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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 679
T
Shop Shark
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I know about home-built pressure sprayer brake bleeder set-ups. I'm also familiar with the Mity Vac to suck the fluid out of the master cylinder, through the lines, and out through the bleeders. I was thinking about what I could use as a vacuum source without buying a Mity Vac and didn't like the idea of using my shop air compressor's inlet.

What about this:
∙Set up an external brake fluid reservoir, using tubing from a vented plastic bottle to a hose barb connected to a spare MC cap. (It might help to have a little valve near the cap to open and close the flow.) Fill the bottle with about a quart of brake fluid and make sure the hose end is submerged
∙Get a mason jar/peanut butter jar and mount two hose barbs on the lid, making them vacuum tight
∙Run a tube from a bleeder to one of the hose barbs on the lid, putting in an elevated loop so that bubbles in the fluid would be visible
∙Run a vacuum line from the engine (such as the windshield washer) to the other lid barb and start the engine
∙Open the bleeder and use engine vacuum to suck the fluid through the lines from the external reservoir and out through the bleeder and into the jar
∙When no bubbles are seen in the loop, close off the bleeder, shut down the engine, move the set-up to the next wheel and repeat until all 4 wheels are bled.
∙Shut off the valve at the master cylinder and remove the external reservoir. Install the road-worthy MC cap.

Would it work? Think it would be worth pursuing? It should only be about 10 - 15 psi pulling the fluid, so it shouldn't damage cylinder components.

Bill

Joined: Feb 2006
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I think you need to find something more constructive to do with your time! grin

It seems like quite a bit of work. My preference is for the speed bleeders, just for the ease of use and the relativly cheap cost.

Jeff


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton
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I already have speed bleeders! But it doesn't address the dance of moving between the cab and the wheels or having to refill the master cylinder. I'm looking at a master cylinder rebuild job coming up, along with the necessary full system fluid flush, not just a typical bleeding, and want to be certain I've got all air out of the system.

Since no one posted a "you idiot, you forgot to..." response, I'm guessing there isn't a technical reason why it won't work.

Being an engineer isn't an occupation, it is a lifestyle. wink

Bill

Joined: Sep 2006
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Just be careful how much vacuum you apply.A needle valve would help control this. Too much vacuum and you can actually cause bubbles in the system. I'm basing this on a similar set up we used in a chem lab at work.


Drew
Joined: Feb 2000
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'Bolter
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I have run in to the bleeder valve threads letting air by, so I just kept bleeding not knowing the system was clean long before I quit! Next time I have to do it, I am going to weld two fittings in a spare MC lid for some hose to hook to. Then do the same in a 1 or 2 quart can. I plan to mount the can or hang it as high as I can in the garage so it has a lot of gravity pulling on it. I can then just open the bleeders one at a time and let gravity do it thing. Joe

Joined: May 2001
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Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
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A Mity-vac is about $35. How much do you figure your time is worth and how many hours do you think you'll put into building the homemade set-up?


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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I'm hoping I can drag it out to at least 40 hours, maybe 60 so that I can pull OT at 1.5X. The set-up, after gold plating followed by powder coating, should be in the ~$2500 range if I do it right, especially if I can find an NOS MC cap to butcher up.

'Nuff said, points taken: just because it CAN be done doesn't mean it should.

Incidentally, Wyle E. Coyote is a hero of mine.

Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 239
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I agree with JoeH. Gravity bleeding works just fine, just as long as you raise the fluid above the highest exit point, being the purpose of using a raised bottle.

I rebuilt the m/c on my 57 I had a few years ago and pumped and pumped and pumped it....never did get it reasonably well bled. I went in for the night, checked it the next day and it was fine, the air bubbles had worked their way to the m/c, being the highest point. I topped it off and had no further problems.

Devin


If you can't hose it out it ain't a truck

55 3100
63 Corvair Monza
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