Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 91 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 91 | It looks like I am going to attempt to do the prep work on my 51 ,3100 5 window. I have never done any of this before so please explain it like you are telling a grade schooler. The truck is completely apart down to the frame. The frame is painted with Zero Rust, so thats done,thank God! Now, I would like to start with one fender at a time sanding, priming then assemble the truck and have a pro paint it is funds permit. Here comes the questions; 1. Use a da or orbital sander. I have a fairly large air compressor 2. Sand everything down to bare metal, inside and out? 3. After I have a part or part of a oart finished, can i spray it with a rattle can of primer , maybe a enamel primer, or Rustoleumor Zero rust,or what 4What grit sandpaper to start out with? I know there are alot of questions here but are alot more to come after these are resolved. Thanks | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | 1951 Elmer, My wife tells me I act like a grade schooler so I'll give you my two cents. A pro painter might be very nervous about painting a rig he didn't have a hand in preparing. If the foundation is 'iffy', the expensive paint job will go sour in a very short time...and the owner, you, will be disappointed. This is how I would do it. If the existing paint is VERY firmly attached, with no rust under it, it only needs to be sanded and primed. A DA with progressive grits can do this. It isn't 100% necessary to remove all the paint and get to clean metal. No rattle cans or hardware store primers allowed! All old intact paint, bare metal and any bondo must be covered with a two part (2K) primer. This is a catalyzed primer that will fill and seal the old surface from the new paint that is to be applied. Only automotive paints and thinners will work well. Nothing from ACE hardware will be compatible with anything a automotive painter would spray on. If you have a real automotive paint store nearby, it would be a great idea to go have a chat with them. They will give you a idea of costs. If you get sticker shock from this, there are alternate ways to approach the paint question that MIGHT involve ACE hardware.  Stuart | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | You'll also want some paint between the two parts being attached before assembly. Get the parts "edged" before bolting it back together, Scott | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 131 Certified Bolt Nut | | Certified Bolt Nut Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 131 | Hey Elmer, I'm in the same position as you with my truck. What I have decided to do is all the disassembly I can, then do all the "clean up" myself. This includes sanding, major and minor dent removal and filler. I talked to my paint guy and said that it would be easier on him, and cheaper on me if I brought him the parts taken apart, as clean as I could get them, and about as ready for primer as I could. This way he controls all aspects of the prep/paint work. I will receive the parts fully painted and ready for reassembly. This ensures I save as much money as possible on the labor that I can do without sacrificing a quality paint job. I know its tempting to use rattle can primer, but in the long I've found out it’s a waste of time any money. Most quality paint guys won't paint over it, so they are going to remove it anyways. That is what I've learned so far...others might ring in with other thoughts. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 | Elmer , I was unlucky enough to find my Truck came ot me with a skim coat to a lot of 25 yr old Bondo pretty much over every body part ,I opted for $$ sake ...since it would kill my budget to let the Body man strip the sheetmetal ...I went to my local Monument place ...yes the TOMBSTONE people , they were expierinced and happy to sand blast all my sheetmetal for a more than reasonaable price . Just an option to look into , I have found most monument places do all kinds of sandblasting and if they have been around a while they have done Auto sheet metal | | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 91 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 91 | After I sand all the parts down as far as I think they should go, before they go to the paint guy, is there anything I can put on them to prevent rust from forming again? Thanks | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | After I sand all the parts down as far as I think they should go, before they go to the paint guy, is there anything I can put on them to prevent rust from forming again? Thanks Good question. If we're constantly told not to use any rattle can primer, what can you use to keep exposed steel that will receive finish paint from rusting? I can't see what harm would come from a coat of rattle can self etching primer. I haven't gotten to my body panels and fenders yet, but the smaller parts I've done so far have all been treated with DupliColor self-etching primer before primer and paint and I'm very high on this product. It goes on thin and very smooth and seems to make good sense for those with no access to a paint booth. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | "I'm very high on this product."
LMAO..... I seem to remember reading a thread where MARTINSR talked about using etching primer under primer as a good way to go..... I have been using SEM self etching primer
best brian | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 95 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2007 Posts: 95 | Find your painter first. Go over with them what each of your parts will be and what products will be used. Alot of paints these days are really systems. From metal prep to clear coat, the products work together. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | "I'm very high on this product." LMAO..... Uhhhh yea... that didn't come out quite the way I intended  | | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 91 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 91 | Thanks; I like the idea of using a self etching primer. Also, would a DA sander work ok for prep? I hope so as it could be used for woodworking projects. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Anything that will get you down to bare metal will work, but some work faster than others. It's up to you and how much time and effort you're willing to spend as opposed to how much money you want to spend on tools. | | |
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