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Labor Day

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#220067 11/20/2006 12:05 AM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 183
O
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 183
I'm right in the middle of replacing the window regulator which doesn't work with a new one. When we took it out, one of the rivets is covered by the part with the teeth. I can't seem to move the part with the teeth because the regulator is not working. Any suggestions? What's the best way to put the new rivets in without the right tools?

I also was trying to put in new hood springs to replace the piece of wood. I got one in but just can't get the driverside one in. Is there any trick that works?


1958 Chevy 1/2 ton Apache Stepside Longbed
Never trust a driver with a collision shop courtesy car
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#220068 11/20/2006 12:35 AM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 679
T
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 679
I don't have answers, but I'm watching for them. I hope to have the same work in a year or so and would probably ask the same question you are.

Bill

#220069 11/20/2006 1:51 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
that window regulator question is unclear - can't you cut the rivets from the other side? once you rip it apart, the teeth should move - best way to repair those things is replace the whole works

there ain't a "best way" to do something wrong! if you don't have a way to swedge the rivets, use short screws

for the hood spring, grab the loose end with a pair of vise grips and brace yerself - might need someone with more pull to get it grin

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
#220070 11/20/2006 8:08 AM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 183
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 183
My friend ended up cutting 2 of the 3 rivets and it moved so that worked out. The new regulator sorta fits in the place of the old one. I'll vice-grip it and hammer then ends of the rivets so they mushroom. Hopefully that works. I guess if I mess it up I can buy the whole thing. My friend wanted to use short screws so we might go that way too. We've had so much rain with wind that too much rain was blowing into the cab through the open window.


1958 Chevy 1/2 ton Apache Stepside Longbed
Never trust a driver with a collision shop courtesy car
Photo Album
#220071 11/20/2006 5:29 PM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 35
D
Apprentice
Apprentice
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 35
Hey Blue, just a thought here, but Sears sells a pop-rivet set that has an assortment of rivets, some with close tolerance heads. Again, just a thought.


If practice makes perfect, and nobody is perfect, then what's the point of practicing???
#220072 11/21/2006 1:44 AM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 183
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Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 183
Thanks DearthVader - I should have done that. After doing this I'd recommend buying the whole thing instead of just the crank part. We assembled it and realized the part with the teeth wasn't connected to the crank and couldn't unless we took it all apart again. Sawed off the ones I did and redid it with small screws and nuts. The piece with the teeth covers one of the rivet spots so its impossible to do anyways. I put it all back again and the window goes up and down.

One problem is that when I lower it to its almost lowest spot, the window tilts to the outside of the door. I'm not sure why. I have to yank it back into position.


1958 Chevy 1/2 ton Apache Stepside Longbed
Never trust a driver with a collision shop courtesy car
Photo Album
#220073 11/21/2006 7:02 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,953
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,953
I used pop rivets when I put the cover back on mine. I checked the shear strength of the steel rivets in my aircraft mechanic handbook and they showed it would be fine. You can always get soft rivets and pein them with a punch.


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Sedgewick"
In the Gallery
1989 Caprice

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