The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk A Towing Question

I have a Ferd F150 that I pull an 18' auto hauler trailer with. I have a Class III hitch on the truck. When I slide the receiver bar into the hitch, it has a pre drilled set of holes to install the lock pin thru, then you can continue to push the bar in farther, and there is a second set of holes (maybe 3 " from the first set". By adjusting the receiver bar in to the second set of holes, of course moves the trailer about 3" closer to the vehicle. I cannot see a lot (if any) difference when pulling the trailer with the '56 on board. Any ideas on which may be the best set of holes to use?

I guess I would keep it shorter if it were up to me. I would think it would put less stress on the hitch.

another towing question, can a guy tow succesfuly a 59 half-ton from bc to manitoba usuing one of those ball hitch type a-frame, like on jeeps?i would be using my 200o z-71.would i mess up the rear-end on the 59?

Brian

In most cases you are better off with the hitch as close to the towing vehicle as possible. It also depends on how the weight is distributed on the trailer.

Andre

If the rear has the proper level of gear lube, the rear should be okay. I would recommend disconnecting the drive shaft. Not sure on the 59, but the earlier tranny had problems with lubrication without the forward shaft rotating.

I'm not big on pulling pickups on dollies. Usually the dolly isn't up to the task. You will need brakes on the dolly. If you're going over the mountains, I would highly recommend a full trailer. They're a lot easier to control.

If you have a standard equipment trailer, I don't think it is going to make much difference one way or the other, Brian. You're dealing with a static load if you are trailering your '56, so it won't affect towing performance too much.

Now, if you are hauling a long car or truck that hangs over the leading edge of the trailer so you can still pull the ramps up, you may need that extra clearance. Those extra three inches in length may give you a little squeeze room when backing through a turn. Otherwise, I'd keep the trailer closer to the truck.

Andre - I'd vote for a trailer too, but if you're gonna drag it on it's own wheels, for sure disconnect the driveshaft, and it's a good idea on a long tow w/ a vehicle in unknown condition to open up the rear drums and remove the brake shoes - broken bits rattling around in there can snag and shoes dragging can start a fire - be safe - where you gonna be in BC?

Bill

Great reply's, and yes, keeping the trailer closer to the truck would relieve stress on the hitch--that is the way I will do it from now on. (Note: Thanks to Hotrod Lincoln for your PM on this subject. Appreciate it!)