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#209042 06/05/2006 1:14 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 237
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 237
1958 1 ton dually with 8 x 6.5 bolt pattern. Hub centered 19.5" rims.

So I was able to break free the 8 nuts (front wheels) that look like the lug nuts I've removed before on cars. I know these are not lug nuts, cause it's a hub centerd rim. When those where all free, I was not able to remove the rim. I banged on it with a minor amount of force, but no go. What am I missing?

#209043 06/05/2006 10:52 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
Common ocurance on the duallys. Spray it with a penatrant. Turn the wheels sharp to one side & get under it with a really big hammer & hit the wheel from inside.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
#209044 06/05/2006 11:56 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
I
Member
Member
I Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
Yes this is a very common problem with these old trucks. Spray the outer hub are with PB Blaster, dont be shy about it. I ussallly put a jake between the frame and the back of the rim, and give it a little pressure. Hit it with a good size maul where the tire meets the rim. This rim is about 5/16" thick at the hub center, so theres a lot of area that will be holding. I've also used a port-o-power instead of the jack. Just push againtst the back of the rim, release it, then turn the wheel to a new place. Ussally come off pretty easy after saoking and some pressure is applied.


Jeff
1947 Chevy 6400 2-ton
In the Gallery
1953 3/4-ton
In the Gallery
It was fun while it lasted
#209045 06/06/2006 12:31 AM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
We use a 10 pound sledge in our shop for this problem. Give it a good whack, then rotate the wheel 90 degrees and repeat until the wheel comes off. Leave 1 nut on loosely sp the wheel doesn't fall completely off for safety. Don't be shy about hitting it either, like I tell the young guys I work with-"Hit it like your'e gonna kill it". When you put the wheels back on, put a light coat of anti-seize compound-Permatex is good-on the hub and centering flats. That will help keep them from seizing on. Make sure that you have the truck supported on proper capacity stands when you do this, get the 5-ton or better stands. Well worth the cost.


Bill Burmeister
#209046 06/06/2006 3:37 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
Hit it like it owes you money,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
#209047 06/07/2006 12:52 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 237
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 237
Thanks guys, that did the trick.

My front drums have what appears to be a spacer on them. I am assuming to space out the front wheel due to the offset of the rims necessary for the dually's in the back. Yep... these are locked down tight also. I got the nuts to loosen last night. Tonight I'll put back on the rims and get to hammering with the sledge again to break the spacer free.

To break old tractor rear tire free you loosen the nuts so a little gap is present, then go drive around in figure 8's. Works every time.


Moderated by  Gdads51 

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