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#227167 02/14/2007 5:22 AM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 21
K
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Can anyone help me locate a source for a new drag link (tie rods and the sleeve) that will fit my 62 K20? None of the usual online retailers carry this part. The PO put a nonadjustable link on the truck - it works - kinda - I can't center the steering wheel and it turns farther to the left than the right.


I wouldn't recommend drugs, alcohol, and violence to anyone...but they've worked well for me.
#227168 02/14/2007 5:35 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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don't expect to find much 60's stuff listed at "usual retailers" on the net, but if you go to a good auto store, NAPA or such, they'll have most parts listed for ya

but no point in spending money that won't fix the problem! your problem isn't due to the drag link, which only fits on the shaft in one exact splined position, they're all "non adjustable" - see the 'steering box - non-truck related' post in the greasy spoon

tie rod is a different thing tho, for adjusting the toe in/out, don't try to fiddle your steering wheel that way

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
#227169 02/14/2007 5:47 AM
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K
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I'm definitely confused now! How would I go about centering my steering wheel? Since the wheel is 'off-center' and it turns further one way than the other, it seems to me that the drag link it currently has is too long (and should have an adjusting sleeve). Browsing through my parts catalogues, the link that's in there looks like a part for an earlier truck.


I wouldn't recommend drugs, alcohol, and violence to anyone...but they've worked well for me.
#227170 02/14/2007 6:05 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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oops, sorry! I was just talking pitman arm and didn't pay attention :blat: grin

still, the drag link isn't the place to center the wheel, and I don't think there's an "adjustable" one the PO swapped out, at least I don't remember 60's trucks having adjustment there, but I don't have a manual for 60-66

you need to work between having the wheels centered without the steering wheel on, and maybe with the pitman off, and if everything is right with front alignment, you should be able to get the lock to lock close to centered when the wheels are straight, then put the steering wheel on in the proper orientation

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
#227171 02/14/2007 6:10 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
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You have the right idea - an adjustable drag link is what you need in order to correctly center the steering wheel and, when centered with the drag link properly adjusted, the number of turns of the steering wheel in either direction will be the same - stop to stop. In addition, the steering wheel will be centered, or very close, half way through the entire run - stop to stop.

There are three ways to approach this chore.

You can go with two female tierod ends and make a rod threaded on each end the proper length to work for your application. One end of the rod will have to be threaded with a left hand thread. That usually stops most unless you can resource a way to get a left hand thread made for you. Another thing you can do, and probably the easiest, is get a tie rod, cut the center of it out and weld it together at the proper length so you have a "short" tie rod which will now be your drag link. Finally, you can use the drag link you have and grind the "keys" out of the pitman arm so that it will go onto the steering box shaft (pitman shaft) at any position you want it to go on the shaft. With that approach, you can set the pitman arm in the proper spot to center up the steering box and the steering wheel.

I don't care for or endorse the last idea, but it can be done.

Every steering box is a little different and through experience with the front ends on Chevy trucks, I have found that if you want it set up the way it should be, and from your post I see you do, the best way is to make it the way you need it to work for you and do what you want it to do.

A good source for tie rod ends is ebaY. They are on their quite a bit. Another place is your FLAPS.

Joe smile


"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!"
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Now cruising in the Passing Lane
#227172 02/14/2007 2:50 PM
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Have you tried disconnecting the pitman arm from the steering gear shaft and turning the steering wheel all the way to the right and counting the turns as you turn the wheel to the left, and then bring the steering wheel back to right half way and put the pitman arm back on. After doing this you should be able to turn the wheels the same amount to the right or left. It sounds like someone had the pitman arm off and did not put it on in the original position.You should not have to have a adjustable drag link


Life is like a roll of toilet paper, the nearer the end the faster it goes.




1949 Chevy 6400
1931 Chevy Firetruck



#227173 02/14/2007 5:25 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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some more thoughts on this, kcwelshans
you say the PO put a "non adjustable" drag link on .... I don't think any drag link is adjustable, but I don't know about 4x4s

have you tried as 31,2,3 suggested to check steering box centering, then also taken off the steering wheel and reset it so when traveling straight the spokes are in the right orientation?

how far off of 'even' is your steering wheel movement? is your K truck a 4x4? has the front axle been replaced? is it still positioned properly and secure?

does anyone know if from the factory the steering box position is always exactly centered?

I'm not sure about the 60-66 trucks, but the 55-59 trucks have physical stops to prevent the wheels from contacting the frame or steering components, and those can be adjusted, maybe your truck is simply turning farther one direction cuz the stops are off?

I hate to see ya modify something that doesn't need modifying and that may lead to disaster one day on the freeway .... if it ain't broke, don't fix it, if it's broke fix what's broke!

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
#227174 02/14/2007 5:45 PM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,195
J
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You may need to unhook the the drag link to center the steering wheel and gear box. What you are looking for is the true center of the gear box, and to see if the steering wheel is bolted on in the correct spot. The steering wheel should be splined and only fit one way, but you never know what can happen in the life of a truck.

Once you have true center of the gear box, tie the wheel in place with rope or the seat belt to keep from turning it. Hook up the draglink and check the spindle arm for center over the axle. The joint where the draglink and spindle join should be centered on the axle when looking down from the top. All straight axles are set up this way. Its a easy check to see if the right parts are installed.

With only two tie-rods theres really no adjustment that can change the way the wheels turn. A modern car or truck with four tie-rods can be adjusted to center a wheel, but not two!

You are on the right path with the draglink, just don't try and make a adjustable one, steering is one of the items you don't want to mess with for safty reasons. Joe

#227175 02/15/2007 12:55 AM
Joined: Nov 2006
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K
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Thanks to all for the great advice. Tomorrow afternoon I will get out in the garage and see if I can make some sense of it. The truck is a 4x4 and the stops are not the limiting factor when turning the wheel. So...if it's not supposed to have an adjustable drag link, then the only explanation for my steering wheel being (way!) off center aside from the possiblity that the drag link is not the right length is that the pitman arm is clocked incorrectly. I haven't had the pitman arm off, but I assumed it could only be clocked in 90 degree increments like my past Jeeps. It would make sense to have more adjustablity though. Any thoughts?


I wouldn't recommend drugs, alcohol, and violence to anyone...but they've worked well for me.
#227176 02/15/2007 12:58 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
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C
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see although this is for AD type it may be useful to you

http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=22;t=003275#000016


Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

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#227177 02/15/2007 1:31 AM
Joined: May 2006
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L
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Ok, here's the deal on old solid axle 4x4s. You'll actually have 2 adjustments, one for total toe (tie rod) and one for steer ahead (drag link). When doing an alignment on one of these solid axle type frontends, first the total toe is set to spec using the tie rod adjusters. Then the steering wheel is centered using the adjuster on the drag link. This is assuming that the pitman arm had been correctly installed on the box. Most '67 and later 4x4s have both adjustments.
If you're needing to replace the drag link with the adjustable type, you might be able to use Moog #s ES2027L, ES362S, and ES2026R to make an adjustable link. These part #s are for a '71-'72 model year truck.
Napa alos has a listing for this part http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=RPC&PartNumber=27769&Description=Drag+Linkhttp://partimages2.genpt.com/partimages/246392.jpg


Bill Burmeister
#227178 02/15/2007 1:54 AM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,557
B
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kcwelshans,If you end up needing front end parts.There is a place called rare parts,if they don't have it,they can make it.You can't buy direct from them,you have to have your local parts house call them and order.here is a link,some of my suspension parts for a 1966 c20 chevy came from them.

http://www.rareparts.com/


1951 3100 Chevrolet
1951 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall
Image
"A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams."
"Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything"
"If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"
#227179 02/15/2007 4:41 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
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I think LMC truck has what you're looking for,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
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#227180 02/16/2007 9:31 PM
Joined: May 2006
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L
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When I checked Napa and also Advance Auto, both came up with the same part. It seems that they source the part from Rare Parts, might be a little less if you can get it from the source.


Bill Burmeister
#227181 02/17/2007 12:03 AM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,557
B
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Rare parts, only sells to parts suppliers.Unless you can set up an account with them,I doubt they will.


1951 3100 Chevrolet
1951 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall
Image
"A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams."
"Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything"
"If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"

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