, it can be thrown down the sink or toilet........this is what they make drain cleaner out of !!!!!!!!!

Matter of fact, that is the cheapest and easiest way to purchase small amounts of it.....drain cleaner from the local Hardware store, pure Sodium Hydroxide.

Otherwise it can be poured on the ground and it will neutralize as it dries or simply water down over time.
It is not a poisionous chemical....but very nasty to skin tissue when hot and activated.

One last thing Denny.......we use a Molasses/water mix to the same effect for metal stripping.
Is this the same as Lye?

I would have to see the Molasses trick to believe it, I have serious doubts about that. I just happen to have a bottle of "Grandma’s Molasses" that's been on the shelf since '89, never could figure out what to use it for. Think I'll mix up a batch and test the myth. I'll let you know from an unbiased angle if it is fact or fiction, I’ll even take some pictures along the way to go with the report.
Ya do have a point thar Doc, I have used it for cleaning the drains at times. Still don't feel safe pouring it into the ground with out knowing to what strength it has to be to be diluted. Isn't there something that will neutralize it, like mixing it with vinegar or baking soda or some thing like that.....I’m not a chemist, can ya tell..?

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Ratios, need some ratios for that molasses!
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny, check out the tech/tips section. There is an article in there about this and gives a ration. I think its one quart to 5 gal of water?
I would look but....me tired, me go to bed!

Oh, Denny, there is another thread in this same forum with a stovebolter doing the "test". I looked at and followed a test before and it had good results but it takes looonger.

Hey Alvin, I just got to the forum, mama's having her ball joints replaced this week so I'll need to spend some time tending to her needs.
Yes I finally got around to reading the article by Barry Weeks. Still have my doubts, I'd like to see/hear the science behind this. However, like I said, I do have this Jar of "Grandma's Molasses" that I've been wanting to get rid of for a couple of decades. I just hate to throw any thing away, so I'm gonna try it in a bucket with a spare differential cover that I've got here.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny, Google Rustbeeter and check out the results on the My Tractor Forum. I'm tempted to give it a try as it supposed be safe and harmless to the enviroment.
Cleon

Gudday Denny,
Sorry can't give you a magic formula to dilute the caustic soda.
In the small amounts that we are talking about, it is'nt a threat to the environment or local wildlife.

I know af a few blokes that have usrd the Molasses treatment, but yes, it is a very long wait for the process to fully do its job.
If you don't mind waiting a week just to clean your diff pan, give it a bash!

31,32,33: I read about the Rustbeeter when it came out a couple years or so ago. If I remember correctly it was about $45 for a 5 gal pail. Heck, even molasses ain't that high to mix up a bucket! Like you, I'm still tempted to try some but I'm getting to the end of my "rust bucket" so I probably won't.

Denny, hope Mama's new ball joints work OK.

(oh, I'll have to let you know the PLASTIC Media Blasting goes on my panel body. I'll start a post when I get it back) Friday.

I too have been wondering about whether to media blast the fenders and hood on the '49. This morning I made a decision. After looking at the economics of the different paths to take.
I loaded my black and decker sander with 80 grit paper and sanded the loose rust off the undersides of the fenders and washed them with greased lightning soap and a brush . After drying in the sun, I painted the undersides with POR 15. Now I need to build a couple of stands for the fenders and sand the thin original paint off of them. And prime and paint.
Cleon

Here is a post with my results using drain cleaner (OMG) it worked pretty well.

Maybe I'm missing something Eric, it appears from the pictures that the drain cleaner didn't touch the rust. I have used products like DeRustIt and they do remove all of the rust and what your left with is just bare steel.
As I've noted before, I had an uncle that used lye to clean castings and they would come out looking like the day they first came out of the foundry.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Jon,

With my frame all I'm doing is using a wire brush and wire wheel to remove as much loose rust particles as possible, then coating with POR-15. I've coated a few parts with POR-15 a few years ago and it really did stop the rust from coming through or damaging the parts more. I could blast my frame but since I'm not removing the engine and transmission from the chassis I don't want to chance getting any sand into them. I'm not going for a show truck either, just a nice work truck to drive and enjoy, so if the frame is pitted and bumpy in spots I'm not concerned. I'll try to get some pictures posted up in the next few days to show the progress.

~Neil

Neail,
Boy, That would be great! Thank you for taking the time to do that. Jon

I finally had a chance to upload some pictures of the frame. If I have a chance later today I'll also post up the pictures of the cab and other parts of the truck I've been working on. I've just been brushing on the POR-15 and it's been coming out great (besides the occasional bristle from the cheap brushes, but whatever).

1955 Chevy 3200

what type media did you use?

58stepside:
Plastic or soda blasting will NOT take off ANY rust..period!!
It will roll the PAINT off but thats it. I know from first hand experience.
If you have ANY rust I would use sand. Here I can get 3 kinds from the local concrete place. It is "sized" and comes in extra fine, fine, and medium. I like the fine. I also usually sift and reuse it once. I pay 3.28 a 50lb bag.
Some will argue it takes off metal...and it does. But unless you have a delicate piece you should be alright and pleased with the results.
You could also conside the molasses and the electronic way but I think for most big items sand blasting is the way to go! My opinion!!

I have found out that using a fine grade of sand blasing media seems to work the best on rust.

Just what are you guys considering a fine grade of sand? 60Mesh or? That is about as fine as I can get here. They use it alot for blasting brick and stucto for painting. Ti seems a little rough for metal. I was think about using Walnut or Pecan shells.
62Blue
Don

Don, the bags I buy does not list it in "grit" size. Some other form of measurement is used and I don't have a bag in the shop right now. Perhaps someone else knows.

Remove the paint with a chemical paint remover. Sand blast the rusted areas. I used a spray on remover from the auto parts place then sanded what was left. It does make a mess. The paint that was still hanging on I hit with a wire brush on a side grinder. If you get to heavy on the grinder on a large panel you can also warp the metal. Blasting is a good way to deal with rust. The frame is a good place for a blaster. That is if you remove everything that you don't want to get sand in. It will work it's way into bearings etc. There are great products out there to deal with the frame but one of em is not bed liner.