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#381651 02/29/2008 3:07 PM
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Ok i did the search here and on the web. No help.
In links you will find
Chiri Enterprise
They have: WHAT A JOB Industrial And WHAT A LINER
Anyone used either product?
I would like to know more about the products and company before i order.
I was looking at Durabak till i found this link.

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I am not sure what brand my freind at work used ..he did mention it wasnt cheap ..but who knows what that means ..Bran new Truck he prepped the bed as per the instructions ...it all started comin off after 1 winter .
My mom had her new GMC done in Rhino lining 5 yrs ago ...still standing tall an lookin good .


1952 Chevy Shortbed

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If It Aint Broke Fix It Till It Is!
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So this site has links to vendors it knows nothing about?
Thats good to know.
See i learned somthing anyway.

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Originally Posted by underdog
So this site has links to vendors it knows nothing about?
Thats good to know.
See i learned somthing anyway.
I find myself scratching my head and wondering what this post was all about :hammering:


~Jim
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It is about a person lost in a sea of pick me products.
Looking for one that actually performs as advertised.
Usually i can find additional information about a product and some times actual user feedback, which helps me spend my money wisely.
This product shows up just about nowhere else on the worldwide web.

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I'm with you in wanting to know if my bux are going to be spent on something that will do what I ask of it. Too much money still ain't enough, and without a doubt, something I'll never have to worry about.


dj durant

1964 Chevrolet C-10 Pickup Truck
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Tramp #381982 03/01/2008 7:54 AM
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underdog,
I am sorry the LACK of information in my post offended you , I should have waited to post after I had contacted my Bud .
here is a LINK to the product he used & was NOT impressed with.

www.herculiner.com

Again sorry !
Tim


1952 Chevy Shortbed

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Thanks SW Radial. your post did not bother me.
I have read alot of disapointment with herculiner;
mostly the texture of the finished product.

Also the duplicolor gets a very poor performance review.
but is supposed to be pretty.

Someone somwhere mentioned two part roll on liner; I looked that up also and hit another load of pick me's, most of these http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.yahoo.net/bedlinerkits1.html are aimed at the do it yourself sprayer crowd.

Looks like i will place my order with Durabak and see what happens. They get pretty good reviews.

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Great! I just bought 2 gal. of Herculiner for the underneath of my cab from NAPA. What is the complaint on this stuff? If it has anything to do with color, look, it won't matter under there. However if the problem is durability I may return it.


~Jim
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http://4wheeldrive.about.com/od/bedliners/a/HerculinerDIY_3.htm
Most complain about:
>fading so get the UV protectant.
>It is so rough it will cause physical harm if you have to work around it.
>It is so rough that cleaning it is a major pain with a very stiff brush.
>From another review: 3) spend mad time on prep work... it really pays off. On my rig, I prepped the *&^% out of the whole interior and just did a quicky on the tailgate. Well... the tailgate is peeling in a few spots while the rest is holding up like a champ. good solid prep really doesnt take THAT much longer and it will make the herc look better and last a lot longer.
>

underdog #382195 03/01/2008 11:34 PM
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underdog
How did you prep yours? Mine is primed and ready for paint.


~Jim
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I are still pondering the problem.
Found this stuff though http://www.dominionsureseal.com/productsdetails.asp?id=305&catid=35
My monies are very dear to me.
So i am trying to get it right the first time.

underdog #382206 03/02/2008 12:20 AM
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I have a couple of weeks before I will need to get it done. I'll check myself and post here what I have found.


~Jim
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I got this response on another forum when asking about Herculiner.

"I used it on a customers 48 truck; on the running boards, front bumper splash
pan, removable floor panels, etc. We used it because his metal was sooo pitted.
It covered all the pits (was blasted & primed first, maybe even painted them
with topcoat too, I forget).

We did the parts off the truck with the special roller they give you. After the
2nd coat dried a few days, I went to put the parts on. Some of the bolt holes
in the parts were slightly covered by the coating. I used a new sharp jack
knife to try to pry & chip the excess away, thinking it would peel it farther
that what I wanted. Wow, that is some tough stuff! I had to carve those holes
out.

I've read on forums that it will get slightly grey looking if exposed to
sunlight for 2 years.

The stuff has rubber chips in it. When it dries, these feel sharp as you run
your hand over it. That's my only concern."


~Jim
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Another response on Herculiner:
"We used it for the entire interior of a Jeep. Durable and troublefree."


~Jim
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It's kinda funny for me to see this post today as yesterday my project was bedlinering a pickup bed and new headacherack! I have done this before with a variety of products. When I worked in a body shop we used a spray-on product called "GatorLiner" or something close to that (no... no affiliation). On personal I have used DupliColor and now PlastiKote. I have seen some Herculiner and the finished product looks much like the DupliColor and PlastiKote! The little rubber chips and all! Yes the rubber chips dry to sharp edges, but it looks good as long as you get it even and is fairly durable as long as your surface is prepped properly. I get the abrasion pads (3M paint and rust stripper) for the drill. you do not need to remove all the paint, just make sure that there is no Gloss left! If you are looking for a "smoothish" finish, go spray-on. if you are looking for maximum grip and durability at low cost, roll-on. It all depends on what your final goal is. and yes, the more you put into surface prep the better your final product will be!
Oh, Almost forgot costs...
DupliColor: Apx $50/kit (gallon) avail at parts stores and sometimes WalMart
PlastiKote: Apx $50/kit (gallon) avail at WalMart and some parts store
Herculiner: Apx $90/Kit (1/2 gallon) avail at parts stores
GatorLiner (if memory serves properly) apx $40/qt spray on only avail by order only (multiple colors avail)
I have heard great things about RhinoLiner, but have no experience with it/info on it.
Hope that this helps you out!

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Additional reading material http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/bedliner-55293.html
Post 11 starts getting interesting.
Well i finally broke out my wallet :blat:
Orderd: Dominion Sure Seal Gator Guard II and an adhesion promoter.
Guess we need to get our cameras working pix and post up with our results when we get the job done smile

Last edited by underdog; 03/02/2008 8:32 PM.
underdog #382549 03/02/2008 10:34 PM
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pix Gottcha pix


~Jim
underdog #382554 03/02/2008 10:53 PM
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Very good info underdog..
Obniously the "Professional" bedliners are better than the DIY kits, and I don't think anyone here is gonna argue that. I have done a few of the Pro jobs (used to work in a Paint & Body shop..) but I think the discussion here is mainly the DIY kits as we all are do it yourselfers and frugal (ok... call me cheap...)
Just an FYI... This last job that I did (Yesterday) I bought two kits as I had an 8' bed AND a full rail with top basket headache rack to do. I was working on both at the same time (having a 16yr old kid around help out at times like these) and did the entire bed (1st coat) and a good portion of the headache rack before I opened the second kit! I now have a little over half a gallon left and am going to do fender guards and then recoat the bed again with the rest. It is not the 1/4 in thick pro job that I have on my flatbed, but still very hard and durable. (and the "pro" job that came on my FB is coming loose in places...)
I will take pictures when the project is done (the weather is trying to turn south today so I will most likely be finishing the project w/o the 16 yr young assistance...

As for the rattle can spray liner... It has its uses... Mainly fenders and such. It gets expensive fast at $8/can! I have used it successfully in many applications. and tend to keep a can on hand for certain projects as well as touch up in the hard to reach areas after a roll/brush on job (inside stake pockets, under bed rail...) I find the rattle cans work very well for floorboards as well as they do not have the grit! again, thickness is key, and keeping a rattle job smooth while moving slow enough to let it bubble up thick, is difficult at best!
The paint/rust strip pads work great for getting a rough solid adhesion surface on already painted surfaces. If you are working with bare metal, the 36grit sand paper, then prime, then scuff imo, works best. The primary reason for the primer is rust prevention, and guaranteed adhesion.
Best of luck, I will get pics up soon.
Laterz,
Gator
>|--|~

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Update...
after curing for a day or so... the "Sharp" rubber edges (I know that that sounds like a contradiction, but..) are not so much of a problem anymore... as the bedliner cures it gets "rubbery" ( I know... imagine that!) The finish is really nice. I am going to re-coat (additional coatings) the bed when weather permits. The "solvent based" OTC bedliners don't have a "re-coat window" to speak of... since they are solvent based when you go to recoat, the new coat will "melt" into the old coat to adhere perfectly to the already adhered coat! makes later touch-ups really easy!
Will get pictures up sooner or later..
~Gator

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I finally got the bedliner finished and the headache rack installed and possibly more importantly for the purposes of this site (all of you) I have pictures posted!!!
http://www.gatorlightning.com/Default.aspx?tabid=480&path=Bed%20Liner
Laterz,
Gator
>|--|~

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That looks really good.
Which product did you use?
You rolled it on?
What did you do for prep?
Are you satisfied with the results?

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Gator:
Looks good. I recognize the dog but whose the knucklehead standing on the cab? grin
What tools did you use to apply it?


~Jim
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The product was Plasti-Kote. About $50/kit at Wallyworld. Same as DupliColor which I have used in the past and also the same (but half the price) as Herculiner which I have also used in the past.

It is a roll/brush on kit and can be applied in layers even after the previous layer is fully cured. Being "Solvent Based" when you apply an additional coat it basically 'melts' into the previous coat.

For Prep I used a 3M 'Paint and Rust Stripper' (see pic of drill). I was not concerned in removing all the paint, just getting rid of the gloss coat and scuffing up the base coat, however these products will adhere to bare metal.
The headache rack we primed prior to coating.

The dog is 'Lacy' the Blue Lacy. (State dog of Texas!)
The 'knuckelhead' would be me! Oddly enough, I do trust my buddy's welds even though a few things that I have had him weld for me in the past have failed...

And, yes, we both are very satisfied with the results of both the headache rack and the bedliner (although we do have plans of second coating the bed... thicker is definitely better in this instance.)

Laterz,
Gator
>|--|~

P.S. I know that it isn't a 'Bolt'; but it is still a Chevy!

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Very nice, Gator
Cleon


Life is like a roll of toilet paper, the nearer the end the faster it goes.




1949 Chevy 6400
1931 Chevy Firetruck




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