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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 10 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 10 | I am getting ready to buy a 1963 Chevy C-60 dump truck. The brake pedal has to be pumped 3-4 times to get pressure. This will stop the truck but as soon as I let off the pedal I have to pump them again.
Does anyone know what the problem is? I have a couple of theories but no experience with this truck yet.
Thanks, Crimsonlake | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 292 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2007 Posts: 292 | Bleed the air out man. . .bleed them and top it off or they are way out of adjustment. . .
Mikey D
1962 GMC K3000, GMC-379 V6.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 462 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 462 | most common problem air in the system flush entire system with new fluid as this will get rid of air | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 14 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 14 | I agree, probably air in the system. Brake systems seem to be one of the most neglected systems.
The best thing to do when you get an old car or truck is to flush the system. Like said before it removes the air and it also gets rid of rust and contaminates in the system.
Danny-Southeast Missouri | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 10 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 10 | Thanks for the replies. There is a booster under the driver side running board. Does that need bled somehow? If so, what is the best method? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 | Is the booster part of the master cyl, or a seperate unit all together?
If seperate and IF the booster is functional (best way to check is to pump up the brakes as you sedcribed with the engine off, then start it up, if it's working you should feel the pedal go down a bit more as the booster comes online), there are two bleeders on the top, on at the top if the main assembly, and one at the top of the end cap where the outlet line is.
Bleeding method is from closest to furthest in relation the the master cylender, so start at the top of the booster, then the end of the booster, front wheels, rear wheels. Keep a close eye on the fluid level in the master! I had to go through my system a couple time to get all the air out, but once you have the air out and the brake shoes adjusted properly you should be good to go. 1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber" 2007 Chevy Avalanche 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk, 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things. But thats just MY opinion! :P
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | I would adjust them first. They may not need bleeding.
Last edited by Wrenchbender Ret.; 11/28/2007 12:35 AM.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 10 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 10 | Thanks again. I will try those options. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 75 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 75 | Bleeding method is from closest to furthest in relation the the master cylender, so start at the top of the booster, then the end of the booster, front wheels, rear wheels. Keep a close eye on the fluid level in the master! I had to go through my system a couple time to get all the air out, but once you have the air out and the brake shoes adjusted properly you should be good to go.
Actually Crimson, you should be good to stop! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 195 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 195 | After learning the hard way, my advice would be to adjsut the shoes first then you can tell more about whether there is air in the lines. We ran two gallon of fluid thru our truck before realizing this.
Red meat is not bad for you.........Fuzzy green meat is bad for you!
"What happens in the garage stays in the garage!"
1958 Chevy Spartan 100 firetruck in the Gallery
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | Funny, but I've been taught to always bleed air from the rear wheels forward not vice versa as is indicated by Freq 2002. I guess one of us is right. That is how I've always done it and never had a single problem. It is because the fluid would displace the air and it (air)would seek the weakest, or furthest and highest level. Makes sense to me. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 364 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 364 | Bleeding method is from closest to furthest in relation the the master cylender, I believe you are mistaken. If you do this, you'll just push the air from the rear right back to the front. Bleed brakes from furthest to closest in relation to master cylinder or you'll just chase your tail all day long.
Keith If it were easy they'd have grade schoolers doing it! | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Bleeding method is from closest to furthest in relation the the master cylender, I believe you are mistaken. If you do this, you'll just push the air from the rear right back to the front. Bleed brakes from furthest to closest in relation to master cylinder or you'll just chase your tail all day long. Me too. Furthest to closest Grigg | | | | | | ZooKeeper Unregistered | | ZooKeeper Unregistered | | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 | chevy manuel furtherest to closest | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 | Yanno, it doesnt really matter what method is the best one if what you do works for you. I go from what I was taught by professional mechanics, my experiences as a mechanic, and what the book says. And oddly enough, they are all pretty much the same. But again, what works for you, works for you. I have this to present for consideration, taken directly from the GMC 55-59, models 100-500 manual: Page 173 describes the advised method for bleeding the brake system and refers to this bleeding sequence chart, showing what I described, only variation is it tells you to do the left wheels first, then right, and redo the booster, vs. my usual method of front, rears, then repeat whole process. 1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber" 2007 Chevy Avalanche 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk, 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things. But thats just MY opinion! :P
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 75 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 75 | Check the fluid first, Bleed the hydrovac booster & the brakes. Check your fluid after each wheel, start on the right rear than L R -- R F -- L F Also check that there are no leaking lines or wheel cyl's. | | |
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