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| | | Forums66 Topics128,050 Posts1,055,757 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 | I'm cleaning up a 1957 gm stock v8 4 barrel intake manifold.The underside of the intake has a metal baffle that i removed.The baffle was held in place by four little push pins.When i reattach the baffle onto the intake,how should i do it ? Reuse the push pins,or use some small metal screws ?I'm afraid the push pins may not hold.
What is the purpose of the metal baffle plate ? Does it keep oil from splashing all over ? 1951 3100 Chevrolet1951 Chevrolet Suburban CarryallImage"A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams." "Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything" "If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 461 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 461 | I think the baffle is a shield to keep oil from splashing onto the under-side of the manifold. The V-8 intake manifolds have carburetor heat passages in them. Oil splashing around there would soon form a heavy layer of carbon. I think the push-pins are actually rivets. I don't see why self-tapping screws with thread locker wouldn't be satisfactory to hold the shield in place. If the rivets are in pretty good shape, you could probably flatten the shank a little, then drive them back in. But, I don't know how durable that method would be.
Harvester | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | You will usually find a lot of crud bilt up under there. I always put same plugs back in. Anything that would hold will be fine. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 | The baffle did have about 1/16" to 1/8" of crud or carbon.I have it in my blasting cabinet,and it is looking really nice.I will check the plugs or rivets for tightness and decide.I'm not going to use the manifold,just getting it ready for the next guy that needs one.
Thanks,Tim 1951 3100 Chevrolet1951 Chevrolet Suburban CarryallImage"A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams." "Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything" "If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 84 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 84 | I think it's best to use some 1/4-20 screws. This is about the same size as the old rivets. Just drill and tap the holes. Clean it up and use blue loctite on them so they don't back out. That would be bad Gary
GS
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | Use some phillips panhead screws. Check the heads for clearance by setting it on top of a longblock. I have had to grind a head because of how close they are to the gasket surface. | | |
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