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| | | Forums66 Topics128,122 Posts1,056,332 Members48,439 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 24 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 24 | Hello. I'm really glad I found this forum. I am about to start the restoration of my '66 C10. I want to turn it into a daily driver that can go to the hardware store and cruise around on the weekends. My plan is to not do a frame off restoration, but do as good of a job as I can. This is the first project like this that I have ever done, so I want to make sure that I plan out everything well before I start. So I'd like to share my plan and welcome any feedback or problems that yall might see.
My plan is to disassemble everything down to a rolling chassis and then clean everything really well. I'm not going to blast anything but will instead be using chemical strippers, wire brush wheels, and good old fashioned elbow grease. I'll probably paint the engine compartment with Rustoleum and then send it off to the body shop to get the inside and outside painted. The body is really straight but there are a few spots in the floor pan and doors that are rusted out. Not too bad, just a few spots about the size of a nickel or quarter. I'll let the pros take care of that.
At some point a PO turned this truck into a ghetto hot rod. They replaced the engine and the tranny and hacked a hole in the floor pan to install a god awful looking B & M shifter. The bench seat is also gone and there are some rigged up bucket seats that are ugly as sin. All of that is going to go and I would like to return the interior to as stock as possible. I want to put the shifter back on the column and get a new bench seat. I've seen some people use a new GM seat and it looked really good. Search the boneyards?
I'm going to do the conversion to disc brakes and power steering. New exterior gas tank. All of the suspension will be upgraded. All new brake lines, fuel lines, wiring harness, new radiator, new 350 crate. I like the idea of putting the synthetic deck wood in the bed. I'll probably go with Turqoise for the exterior color. Haven't decided if I'll stick with Fawn for the interior or something different inside.
I'm really excited to get working on this. I gutted a lot of the interior today. The old rotted bed will go tomorrow. When I have time next week, I'm going to rent a hoist and yank the engine.
I was thinking that it would make sense to do the gas tank upgrade and the disc brake upgrade before I sent it off to get the paint and body work done. Does that make sense?
Thanks and sorry for the long post.
Last edited by 66bowtie; 10/31/2007 6:03 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 70 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 70 | Welcome aboard 66bowtie you have come to the right place for help you will find a lot of great guys and gals all with alot of Knowledge and helpful ideas along with a few opinions (i think thats really a good thing)years ago i did just what your doing now on an old 4x4 man i could have use a site like that then ,but then that was really before internet got big.i stripped the frame sealed all the rust i could find and prined and repainted it drove the thing for 6-7 years on and off road after that and it still looked good when i sold it .cool project you got yourself there ...Later Earl | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | Likewise, Welcome to the site! Congrats on your project truck and your intentions to restore it to it's days of glory. With that said, I'd like to admit that I have made a cottage industry out of buying "projects" that were running when the PO bought them....torn down and never completed. Most times, it was because the new owner under-estimated the time, money, equipment and expertise involved in bringing a "project" to fruition. If you're short on any one of these ingredients a complete tear-down might be the first step towards frustration and ultimately, failure.
You didn't mention if the truck was running/rolling. I would highly recommend that you start from the ground up, literally, and evaluate exactly what you've GOT to do to make it a safe "driver" first and then work on the esthetics after you're sure the truck is sound and worth the effort. You mentioned a disc conversion which, in my estimation should be mandatory...but to do the job right you should take a close look at the entire system...lines, hoses and other components and realize that bringing up the entire system is both expensive and time-consuming. If you're equipped to fabricate and run your own lines, plumb in the various valving and bring the system up to 100% it becomes a green light situation. BTW....double the time and dollars you've figured as a cost factor. This process should be repeated with all the systems in the truck; body, brakes, electrical, engine and drivetrain.
I know from personal experience, that it's easy to sink $10K and a thousand hours into a "non-show" project truck. It's better to have a true picture of the time, expense, and to honestly evaluate your degree of expertise, before you start ripping it down. The STOVEBOLT is a great place to get help but ultimately, when it's all said and done, you're going to be the guy that brings it all together. I hope this helps you get started on your project!
Dave | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Wow! Welcome.Sounds like a great project. While we all want to get back on the road quickly, take your time and examine parts carefully. You may find just a good cleaning and painting may be necessary for some of it. The disc brakes are a great idea especially if the engine is strong.Good luck with your project and post pics if you can.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 24 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 24 | Thanks for the honest advice. I'm aware of the magnitude of what I'm undertaking. It's one of the reasons I want to get as much advice up front as I can. I'm also trying to gauge what makes sense for me to do and what makes sense to farm out to pros.
The truck is running right now, but very rough. The engine is losing compression and the brake system is a mess. I looked in the master cylinder, and it is black sludge, not even liquid. It probably needs some suspension work too.
Because so much of the drive train is after-market, I'm not as inclined to work on it and get in good shape. I feel more like just chucking it all and starting over.
The brake system might be something worth turning over to the pros. I actually have a really great break shop near my house. Most of the lines are in bad enough shape that I feel like doing all new. I want this to be a dependable truck that I can drive for years. If I'm going to go to the expense and effort to restore it, I might as well do it right.
I've had different ideas too. I've thought about doing all the prep work myself, stripping everything off and sending it to a shop to get some of the major stuff done. They would do the paint and body work, drop in the new motor and tranny, plumb the new brake and fuel lines, etc.
Then I could bring it home and finish it out. Run the wiring harness, bed, interior, trim, engine accessories, stereo, etc.
I'm fully prepared to put about 10k into this truck, but I'd like it to be done in about 6-9 months. If I did most of it myself, I'm sure it would take more like a year or two. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 24 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 24 | Oh and I forgot to respond to questions about time and expertise.
I have time. I'm lucky to only have to work about 25-30 hours and week. I have less expertise. I've only done basic auto repair in the past, nothing like this. But I bought this truck specifically as a challenge to myself, so that I could learn more. I'm so interested in learning more that in my spare time I've signed up for classes at my local community college and will become an ASE certified mechanic. I have no desire to work as a mechanic. It's just for my own pleasure.
For me, I view this truck as a classroom. I want to learn as much as I can, but I also don't want to overwhelm myself, get frustrated, and abandon it. So that's why I've got to strike the right balance of what to do myself and what to give over to the pros.
Thanks for all of your good advice.
Last edited by 66bowtie; 10/31/2007 3:52 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | "I'm so interested in learning more that in my spare time I've signed up for classes at my local community college and will become an ASE certified mechanic."
That's a smart idea and a great way to start your project.
Last edited by DrewP; 10/31/2007 4:20 PM.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | Just make it a bunch of smaller projects. Don't rip it all apart. Take small bites like the brakes. Then the gas tank, Then the engine compartment, then the suspension, etc. etc.
The more you rip it apart, the more confusing it can get. Parts get lost or misplaced easier, interest is lost. You might want to keep it in driving condition for the most part so you can use it and upgrade as time allows. There are a lot of lost projects out there that end up for sale or just end up sitting forever because too much was bitten off, or interest was lost, or lack of money to finish. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 24 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 24 | Those are good points and something I will seriously consider.
I guess my reason for wanting to strip everything down in the beginning was so that I could really get everything clean. Scrub the engine compartment and the undercarriage. Get all of that rotten junk out of there and start over. Does that make sense?
Also, although it runs, I wouldn't consider it drivable right now. The only time I drive it is to move it around my own property. It would be unsafe to myself and others to get on the street with it. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 289 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 289 | I agree with Builder and have had success doing a bunch of smaller projects. No matter which you decide here are some suggestions. Bag & tag everything. Get some sandwhich bags and permanent markers for nuts & bolts. Tag things that can't be bagged. Keep everything so it can be compared to the replacment part. Get a Shop manual and Factory assembly manual, decent used ones can be found on E-bay. Get a digital camera and take lots of pictures before taking something apart.
I have cleaned my axles, brakes and engine compartment without taking the truck apart. No use taking it all part until you find a body shop, in fact if you don't have a trailer, it might be easier to get it driveable and take it around. 6-9 months sounds pretty optimistic unless you are willing to throw lots of $$$$ or have a 3 on tree already & shop selected. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 190 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 190 | Welcome + good luck with your truck. I would add - try not to get all worked up about dead lines, it almost always takes longer than you think. Just be happy if you make progress and just keep at it. Another thing its been my experience, most shops that do this kind of work cant do anything in 2 months, they might tell you 2 months, but thats just to get the job. It can be much longer! I would look around and make sure you like the looks of the places you pick. Dont let the time it takes get to you, just keep the big picture in mind and keep at it. I have had to do that many times :-) again good luck - keep it fun. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 24 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 24 | I think I'll try to keep it running for a little while before I send it off to the body shop. It's good advice and I should listen to it.
So today I changed the oil, air filter, fuel filter, charged up the battery, and added some brake fluid (who knows if that will actually help since the brakes are in such bad shape).
I finally got around to figuring out the casting date on my block. It's a 350 from 1975. According to the chart it came out of a c20 van.
Right now it's billowing white smoke. I'll figure out if it's a blown gasket or a cracked head, or what. If it's a blown gasket, i might fix it and limp around on that thing for a while. If it's something more serious, I think I'll yank the whole thing and buy a new crate.
Last edited by 66bowtie; 11/01/2007 4:37 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 101 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 101 | I agree that taking it down to a rolling chassis is a good idea I also think it is good to do it in stages. For me first I pulled the motor and will rebuild. Then I will remove the cab (intact with nearly everything in it) and the box. I will then clean paint repair anything deal with the frame including brake systems etc. Then I will put the engine in run fuel lines and other engine components. Then I will put the cab on and redo the interior. Finally the box. Doing it phases like this allows you to go at your on pace. But this is me. Remember enjoy yourself and pictures pictures pictures. | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 920 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 920 | I am lucky to have a neighbor who is a master mechanic and an absolute whiz with classic vehicles. He has pretty much guided me over the last 3 years on what to do with my truck and has insisted I do it one sub-project at a time. I'm SO glad I have. I might get more expensive than what you may be planning on. I had done the basics first to make it driveable(rubber parts, fuel lines, radiator cored and new hoses, new wheel bearings, brake job, tune -up, oilchange, new battery and cables, oil lines etc...) Then I added dual exhaust/new mufflers. Then came the tranny rebuild and added O.D.-very expen$ive. Then rebuilt wheels and good radials. A full gauge dolphin instrument panel, and lastly HEI. I'm currently building a 261 stroker and am in the planning stages of new disc brakes and suspension rebuild. I'm already in for 9k and it will be about 16k by the time the engine, brakes and suspension are completed. And that is doing a good portion of the work my self and farming the rest out to my neighbor and a host of local good old boys who know their stuff and are relatively cheap.(Another bonus of my well connected neighbor mechanic). Remember I haven't even got to the body or interior. I am also lucky to have started with a well preserved truck w/ a pristine original interior. It has a not bad/not great $300 12 year old paint job that was done in Wyoming by my fathers friend. It is the original color and was an exterior only paint job. No body work was needed. Anyway, the morale of the story is I would strongly suggest this approach as it has worked well with a yearly budget and you get to feel and see the improvements one at a time. Also a LOT less clutter and confusion. And then all your mechanical stuff is done and tested before it's time to paint. Last but not least, I haven't been without use of the truck for more than a week and I've driven it to several shows and a host of short and long road trips over the last 3 years. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | A good rule of thumb about the time it takes to finish a project:
Bed off - Cab left on - keep suspension - keep motor - keep rear end - paint exterior and rebuild interior= 1 year to 1 1/2 years.
Bed off and rebuilt - Cab off and new wiring and gauges - new suspension - new motor - new rear/gears - new interior/glass - paint everything = 2 years to infinity.
Everyone has a different amount of time and talent to put to the job so take all this with a grain of salt.
~Jim
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 24 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 24 | Thanks for everyone's great advice. I think I'm going to keep her running as much as possible. The first two priorities are brakes and a new gas tank. I put up some pictures today. Take a look if you feel like it. webshots
Last edited by 66bowtie; 11/05/2007 8:31 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats | | Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 | Welcome to the Bolt.
Based on my experience: Take the money you think it will take and double that. Then take the time it will take and multiply by 4. Once you accept that, start the project. Try not to get shipfitters disease.
If this is your first project, take Builders advise. Start with small projects. My advise would be Suspension, Brakes, drivetrain, front sheet metal, then body and paint, followed by interior.
This way, you have reasonable milestones as well as a vehicle you can use between steps.
An never have 4 projects going on at the same time....ever......especially when they all catch shipfitters disease(I am learning this one the hard way...)
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
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