The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Labor Day

Labor Day

Putting down your wrenches or time for
MORE wrenching?

Wrenching this Labor Day
Plenty of places to share.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (1955 1 Series, Otto Skorzeny, baldeagle, Lightholder's Dad), 54 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,006
Posts1,055,267
Members48,418
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#366256 01/27/2008 12:47 AM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 91
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
1 Offline
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 91
It looks like I am going to attempt to do the prep work on my 51 ,3100 5 window. I have never done any of this before so please explain it like you are telling a grade schooler. The truck is completely apart down to the frame. The frame is painted with Zero Rust, so thats done,thank God! Now, I would like to start with one fender at a time sanding, priming then assemble the truck and have a pro paint it is funds permit. Here comes the questions;
1. Use a da or orbital sander. I have a fairly large air compressor
2. Sand everything down to bare metal, inside and out?
3. After I have a part or part of a oart finished, can i spray it with a rattle can of primer , maybe a enamel primer, or Rustoleumor Zero rust,or what
4What grit sandpaper to start out with?
I know there are alot of questions here but are alot more to come after these are resolved. Thanks

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
1951 Elmer,

My wife tells me I act like a grade schooler so I'll give you my two cents.

A pro painter might be very nervous about painting a rig he didn't have a hand in preparing. If the foundation is 'iffy', the expensive paint job will go sour in a very short time...and the owner, you, will be disappointed.

This is how I would do it. If the existing paint is VERY firmly attached, with no rust under it, it only needs to be sanded and primed. A DA with progressive grits can do this.

It isn't 100% necessary to remove all the paint and get to clean metal. No rattle cans or hardware store primers allowed! All old intact paint, bare metal and any bondo must be covered with a two part (2K) primer. This is a catalyzed primer that will fill and seal the old surface from the new paint that is to be applied.

Only automotive paints and thinners will work well. Nothing from ACE hardware will be compatible with anything a automotive painter would spray on.

If you have a real automotive paint store nearby, it would be a great idea to go have a chat with them. They will give you a idea of costs.

If you get sticker shock from this, there are alternate ways to approach the paint question that MIGHT involve ACE hardware. smile

Stuart

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
You'll also want some paint between the two parts being attached before assembly. Get the parts "edged" before bolting it back together,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 131
S
Certified Bolt Nut
Certified Bolt Nut
S Offline
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 131
Hey Elmer, I'm in the same position as you with my truck. What I have decided to do is all the disassembly I can, then do all the "clean up" myself. This includes sanding, major and minor dent removal and filler. I talked to my paint guy and said that it would be easier on him, and cheaper on me if I brought him the parts taken apart, as clean as I could get them, and about as ready for primer as I could. This way he controls all aspects of the prep/paint work. I will receive the parts fully painted and ready for reassembly. This ensures I save as much money as possible on the labor that I can do without sacrificing a quality paint job. I know its tempting to use rattle can primer, but in the long I've found out it’s a waste of time any money. Most quality paint guys won't paint over it, so they are going to remove it anyways. That is what I've learned so far...others might ring in with other thoughts.

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,703
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,703
Elmer ,
I was unlucky enough to find my Truck came ot me with a skim coat to a lot of 25 yr old Bondo pretty much over every body part ,I opted for $$ sake ...since it would kill my budget to let the Body man strip the sheetmetal ...I went to my local Monument place ...yes the TOMBSTONE people , they were expierinced and happy to sand blast all my sheetmetal for a more than reasonaable price .
Just an option to look into , I have found most monument places do all kinds of sandblasting and if they have been around a while they have done Auto sheet metal


1952 Chevy Shortbed

Photos in Photobucket

If It Aint Broke Fix It Till It Is!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 91
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
1 Offline
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 91
After I sand all the parts down as far as I think they should go, before they go to the paint guy, is there anything I can put on them to prevent rust from forming again? Thanks

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,644
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,644
Originally Posted by 1951 Elmer
After I sand all the parts down as far as I think they should go, before they go to the paint guy, is there anything I can put on them to prevent rust from forming again? Thanks

Good question. If we're constantly told not to use any rattle can primer, what can you use to keep exposed steel that will receive finish paint from rusting?

I can't see what harm would come from a coat of rattle can self etching primer. I haven't gotten to my body panels and fenders yet, but the smaller parts I've done so far have all been treated with DupliColor self-etching primer before primer and paint and I'm very high on this product. It goes on thin and very smooth and seems to make good sense for those with no access to a paint booth.


Woody
Your Brother in Bolthood

My 1951 half-ton 'Ol Red

Save the VINTAGE DOOR ART! Please contribute photos.
Door Art Collection
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 141
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 141
"I'm very high on this product."

LMAO.....
I seem to remember reading a thread where MARTINSR talked about using etching primer under primer as a good way to go.....
I have been using SEM self etching primer

best
brian

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 95
U
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
U Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 95
Find your painter first.
Go over with them what each of your parts will be and what products will be used.
Alot of paints these days are really systems. From metal prep to clear coat, the products work together.

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,644
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,644
Originally Posted by briang
"I'm very high on this product." LMAO.....

Uhhhh yea... that didn't come out quite the way I intended grin


Woody
Your Brother in Bolthood

My 1951 half-ton 'Ol Red

Save the VINTAGE DOOR ART! Please contribute photos.
Door Art Collection
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 91
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
1 Offline
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 91
Thanks; I like the idea of using a self etching primer. Also, would a DA sander work ok for prep? I hope so as it could be used for woodworking projects.

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,644
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,644
Anything that will get you down to bare metal will work, but some work faster than others. It's up to you and how much time and effort you're willing to spend as opposed to how much money you want to spend on tools.


Woody
Your Brother in Bolthood

My 1951 half-ton 'Ol Red

Save the VINTAGE DOOR ART! Please contribute photos.
Door Art Collection
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,031
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,031
stu's correct

i talked to my painter first
media blasted the truck and they primered it... which the painter agrees and knows what primer those guys use. compatibility IS key here.
it was painted after the body work was completed over the primer.
while the cab, fenders, hood, bed and all the other small stuff were @ the blaster, I did the frame in POR 15 by hand brush and finished the brake job. Ready for the sheet metal to go back on.

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=Scan11_0011.jpg

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=579990-R1-030-13A.jpg

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=DSC00494_0006.jpg

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=587685-R1-046-21A.jpg

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=005_5.jpg



Last edited by carolines truck; 01/31/2008 6:50 AM.

Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE

Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0