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Joined: Nov 2006
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New Guy
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Howdy, Fellas! Glad to be aboard. Been looking through all the posts in Big Bolts; a heckuva lotta good info for all. I have a beauty '53 4400 in cherry shape - 40,000 original miles, a retired fire truck from MN that was well cared for. She was a bit neglected in recent years, i.e., not driven, but now she is saved and ready for the road. However, gotta clean out that gas tank. I have some ideas, but I'd rather listen to the Big Bolters and see what they have to say about it. The exterior of the tank is in excellent shape, no visible rust of any kind. As always, the inside is a different story. I am open to getting a new tank, as long as it's stock to the 4400; however, I think this one is salvageable. Any and all suggestions welcome.


Vintage Chevy Trucks Rule!
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'Bolter
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Hack 85,

Find a local "Chemical Strip" place near you and have them clean it for you. There chemicals won't hurt the tank and will clean it right down to the tin coating. I had mine done for about $135.

I've heard others say they've had there local radiator shop "hot tank" a gas tank to clean them. I've never done one this way, so I can't tell you how well it works.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

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If the inside isn't rusty, have it steam cleaned. That way you won't have to coat the inside.

Bruce


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One of the best things you can do to a old fuel tank is have it boiled out at a radator shop then coated on the inside. That is the cheapest insurance you can have done. On the out side you can spray it with a cold galvinize spray then use a good mailbox silver on top if it's on the outside of the truck. If you have it on the inside you can get the treated tar type paper orginally used to cover the tank.
62Blue
Don


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Thanks to all for your replies! I am gonna shop around and see which of these options is the best bang for the buck.


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'Bolter
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Here's my opinion, take it or leave it. I always say, once you have rust, you always have rust. If the inside has any rust in it, replace it. More driveablity problems come from fuel starvation on these old trucks than anything else. The best bang for your buck is a fresh, clean source of fuel,
Scott


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I agree with Scott -- There is nothing more aggravating and less fun than to have your engine quit on you in traffic, on a hill, 100 miles from home in the rain because crap in the fuel line got into the carburetor (voice of experience here). As Scott says, once you have crap in the tank, every trip is a game of Russian Roulette.

Don't screw around with the old tank -- just toss it and order a new one from Jim Carter or American Classic for about $200 and the nice UPS driver puts it right on your front step. And then you're done. As in You can cross that one off your list completely. No worries, no hassles driving around here to there and wondering if they actually got it all.

I got the repop tank for my '49 4400 and it was darn near perfect. And I will never worry about crap in my tank.

Regards and welcome to the Bolt!

John


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I have had experience with a local radiator shop boiling out a tank for me and four years later I had so much rust scale that it plugged the outlet, even before the aftermarket in-line filter. Fortunately, the truck died in the driveway. I will never do this again.

This was on my 1947 Diamond T model 509. Since a repop was out of the question, I then used one of the shops that represents Gas Tank Renu. Their process is to cut holes in the tank to be able to media blast the inside. The more baffles, the more holes. If you think about it, baffles may defeat more simple solutions, making it nearly impossible to get it clean. They then braise in hole plugs. The inside and outside are coated with a type of plastic and then the tank gets baked in an oven. After shipping the tank to them, they called with a quote (about $300 for my 30 gal tank with two baffles) and a couple weeks later I had my restored tank. Three years later, NO PROBLEMS.

When I get to this point with my '50 COE, I will probably go with a repop since it would be cheaper, or if I feel especially attached to the original, I will go with Renu. I think Scott is right, once you have rust, boiling or mechanical rust removal is only delaying the inevitable. With our Chevys, we are lucky to have new ones available at a reasonable price and you can avoid John's version of Russian Roulette.

Last edited by Lightholder's Dad; 10/11/2008 4:30 AM. Reason: typo

1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix
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My two cents: I'm with Scott Ward on this one. I also tried all of the "remedies" with my '54 tank. The only effective one was when I pulled it out and replaced it. Save yourself some aggrivation. Good luck, Scott54


1954 Chevrolet 4400 1.5-Ton Dump Truck
1946 Chevy 1.5-Ton Dump Truck
1944 Chevrolet 1.5 Ton Dump Truck
1955 4400 Dump Truck
1951 2 Ton Stake Body

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