The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk who has replaced hole cab floor

Looking for someone that may have replaced the hole floor section with the reproductions or has any body have any luck with the section panels and are the over seas better then the local panels

What years?
Scott

I replaced the whole cab floor on my 46 including the foot panels behind the pedals. I made my own because I needed to have clearance with a slight transmission tunnel and made a steering column coupler for the floor since I wanted to keep my stock steering column. It isn't very hard to do. I did not worry about making it super pretty because I will be putting sound deadener on it and carpet over it.

You can make it pretty much how you want with some sheet metal, a welder and a bead roller.

I've used section panels and why most don't agree I think the overseas sheetmetal is just fine for a cruiser, but not for show and tell.
I learned though that sometimes it's easier to cut the panel to fit just the area that needs replacing rather then cutting out perfectly good original sheetmetal just to fit in the new panel May sound like a waste of metal, but it works for me.Zipper has the best idea of making your own pieces, but I'm not that good at that.

On the 60-66 era truck that I'm redoing now, there's a couple of different floor configurations. Mine is a 4 speed truck and the patch panels are for the flat floor trucks. I had to cut and modify quite a bit to properly install the new piece, but it looks brand new now.

I replaced the floor in my AD era truck with flat 10 guage sheet metal. They are quite a bit easier to replace than newer trucks,
Scott

This would be for a 51 Chevy 1/2 ton and I need to replace the front floor section and toe board and saw were they sell the hole floor section.

David...
I replaced my floor on my 53. Got the parts from Truck and Car Shop. Came in (2) halves, left and right. Covered the floor in front of the seat and the toe board. Drew hit the nail on the head when he said to cut the new patch panels to fit the truck. Try and keep as much original sheet metal as you can. Also, don't forget to brace the cab before you start removing original sheet metal or it will shift on ya. You can check my webshots for a picture trail of what I did with mine. Shows how I braced the cab before I started cuttin.

Hoped this helped.
~Ron

David...
I just realized you're all but my neighbor. Just a hop, skip and a jump away from me.

~Ron

I replaced my entire floor in my 53 1/2 ton .I found a complete pan at Monroe antique swap meet for $5.00, good thing I had my trailer. After that I ran into a fellow in Hope ,BC and he had a floor pan still attached to the rear of the cab for $50.00.I saved the pan and traded the back section (cab corners were good) for all the braces under the box boards.I live at the swapmeets, so far I've found every rust free panel for my 1/2 ton ,including fr and rear fenders, box,gate,doors for under $300.00.Prepped for paint and driveable (350/350), I'll be into my truck for under $1,000.00.The only problem is ,it'll be another year to three before it's finished.My time for working on it is very limited.I'm still looking for a drivable one ,so I can drive one now.

I covered a couple of holes in my cab floor with some tin and maybe an extra license plate or two.

Ron
Hi neighbor, very good pictures and work. Were you pleased with the panels that you use? How close to the original were they?