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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 64
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 64
Alrighty then shipmates, I've got the 283 out of my 1958 Apache (the engine is a 1964). Rings are bad, heads (valve seats) shot, needs new valves, cam still has a lobe or 2 left, though. Anyhow, I decided not to rebuild it but instead buy a remanned engine locally.

My question is: How will I know where the timing mark ahould be when I put the Harmonic Balancer / Vibration Dampener on the end of the crank? Is it keyed or something?

If I don't put it on in the right position, I'd never be able to get the timing set correctly would I?

There's gotta be some kinda way to keep a step or two ahead of Murphy's Law on this. I'm hoping that one of ya'll can help me.

Thanks for any help.


Bodega Bob
http://www.submarinestore.com

Where's my tin foil hat?!?
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,200
J
'Bolter
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Posts: 5,200
Yes it is keyed to the crank. You still should check your balancer before you put it on and again after. The first thing to check is the rubber insert between the inner hub and outer ring. Make sure its still where it should be and not working its way out. Make sure the outer ring is still where it should be and not walking forwards or back towards the engine. Check the keyway for cracks or damage.

Once you think its OK to use go ahead and put it on. Never-never-never hit the outer ring trying to get the balancer on. Use a stud, nut,and washers with plenty of lube on the threads, and pull the balancer into place. If you must drive it on with force, only do so with caution, and only hit the inner hub area.

Also, once you have it installed, you should really check it for correct timing. The outer ring can move and often does causing incorrect timing.

You can rent a tool that screws into the #1 sparkplug hole that stops the piston from going to the top. You must use extreme caution and only use hand tools to turn over the engine once you install the stop!!!! What you want to do is turn the engine, by hand till the piston hits the stop. Mark the balancer with a marker at (0) on the pointer. Now reverse rotate till it hits again, a full 360 degrees the other way. Mark the balancer again at the (0) on the pointer. You now have two marks on the balancer and the actual timing mark should be right in the center of the two. If its not the outer ring has moved. Now you have two choices, one replace the balancer, or two, mark a new line. Eather way, your timing will be dead on.

I just bought a rebuild balancer for my 250 for $45 plus shipping. You might check around, they are cheaper then you think. Joe

Joined: Jan 2005
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Hoo Yah! Thanks Joe!

I will probably take your advice & put a new balancer on the booger. I haven't yanked the one off the old engine & didn't have the new engine to look at - it's still getting dark WAY too dang early! (Be nice to have a garage again one of these days)

Anyhow, thanks. It's been more than 25 years since I enjoyed the pleasure of wrenchin' around under the hood & this forum has sure come to the rescue!

I appreciate you squaring me away on this. Dang shame I don't get to use a big hammer though!


Bodega Bob
http://www.submarinestore.com

Where's my tin foil hat?!?
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
Your rebuilt engine should come with a new one on it. If it doesn't, I would question the quality of the engine. If I'm wrong, I would order a new one to go with it anyway, I wouldn't put anything that's 40 plus years old on a brand new engine, that is supposed to dampen vibration, not cause it. Just thinking out loud here,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!

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