The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 Rebuild...things to consider?

Hello,

I've decided to pull my motor and have it rebuilt. I'm going to put Langdon's HEI with dual C/W's and Fenton exhaust. What should I consider upgrading during the process? Pistons, valve seats and guides etc...... What questions should I ask of the machine shop? What cam and grind, should I use to take advantage of the added CFM's? I have read a 261 cam is a good replacement. I just want a nice running and sounding 235 for cruising, no racing, just cruising. I know many of you think I should replace with another engine but I'm set on this 235 it's the original motor. Stovebolt's RULE!!!

The 261 cam is a good choice but so are some custom grinds. I like my 3/4 race from Patrick. I'd do the 375 CFM Holley if doing it over however. The twins have a greater "wow" factor but harder to tune and forget those electric chokes. I'd mill the head .040/.060 and replace the seats. As for the pistons, guides, etc it will depend on what you find inside. These are expensive engine to rebuild so why replace or upgrade what doesn't need it?

Good luck.

The main consideration of your rebuild should be the expertise, quality and reputation of your engine re-builder. If he's good, he will steer you to the appropriate mods in the internals...the fuel delivery system your thinking about has been done many times and there is a lot of knowledge on this site about the pros & cons of that set-up.

i had a 235 once with 1 carb but someone had put a racing cam in it it ran smooth with a ton of power when you steped on it but the idle was lopey like the choke was on a little i wanted to put a stock one back in but the balancer would not come off it did give it more snap but with a truck 4 speed you realy couldnt use it mayby with an automatic it would work better or higher gears

Just a couple suggestions......based on my own recent rebuild of a 1960 235 in a 54 pickup. I used the 261 grind cam with dual C/W's and Fentons and am very pleased with the results. I planned the engine and drivetrain gearing for cruising at 2000 rpms at 70 mph (.72 T5 w/3.42 R&P).

Several things you might want to consider are a full dynamic balance of the rotating assembly (pricey, but worth every penny), having the block drilled for a full-flow filtering, the lower 2 bolts of the timing cover modified so you don't have to drop the pan to access the timing gears, and drilling the crank for a small block bolt so you can draw your H/B on easily and secure it. The modifications to the block set me back $60.00. The cost for a rotational balance can vary but I paid $250. which included a good set of rods to replace my mismatched set. I disagree with those who say a 6 cylinder doesn't warrant balancing.

This setup in a 235 is not going to turn your engine into a street racer but you will have one that is smooth through the power band, makes better oil pressure at both speed and idle, is responsive without hesitation, starts instantly and idles perfectly. In 3500 miles since my rebuild I haven't had a hiccup out of the engine and although much of my driving is at 70 mph+ I'm still averaging 18 mpg on 87 octane gas.

Of course, the call is yours....I'm just offering up some options that have worked for me.

Dave