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#417516 05/28/2008 12:54 PM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 112
J
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J Offline
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 112
thanks to a fellow bolter..He tells me that on my 46 panel the rear fender welting is wide and flat and the fender bolts go
through the welting..It's not the kind with the bead on it..
I have been looking through some books but can't seem to find
a supplier of this kind of welting...Any idea's...thanks in
advance....jd


1946 chevy 1/2 ton panel
1937 ford coupe
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
the original is flat on my 52 panel the same as yours. However I do "think" the felt is out there??!! It seems I did see where someone offered it?

After looking at mine I had the thought of using some of the 30# roofing felt that is used under shingles. I don't know if it'd work or not but it sure came to my mind when I looked at the original.


1937 Chevy Pickup
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1952 Chevy Panel
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
A little off topic (since the discussion has moved into Advance-Design trucks): I'll check the 47-54 Factory Assembly Manual tonight, but I think the 47-54 rear fenders on pick-up bodies did not have any fender to bed gasket/welt/felt. Nonetheless, many people used a heavy-weight roofing-felt as a seal; and, Jim Carter sells beaded welting for the A-D rear fenders. However, the 47-54 panel-body rear-fenders had beaded fender-welt as was standard for the front fenders (a small bead).

Jim Carter seems to indicate that a fender welt was not originally used on 34-46 fenders (front or rear) but he sells the 47-55 beaded felt as a non-original "extra" (for front and rear).

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D
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JDHOWARD,
Buy the welting with the bead and trim off the beaded edge. Saves trying to find an alternative!
I've been trying to find the same stuff here in Australia for 5 years now and have come to the same result...can't find nought!
I've ended up with 1/8 inch thick rubber strips that I have hole punched the bolt holes into.
Easiest way to go I reckon!
Best of luck...........Doc Bob.


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Quote-Doc Bob circa 2006

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1936 Chev 1/2-Ton Holden Body


confused? http://www.koalanet.com.au/australian-slang.html
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 320
T
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
T Offline
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Posts: 320
For what it's worth, my 51 panel apparently had beaded welting. While the bead is now gone, when the truck was repainted in the company colors that the PO used, there must of been a bead, because along the joint between fenders and body is a area of about 1/4 inch on each side that is the original color. My guess is that the bead was there when it was painted and then eroded away over time.

Last edited by The Ned; 05/31/2008 3:24 AM.

1951 Chevy 1-Ton Panel
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Now cruising in the Passing Lane
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Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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TheNed: Same thing must have happened to mine as there is no "bead" on it. Mine appears to have seen a pretty rough life or should I say "used for what it was built for". smile


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
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Posts: 4,215
Leo Offline
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My personal preference is the non-beaded welting. I hadn't thought of using felt paper or rubber strips. I have easy access to reams of rubber strips, may go that route.

Leo #418643 06/01/2008 1:01 AM
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M
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why use any than ?!


care to chat write back

Moderated by  MNSmith, Rusty Rod 

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