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#245775 07/11/2006 10:17 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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Hey everyone, new to the forum. It's my first build, and its a restoration of a 1949 Panel Van. I'm having some trouble with the rear floor I'm hoping someone more experienced can clear up.

I removed the center planks, but the planks under the wheel tubs wont come up. The plank is pinched or sandwhiched between the tub and the rear frame rail. The plank is notched to allow for clearance, which means the plank wont slide out sideways. The notched area catches on the frame. Its an odd problem, and all I can think to do is jack the body off the frame a little. It is not a 'frame off' and that sounds like a pretty extreme remedy. Any ideas?? Thanks!

Former Glory - 1986
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v732/trevorware/panel%20work/panelsmall.jpg[/img]

March 2006
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v732/trevorware/panel%20work/PIC01215.jpg[/img]

Restoration
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v732/trevorware/firewall.jpg[/img]

#245776 07/12/2006 4:51 AM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Welcome to the Stovebolt!

I don't know exactly how to solve your problem.

I think I'd loosen the body bolts and lift the body a little. If I remember right the floors are installed before the body is put on the frame so it may not be possible to get the planks out without cutting the planks or lifting the body.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
#245777 07/12/2006 6:11 AM
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Wrench Fetcher
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I read the thread about the suburban body mounts. Is it the same for Panels? How many mounts total should I be looking for? There are the obvious two at the cab front, but I am having trouble locating the others.

Thanks for the quick response also. This forum is a God send. I didn't expect to find anything like it. All you Suburban guys are making me jealous!

#245778 07/12/2006 10:35 AM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,249
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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Two right behind the doors. Two in front of the rear axle, two behind and two at the very rear.

#245779 07/12/2006 10:36 AM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,249
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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BTW, you should be able to see all the bolt heads from up top.

#245780 07/12/2006 9:38 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks MN - By the way, even if I don't remove the cab, would you guys recommend replacing the mounts?

#245781 07/13/2006 1:32 AM
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
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After 50+ years, those mounts have been compressing, wearing and getting squished. I'd replace 'em.

#245782 07/13/2006 4:48 AM
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Ditto.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
#245783 07/14/2006 9:14 AM
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Wrench Fetcher
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Ok, so the front mounts are obviously a piece of cake. As for mounts 3&4 and 5&6, these are the wood blocks that are under the metal bars running under the rear floor? those account for 50% of what is holding my body to the frame? Scary! I'm having trouble locating the most rear mounts.

Also, is the aftermarket mount kit wood blocks, or are they updated with rubber or something? I'd be interested to know if there is a suitable replacement for those carriage bolts. I ended up grinding off the tops of about 3/4 of them because the square holes were rounded out. Perhaps a carriage bolt with an allen or star center for holding them while backing out those annoying square nuts? I guess I'm really asking if anyone offers a high quality aftermarket bed fastener kit? Thats a lot of pieces to locate individually. Thanks all!

trevor

#245784 07/14/2006 10:11 AM
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Posts: 4,249
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
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The only one I know of who sells a Suburban / Panel body mount kit is Chevy Duty ( now American Classics?) They come with the wood blocks. I suppose, if you really wanted, you could put in some steel tubing blocks. As for removal of the bolts, I found the easiest way was to ping the center of the head with a center punch, use three bits to progressively move up in size until a 3/8" bit broke the head off. No grinding, no rounding of the washer. I suppose you can put a different bolt in instead of the carriage bolt. Don't know if they make button head allen drives that big though.

#245785 07/14/2006 1:02 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
MNSmith,

What is the part number for the Suburban body mount kit from Classic Parts of America (Chevy Duty)? I cannot find it in their new on-line catalog (very nice system) and my hard-copy catalog is a few years old. Here are the 8 rear Panel-body mounting pads.

Tim

#245786 07/14/2006 6:43 PM
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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My bad. Jim Carter. Part # CBK156

#245787 07/14/2006 8:43 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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When I hear center punch, i think leather tooling. What tool are you refering to MN? Thanks for the assistance!

#245788 07/15/2006 1:01 AM
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Shop Shark
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oksoda .i got your e-mail. it looks like the wise ones ( grin or :rolleyes: )have you well in hand. tom


I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it!
#245789 07/15/2006 2:38 AM
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,249
Quote
Originally posted by OKSoda:
When I hear center punch, i think leather tooling. What tool are you refering to MN? Thanks for the assistance!
Like a nail punch. A punch with a point. For easy centering of your drill bit.

#245790 07/15/2006 4:30 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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Posts: 14,522
speaking of bed mounts I thought I would throw in this idea to you all. When doing my 37 I did use the wood blocks (nice idea though to use metal tubing) I found an old fire hose from a volunteer fire dept. These have a couple layers of "fabric" on the outside of a "rubber" inside. They make very good pads or cushions to sit the blocks on and it will help to cut down on the noise or squeaking etc. Anyway, it works great for me and I plan to do the same on my 52 panel.


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#245791 07/15/2006 8:00 AM
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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks everyone! Got all the body mounts out and used a floor jack to get that cab end up a bit and the boards slid right out. Also, looks like I just decided to go frame-off. Seeing the body up like that sold it for me.

#245792 07/17/2006 9:22 PM
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4
'Bolter
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OKSoda If you decide to pull the body off do a search and reread past threads on the subject. Not hard to do but if you dont have a lift handy it takes some planning to be done safely. One word of caution though is once you roll out the chassis your mind says while I have it out i should a) sandblast and paint/powdercoat frame,b) if I do that I will need new brake and fuel lines, c)since I am doing all this lets rebuild or upgrade engine,transmisson, drivetrain d)a IFS would be nice and ..... Please don't ask me how I know this!! Good luck


Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison
Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle."-Abraham Lincoln


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