The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk rephrase my question - front brakes from Huck to Bendix?

Has anyone on this Forum converted their front brakes from Huck to Bendix?

I have already read the Tech Tips, but on another Forum they claim it is not as simple as depicted in the Stovebolt Tech Tips. They refer to splitting the Huck hub away from the drums and using the original hubs. They also say that the center hole would have to be enlarged.
This is why I am asking to hear from anyone who has actually done the conversion.

Not me.

I have done this many times. The above link is correct, except it is the bottom holes in the spindles that need to be drilled to 1/2". If you use Bendex drums and hubs you will not need to mess around with any drum/hub work. Both styles use the same wheel bearings.

Thank you Dave! What about changing the flex hoses, did you find that necessary? Mine are new.

The hoses have the same thread at the cylinder, so no problem.

dunno if this will help or not, but check it out:

Front Huck to Bendix Brake Conversion Procedures

by: Mike Klepp


http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/FrontHucktoBendix.htm


-W

Thanks I have and that is where the confusion comes in. He mentions splitting the drum/hub and re-using the Huck hubs. He also mentions enlarging the center hole. This is why I asked anyone who has done the upgrade exactly what method I use.

since you have the complete front brake assys inc hubs, just mount to the front axle with new king pins, why worry about splitting them and using part of the huck set up?

You must know what I have!!! Have considered that but my king pins are almost new. Good tip tho!

Olblu, the flex lines are different but yours will work. If I remember correctly the difference is where the hex part of the steel connection to the wheel cylinder is. On the hucks the line came straight out at a 90 and the hex part was right next to the thread to go into the cylinder. On the bendix the thread outlet at the wheel cylinder is more at a 45 and the hex part of the fitting was moved up about an inch from the threads to get it away from the backing plate. It is a matter of convenience for getting a wrench on them. I ran Huck type for a while and was able to get them off and on without a problem. If they were stuck, I believe it would be hard to get a tube wrench on them.

Thanks for all the tips.