The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Wheel Cylinders

I am replacing the front cylinders and the lines have been on there forever. Any suggestions on getting the lines off, as they are stuck and won't turn. What is the best product that will loosen the threads.

first off don't use an open-end wrench or you are sure to round the heads off. I have a set of "line wrenches" that I use. They are open just enough to slip over the line but act as a
boxed-end wrench when you try to loosen something and won't round the heads off..unless very very tight.

I would spray some "kroil" or PB Blaster on them and then let them set overnight. Then spray some more on it and afer about 5 minutes put the line wrench on it. First try to TIGHTEN it just a bit and then loosen it.
If this don't work then get out the vice grips and get mean with it!!!

Blaster is going to have to be the way. I tried to loosen the first time and rounded the surface so after the soaking I will try again and then Vise grips as a last resort. Thanks

Here's the best way I've found and it works like a charm.

Use a brake line wrench like the guys described above - or better yet just cut the brake line or hose and replace it so you can put a box end wrench on the fitting.

Here's the important part: Don't try to slowly turn it out. Once you have the wrench engaged well on the fitting, give it a sharp pull - sometimes I even hit the wrench with a rubber mallet. It's important that it be a really sharp hit, not a slow turn-out. When you do it slowly it's probably going to round off the fitting. It works really, really well and you're a lot less likely to round it off.

If the lines are that cruddy, replace them. That's the most important system on the vehicle,
Scott

yes, I am with Scott, replace the lines. Chances are that when you do get the nut to turn, the tubing will turn as well. When this happens you have to replace the line. I also use a 6 point tubing wrench designed for that purpose with the cut to slip the tubing through as described above. I never use a regular open end.I've always replace lines in stainless. The new owners never have the problem again...lucky them.

flyn55,
Don't know how much experience you have so excuss me including some basic stuff here.

Never replace a line with copper... Always use a double flare. New lines can be purchased with double flares and fittings installed in random lengths at an auto parts stores. Simply measure the line an go to select the correct length. They are relatively cheap and excellent insurance.

Dave

Talking about this topic always reminds me of the huge value of using good hand tools. Any professional quality wrenches make a world of difference when working with pesky fasteners/fittings.

I couldn't believe how much better a Snap-on flank drive wrench worked on brake lines than my Craftsman. It bites on the center of the hex and not on the corners. I was able to turn out the fitting that I had rounded off with my other wrench.

They're expensive though. My brother worked as a Snap-on dealer for years and even getting them at cost seemed too pricey for me most of the time.

flyn55:

I just replaced the brake lines on my '56. It is a must do---go stainless. I made the rookie mistake of rounding off the head. It wan't a big deal because I knew that I was replacing the lines, hoses, etc. So I just cut the line close to the fitting and then pulled the hose out (which was already disconnected from the back of the wheel cylinder) from the wheel side.

If you are going to replace lines and all, I wouldn't even mess with it. Just cut the line and go.

That happened to me once on an old Plymouth. Like an idiot I didn't replace the lines, and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get all the air out of them when I tried to bleed them.

D-OH!

The first time I experienced this was on my 81 CJ-5 Jeep (didn't even know they made line wrenches) and I had to replace all the hard lines...fast fwd 10 years and I got smarter...bought some line wrenches...the only way to go. They don't always work, but they keep you out of trouble most of the time.

Thankks for all the help. I decided to remove the Cylinder from the backing plate and the remove the cylinder from the front. I then removed the line from the cylinder and plugged the line so that i didn't lose any of the brake fluid. I then filled the new cylinder with brake fluid till it was full and re-attached the line to the cylinder. I had to bleed enough of the fluid to allow the cylinder to be placed back on the backing plate. I then bled more brake fluid to get the shoes back in place. I then checked and found that I didn't have any air in the lines.
More than one way to skin a cat.

Nice going FLYN55...SO WHERE ARE THOSE PIX?

Dave

Thanks Dave I will try to get some photos soon, I work with a news photographer and will get him to take some and then send them.

Paul