The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop More questions about hot engine.

It seems like everyone is having temperature control proplems with the summer heat, and so have I.
I have a 51 with a slightly beefed up 350. The original radiator couldn't cool the engine, so I installed an aluminum radiator, which made a big difference. It would run nice and cool on the highway, but still creep up to at least 200 in traffic in hot weather.
Last winter, I installed a new Edelbrock carb that was tuned for economy, to replace an old Holley carb. I also installed Pertronix ingition, and advanced the timing, which caused the idle speed to increse about 300 rpms, so I adjusted the idle back to about 800 rpms.
The truck ran great all spring, and it ran a lot cooler in traffic; never getting over 185. But once the summer set in, the truck still ran cool in traffic, but would get hot on the highway. I never drove it more than 12 miles at a time, so it never overheated, and I think the temp would have stabilized between 200 and 210.
Recently I drained out 1 gallon of 50/50 antifreeze and added more distilled water, and added a bottle Water Wetter. This helped some, and now it stays below 200.
My mechanic said that the Edelbrock is probably running too lean, and this will cause the engine to run hot. I ordered a tuning kit, but it hasn't arrived yet so I don't know if that will help or not yet.
So what kind of advice would you give me to keep the engine cool at speed?
How much hotter will an engine run if it carbed too lean?
What about high volume water pumps? Would that help any, and if so , how much?
I have a shroud I am working on to install, (I am using an electric fan) But I'm sure that won't help cool at speed.
Thanks for any and all advice and comments,
Mark

It sounds like everything is normal if the guages are accurate. Things will get warmer with the lack of airflow, like stop and go traffic. As long as it doesn't boil over and stays below 210 in town and comes back down going down the highway, I don't see a problem,
Scott

All engines run better above 200 degrees, at least anything made since the mid-1970's. People who insist on keeping an engine down below 180 or so don't understand that the parts are designed to have the correct running clearances above that point, and as long as the coolant doesn't boil THE ENGINE ISN'T OVERHEATING!

Engines made since the mid-1980's are intended to run a minimum of 195 degrees, since they were designed to run a thermostat that opens there. In traffic, an engine with a good radiator and a 195 degree stat will get up around 220 and stay there until the road speed increases. There's absolutely nothing wrong with running there as long as the temp doesn't go high enough to boil, 250 or so with a 15-lb. cap.

An old stovebolt with a 7-lb. cap needs to stay down around 180 or less, but a short time above 200 won't hurt anything. A 7-lb. cap will raise the boiling point to 225 degrees or so. That won't hurt a 235, or even a 216, as long as it doesn't stay there for an extended period of time.
Jerry

The shroud is going to help you even more. I agree with the above posts...you really don't have a problem, maybe just some old school ideas. As Jr. at 'Walker Radiator' told me years ago, it it isn't overflowing then it's not to hot. The water wetters I'm familiar with say a 75% water to 25% antifreeze mix is correct for the coolant with the wetter. Do a 'correct' plug reading to determined if you are too lean. I know guys who just wish they had your overhreating problem.

what about a 13lb cap on a 235????????

if it is stock... I think a 7 would be better..

the cap has much more to do with the rad than the engine, your rad isn't likely to take the pressures a 13# cap would generate with an engine running hot

Bill