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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 153
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i've totally removed the screw inside the window crank and tried prying and tapping it with a hammer but i can't get it off. is there a pin, ring or something else i need to remove to get this crank off my 53 gmc?
thanks


Overland Blue, 1953 GMC 1/2T, 100-22, 228/1bbl, 4sp/4.10 6v, shortbed/fender side/5-window.
Joined: Feb 2002
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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what year? the type w/ the set screw don't have any other keeper unless some PO added something, which you should be able to see - should be able to pry under both sides at once and get it, just be careful of bending the panel behind it

try rolling the window all the way up and see if the crank can be forced [gently] further, then go all the way down and repeat - if the gnurling in the handle or on the shaft is messed up it's prolly just snagged and you might get it to shift a bit and loosen

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
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My 62 just has a set screw and it pulls right off. You may have a bit of rust holding it on. Yank that sucker!


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'Bolter
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When I pulled mine I took out the set screw but the handle would not fall off. So I took my pry bar and tried ending with a resounding crack. Seems someone drilled a hole thru the handle boss and the knurled shaft and put a nail thru the hole. The nail didn't break but the knurled end split and I was in trouble. Luckily I found another regulator and pulled the knurled shaft and pop riveted it in place. Yes the rivets are strong enough in the shear. The window regulator mechanisms vary from 1950 it seems. Teeth and such.


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
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thanks guys, that's what i thought too, but it won't come off. i don't wanna break it but i might have to. appreciate the replies.
tony


Overland Blue, 1953 GMC 1/2T, 100-22, 228/1bbl, 4sp/4.10 6v, shortbed/fender side/5-window.
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Shop Shark
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Mine had a set screw on top of another smaller set screw. Took the first one off and looked real close and saw another one down deep. It must of kept loosening and the PO tapped another screw in to back it up. May want to check it out.

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Wrench Fetcher
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Like shipwright said, check to make sure there isn't another set screw below the first one. If not, with the set screw removed, spray WD-40 or some other rust remover down the set screw hole and wait about 10 minutes and try to evenly apply pressure on both sides while trying to remove the handle.
If all else fails remember this, a window regulator goes for about $75.00 new, whereas a window handle runs about $7.00. So be careful not to mess up the regulator.
I once had to get two pieces of 1/4 plywood about a foot long, paper towels and two long screw drivers and laid the paper towels across the door panel to protect it, then the plywood over the towels across the door panel vertically, then sliding the long screw drivers between the plywood and window handle on both sides at the same time to remove a stubborn handle. Worked for me, good luck.

Joined: Aug 2004
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Shop Shark
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Not sure about trucks but the 40s/50s pasenger cars have omega shaped clips that come of easy with a special tool.

[img]http://www.eastwood.com/images/us/local/products/detail/p537.jpg[/img]

It can be done with two verry small screw drivers but it is a pain in the A...!

It is almost impossible to remove the crank/handle with the clip on unless you ruin something (blood/sweat /tears - Job) wink

Check chevs of the 40s for the right tool for your year. It is only a view $ and worth every cent.


Frank


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