The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Power door locks, 47-49 original latches

What I'm looking for is anyone who has made the 47-49 original door latches *power*.

I know I can retrofit bearclaw latches and do it easily; I just prefer the hard way. Oh and I guess it's important to know that I only care if they UNLOCK with power; I'm not so lazy that I can't latch the door before getting out!

Advice appreciated.
Jeff

We have converted several Chevy doors over to power latches. On one we completely removed the inside handle and on others we used a heavy solenoid to open the door with a remote. I would stay away from the weak 8 pounder solenoids and go with the big 30+ pounders. On the one with no inside door handle we welded a 4" piece to the latch bar that connects to the rod from the inside handle. The solenoid is located "in" the door with a brace and an aircraft cable goes up to the welded bar. On the one with an inside door handle we tied the cable at a bend on the rod going to the door handle. The cable goes foward the around a pulley (door hardware) from Home Depot, then at about a 45 degree angle down to the solenoid mounted "inside" the door again. It is mounted at the bottom of the door below the door latch. The door is widest at the bottom rear so thats why we choose that location. You will have plan for obstructions, window, window tracks, and so on. I would also plan for relays and the location of the hole you are going to have to drill in the door for power. "Streetworks" has kits for all this so you can get an idea of whats needed. Might as well put power windows in also. "Nu-Relics" has direct replacement power windows kits that bolt right up to the old window mounts. They are good people. Have fun.

Hey Guys, how about a few pics for those of us thinking the same route here.

Scott

LMC offers a kit that i am having installed still don't know how it works. someone else is doing the work this week. will post later. ron

After dorking around with the latches a bit, I am tempted to do something which seems like it could be bad.

One thing I hate about the early door locks is the fact that you can't open your door, then lock it with the interior door handle and close the door. When you do, the safety latch "unlocks" the door.

So here's the temptation: cut the safety catch off of the door lock. If I did that I could "lock" the door using the inside door handle and use a solenoid to just unlock the door (or unlock and open depending on how the stroke is set). And if I was feeling a little more safety conscious, I could install a "suicide door" safety pin for when the truck is on the move.

Comments?

Jeff

Ps. let us all know how the LMC kit works out.

Ron,
Ever get the LMC kit installed? Curious how this turned out.

Powering the latch is a pretty common project. Powering the lock is much more difficult.

Which are you trying to do?

What I want to do is:
1) manually lock the door(s) using the interior door handle and then close the door without the latch deciding the door should really be unlocked.
2) unlock the door(s) using a linear actuator or solenoid.

It shouldn't be that hard, but chevy locks from 47-49 are just-plain-dumb. I *don't* want to have to get out on the passenger's side of the vehicle and lock the door using the exterior door lock.

Jeff

My only driver of the era is a '55 1st with the later '52 and newer push button exterior handles. I don't know how similar the the '47-'49 mechanisms are to that.

On my truck I decided the best answer might be to both lock and unlock the doors using acutators. But I've not done it yet.

I think the difficulty in controlling the locks is why most people change latches and pop the latch instead of control a lock.

I have the power lock and latch mechanisms from a mid-90's Cadillac that I've considered adapting. I don't know that these are the best choice but when I next chase this challenge I plan to figure out if that is an option.

if you have ever had a door on a AD truck fly open the bearclaw upgrade is a good one. after talking to a handfull of guys with the bearclaw latches because their doors had flown open the masses must be on to something.

Have you thought about finding an extra pass. side door mechanism and mounting it on the driver side? I am doing that to my Packard as I hate having only one outside door lock. The divers door also has a remote opening solenoid. I will not install the door lock and opening solenoid until this winter so I can't tell you what modes will be necessary. The plan is to lock the door fron the outside with the key, then be able to open it with the inside door handle or remote. Attached are some early photos of the solenoid mounting.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff110/beltfed_photos/08100001.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff110/beltfed_photos/08100002.jpg

I bought the kit from LMC and after getting it I will not be using it. It is a universal kit and I just don't like how it is built or how it would have to mount in my Task Force doors. I may use then in my S10 instead I don't know yet. I will be getting a modal specific unit for my 56 and that goes for the door locks and power windows. I will say that I have had a good experience with LMC and feel they are great people I am not at all upset with them I just didn't care for their power door lock or window kits.

Thanks Bud... that gives me something to do !!

Just a quick response to a couple of the posts.
1) The bummer about the pushbutton handles and their latches is that they are fairly easy to convert, relative to the dowturn handles. I just *can't* make myself do it. Weird that I should be a stickler for something like that while wanting to convert to power, I know.
2) There is a major difference between the driver and passenger latches. The "lock" is built into the passenger side latch and I think it would take a real live miracle to be able to make that happen on the driver's side. Looked at them both closely and decided no way for my skill level.
3) I took one of my junk latches (it was original but cracked in a number of places) and did what I said I was going to. That is, removed the "safety catch" just by grinding it off. Now the door works the way I want and all I need to do is attach a 30lb solenoid to "unlock" the door.

I'll keep you posted and send some pics when I get it all together.

I had a '49 while living out in OK. My son (5 yr.s old at the time) and I were out for a ride and the passenger door flew open as we rounded a curve with him hanging on to it! Thank God he didn't fall off! I'm seriously thinking about the Bear Claws for this project.